To cut tape: To cut thread: To flush cut Thread tags:
Forum: rodboard

Seaguide offers a Fuji KLH style frame that cost a little less and is high quality. You can still get Alconite in KLH frames frames from Fuji. The newest ring material that Fuji offers is called Torzite and they are very proud of it $$$. My gude trains for something like that would be KLH 20, 10 and 5 with KB 4s and KT 4s runners and a 4.5 or 5 tip top.
Forum: rodboard

Order all the guides you can afford in the size for your most produced rod. Sometimes you can get them on sale in larger lots like when Fuji discontinued Ti frames and Alconite rings. They had them on sale everywhere and I stocked up on the sizes I use the most for my specific inshore builds. Tip tops can be bought for the specific blanks you use with the guide train used. I know what I build on
Forum: rodboard

Nothing is stopping you from using all single foot guides. Double foot snakes are lighter than single foot guides and are more efficient at keeping the line straight passing through the guides. In order to reach that same efficiency, more single foot guides need to be added and that adds weight to the tip section as previously stated. That weight, although ever so little, is still more and will c
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Use REC Cerecoil guides . Agate are junk and add too much weight to the rod.
Forum: rodboard

Stan, I take a 2" PVC Schedule 40 cut to the exact length of the longest section and use duct tape to cover the top and bottom. I have a suitcase or duffle at the length in question and have traveled all over the world with this set up. If you put caps on the ends, it usually too long to work.
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Tom, I actually did that and have not gotten anything back from them yet. I will do it again and also try calling them. Lance
Forum: rodboard

I get the Ti frames and they have held up well. Great quality guide.
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Mark, This is what I am talking about. I have seen them on fly rods but not really anything else commercially. You can bend these down to the blank and it won't hurt them.
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Mark, My concern was if the rings will pop out or even crack, because that is all they really are, just rings held in by spring steel (alloy). I don't think I will fish it enough to wear out and the heaviest line I intend to use is 50 lbs braid. I know when I first saw them at a fishing event, they were bending them down and sideways and it did not look like the ring would pop out very easy. Tha
Forum: rodboard

What do you think about REC Cerecoil guides on a light offshore casting rod (conventional reel) for fish up to 100 #s? I really don't care about the price and know there are cheaper alternatives but I don't build cheap and want something that is different and will function very good. Has anyone got experience with these guides other than strippers for fly rods. Have you used them on "heavy b
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The business model of NFC is great for rod builders. We can get one of the best blanks made at a fraction of the cost of retail. They are American made but in an area where business enterprises are overburdened with government interference. For whatever reason they have left the sponsorship I hope it is not an indication of a greater problem. If more companies operated like this we would all bene
Forum: rodboard

Locking wraps are not necessary with micro guides or any guide for that matter. Having said that, I have been using a locking wrap for about 6 years. Made a lot of micro guide rods prior to that without issue and if the guide got damaged it never fell out but still had to be replaced.
Forum: rodboard

7' ML Point Blank is good and will rocket a light lure. I also like Phenix K2 TX-713L-S-B very sweet blank or the NFC P703-1 (HM LMX). Can't go wrong with any of these.
Forum: rodboard

The way I test new built rods is with the lightest lure that it will cast to the heaviest. Within those lures there will be sinking, slow sinking or suspending and top water. That way I can tell how the rod will perform and what it might be best for. Before I build it I have an idea of what I want it to be, and I use my past experiences to get it there. Sometimes, especially with a new type of bl
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This would be a meat large lure rod for offshore up to about 100lbs fish like ling, kingfish, dorado, small sails, snapper, triple tail, bull reds and Tarpon. Off the beach and jetty for shark and bull reds live baits and large lures. In the tropics large snook, snapper, rooster fish, wahoo and grouper. I am only wanting to cast about 100' when needed (not building a distance caster) and paddle o
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I am putting together my first offshore / inshore larger species rod and am looking for ideas on guides, reel seats, grips and butt. The blank is a limited edition (according to Bill Batson) 7'9" green resin color finish RX6/E Glass RCLB79M (.630” butt and 7.5 tip). I want something I can fish off a boat, beach, jetty or pier that can also cast. The reel I am looking at is an Accurate Furry
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Cork is also lighter. Not sure if that is an advantage.
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I will make this very simple. There is no need to sand the feet of of a 5.5 Fuji KB or KT guide. It is already small enough not to cause a problem.
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The stainless framed Fuji KT guides with an Alconite ring are lighter than the equivalent sized Minima guide.
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Seaguide makes titanium hook keepers.
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I am with Billy on this one, they will all yellow. It is just a matter of how much you can put up with. Looking at the photos the yellowing is in the thicker parts of the coat where you would expect it to be from UV light. It will be more noticeable because there is more material to yellow than the thinner coating on top of the guide foot. Another thing to consider is that chemical companies that
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One piece reel seat and grip? Is it doable?
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With silk, it is actually more transparent than nylon. If you want it to not darken and become transparent then use the CP. You may want to do a test piece with and without to see what you prefer. If you grind the feet of the guides and you do not use CP, you want them to look symmetric because you will be able to see them through the silk. I like the color silk turns without CP, it is totally di
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The first coat applied thin and fast. Spinning the rod in my wrapper at about medium speed apply the first coat. After setting cut the tag ends if any. Apply second coat just turning the rod by hand. Fill in and shape the epoxy getting it even with the brush. You are not really brushing the epoxy on but just using the brush to even it out. Spin it about 9 to 12 RPMs to set the finish. May need to
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I second the Alps for saltwater.
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Your problem is as Phil stated. The epoxy must be thoroughly mixed in order to set properly. Humidity is not an issue with epoxy setting. You need to mix slow and methodically, trying not to make too many bubbles, mixing from the bottom outer edge of the mixing cup and moving in circles to center and repeating. You are going to make some bubbles but that is not that big of a deal. The epoxy will
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I have the Brother P-Touch Desktop Label Printer (PT-P700). The labels are a little stiff but you can use any font and even insert JPG files on them, so you can make a really custom logo. There are a few tricks to making them look right and application. I have only found white letters on clear background making it very limited as far as color goes. Not sure on the PX 400.
Forum: rodboard

Your guide train will work fine on both blanks. You also can use tape on the KT 5 and 4 mm size guides, I do it all the time. You just have to cut the tape in thin strips and you will have about half the foot exposed. Once you wrap up to the tape, remove it, the guide has enough wraps to hold it in place till you get the rest wrapped. On a 7 foot rod I use 9 guides and a tip top and for a 7.5' I
Forum: rodboard