Option 1) A quick fix is to put tape around the outer rim of the locking spool to keep it from backing off. 2) If you like to tinker, by all means go the Roger way, you will have a first class setup. 3) Send it back and get this:
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Titanium will not corrode in saltwater. It is, like most metals, susceptible to MIC (Microbiologically influenced corrosion).
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LMX (Lamda Beta) 9' 8wt / F-890-4. 10 guides; Used Seaguide 16 RS Ti frame (80"), 10 RS Ti frame (68"), REC Double foot snakes #5 (57 7/8”), #4 (48), #4 (38 ½”), #4 (30 1/8”), #4 (22 ½”), #2 (15 ¼”), #2 (9 3/16”) and #2 (4 ¼”). I did this spacing to have 4 guides on the tip section and used #2 to lighten that section, you could just do #4s to the tip. With a natural cork grip the weight
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These refinishing of rods will be a great way of getting your wrapping down. I would go with the same guides that are on there, just for this purpose. Changing the height and size ring of the guides will effect the current performance of the rod. In my opinion, if you change the height and size of the guides then you will also need to change the placement and amount of guides. When doing that, th
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Any of the above mentioned blanks are good and could be what you consider the best fly rod you ever built. I prefer NFC especially for the price, although I don't think you could go wrong with any of the other blanks mentioned. It's like shooting at the ground, you can't miss.
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I am very familiar with the FTU green rods. These are typically baitcaster rods in medium / medium light power and fast in action. The blank is light but the grips are composite cork so this is where the weight is coming from. I take it that this is not a custom build but bought directly from FTU. Also, the reel seat maybe adding weight. If I use a NFC P703-1 blank cut down to 6’9”, use natural c
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They are fast and are definitely not heavy. I really like mine, have made about 5 fly rods from the LMX blanks. I would compare it to something between a Sage 1 and NRX. I think you will like it if paired with the correct fly line. Does not feel as heavy as the TiCrX. Have not done the 7 weight or a 10 footer. You should be able to cast 80' with it and the right line if you already have that abil
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Here is what I use, just pull tension on the thread and move from side to side a little, then cut close to the thread wrap. The tension will pull the tag end back under the thread. Sometimes no matter what you do you will need to use a safety razor as Tom has stated. Sanding makes too much mess and the tag end will usually not be eliminated.
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SK for a spinning rod it is not very comfortable to cast all day, for a casting rod it's the cat's meow, makes the rod much lighter. If you build things already, you shouldn't have a lot of problems with rod building. Just make sure your epoxy is mixed well and apply thin coats over the wraps. There are too many techniques to go over but you are on the correct path. Your component knowledge is pr
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This is what everybody uses around here. They are like training wheels, and after you get acclimated to your kayak and the likelihood of rolling it over is diminished you can take them off. When first starting or in rough water (especially the ocean) you will want to use them all the time.
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Been using the G Loomis version of this blank for a long time (HS7600-1) and am sure it can do what you need but you can't go wrong with the Rainshadow blanks.
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China marker in white. It will wipe off cleanly.
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If you are wanting to put a decorative trim band on the male end, go ahead, but make sure it is far enough back not to interfere with complete insertion after it wears down in the future. Be consistent with each one as far as progressive spacing so that it looks right. They are not necessary and I do not use them on my NFC fly rod builds.
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If it is a spinning rod go for the one with the smaller butt, Super Nimble Minnow. For a baitcaster do the Super Shore L.
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North Fork Composites (NFC) HS-7600-1 (IM) & HS-7600-1 (HM). 75% off listed price for 3 or more blanks. Stock up.
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Thanks Robert. So the guides cost about 20x what the blank cost. That is a heck of a bargain and an ice rod is the perfect application. Sounds like fun.
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Martin, You have opened up a can of worms here, you are going to get all kinds of intellectual theory about rod guides, placement and amount. It would be best to know what type of rod you are building and what blank you are using. With that information I can tell you (and most of us on this forum) exactly how many guides I would use and why. Best Regards, Lance
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > "Flor" is just an example of a word for high > > quality cork. There is no standard definition > for > > it. Large voids in cork are detrimental to > > shaping it and of course, do make it lighter. > > Cheap cork has a lot of small holes that will > > eventually
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PVC Tube with end caps that have foam lining. If you also use this in combination with a rod sock or cover, you should have no problems. I just throw it in the back of the bed and can go anywhere. Does not hurt to tie off pvc tube with rope to bed loops.
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Cork is not lighter than foam core carbon skinned > grips made as instructed by the inventors. We have > the data to prove that. > > And, the more voids and pits a cork ring has in > it, the lighter it will be. > > The other thing to keep in mind when buying cork, > is that there i
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I put the stripper just in front of my reached out hand were I am going to grab the line to strip it in. It is a custom rod, so make it custom to your reach. I will always mount the reel seat, butt piece and grip first then after it is ready to accept the reel, mount it, put the blank pieces together; then see where to mount the stripper according to your reach. If it is for a customer, do it to
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I usually cut the loop off anyway and use a nail knot on stiff mono about 4' to 5' in length (the diameter will depend on the size / weight of the fly line) then bloodknot a 2.5' smaller stiff mono with loop on the end of that piece and loop to loop tippet section about 2'. Lays down the fly nice. I just change out tippet sections when they get too short without having to tie knots using the loop
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I buy flor grade cork and make my own. I only use 15 minute low viscosity clear epoxy to glue the rings together then shape them on a lathe. I use a course bastard file to rough shape the cork then finish it off with 100 grit to 250 grit and a final with 320 grit. A 7" grip made this way will cost about $35 because the high grade cork is $3 to $4.75 a ring. Cheap cork looks cheap and has voi
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I believe the NFC decals are from Decal Connection. I need to put an order in for some more silver ones.
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I just buy the foam universal arbors and cut the lengths I need. I quit depending on the ones that come with the seats to fit. I have a whole bunch of undersized arbors that I don't use. Every once in a while I will find a use for them.
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I would say something to myself like "that's how God wanted it" and be pleased with the outcome. I am sure it will be the magic stick it was intended to be.
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Look at the Fuji Point Blank like the PB761XXHF or the PB761XXHMF for pulling bass out of reeds, grass and lilypads. For swimbaits, spinners etc try the NFC or AT Bushido blanks in medium or medium light fast action. Also try a shorter grip 9" to 10" measured from the butt of the rod to the rear anchor point on the reel seat and see if that works for you dry fit. Although the Fuji blank
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NFC P703-1 (Lambda LMX), Fuji PB701LXF or Phenix K2 Spinning Blank, 7'1", 3-10lb, TX-712L-S. These are on the high end side but they will serve his purpose.
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This is what you need to put rod components together. >Rod drying motor and rack. (most recommended tool) >Reamer or set of reamers. (large, medium and small) >Rod Wrapper with a means of holding the blank stationary to hold tension on thread. (V Cut shoe box, homemade stand, store bought wrapper) Ask Roger about making one, he is an expert on the subject. >Tape Measure and /
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It's good set up but I think if you apply your finish on your rod wrapper then move them to set on wall mounted dryers above your wrapper it will save you a lot of space. I would set up a small lathe on the opposite wall to turn grips. For color on the walls I would use a light green color to suppress reflection from the walls and use direct lighting where needed. Those long power strips that you
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