You were obviously able to log in using both of your usernames , William Scott Hunt, III (this post) and Scott Hunt (previous post). Pick the name you want to use by clicking on your blue highlighted username shown in the post. This will give you your userprofile, at the top of this is a button termed control center click on it and you will be able to edit your profile. I do not know how you woul
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I have bought and used the rear rear casting grips of both brands, and they are almost identical in appearance an performance. The CFX grips are very uniform in length, and I have noticed some variation in the length of the NFC grips but not a big deal. With the 1/2 price sale going on now, the NFC grips are less expensive and thus represent a better deal. At the same price it would be a toss up.
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I have replaced many, many guides on Duckett rods, and their guide wraps are not painted. If you are replacing broken or pulled out guides use a NoCP white thread, or for the Ghost rods use a NoCP grey. I cannot remember the thread number for the grey thread, but you can call Duckett and they will give it to you. The NoCP threads look like they have been painted, but they are not. If you want to
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Place your stripper guide about 20-23” (51-58 cm) in front of your reel. Place the first running guide 3.5-4” (9-10 cm) from the tip top. Then progressive place the other guides between them. I like to increase the distance between guides by 1 cm for the first few guides and gradually increase this distance as you get closer to the stripper. Once the guides are taped in place, run your line from
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The point I was trying to make is, when objective terms like AA, IP, and ERN are used to compare rods and the person you are talking to has no idea what they mean, then you have to explain them in subjective terms which the person does understands, such as fast and slow or heavy and light. Even-though these terms lack precision they still have meaning when used within a defined context. So the te
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If I told a customer that the blank he wants has an action angle of 71 degrees he would probably say Uhh what the heck are you talking about! I would probably reply by saying it means it has a relatively fast action, and I’m sure he would say Oh OK. So subjective terms work when trying to describe something in relative comparative terms. The terms fast, moderate, and slow action, are similar to
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Here are the common cents numbers for the MHX fly rod blanks. Norm
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For my 7’ bass casting rods I mostly use 9 guides and on occasion will use 10. I like to use a size 10 stripper, which in my opinion is not too high nor too low, and is the size that Fuji recommends for both NGC and KR casting rods. Norm
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I have made fly rods using both MHX and RodGeeks blanks, and MHX blanks are a little faster in action and tend to give a little bit more line speed. They are both very nice rods, just depends on what you like. As far as casting and spinning rods, really do not have a clear favorite. The RodGeeks C2 blanks and the standard MHX blanks are very similar when comparing blanks with the same ratings.
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MHX blanks are also a great value, not nearly as many color options though. Norm
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I just built a Rod Geeks metallic red bass rod for a friend today. They are great blanks for a good price and you can get them in almost any color you want. Hard to go wrong with them, Norm
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The Flex coat adhesive can be used in a hot melt gun. In fact Flex Coat has a video using a hot melt gun. Not all hot melt adhesives are crated equal. Some have high bonding properties others lower. Get some and test them. Over the years I have tried many different ones, and there are definitely different grades. Case in point, the thermoplastic adhesive that is used to hold guide feet to a blan
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There are different grades of hot melt glues. Most of the stuff sold in hobby shops melts at lower temps and are not as strongly adhesive as the high grade hot melt tip top adhesives which are specifically sold to strongly adhere tip tops in place. I have tried some in the past and they do work but I have found them to be inferior to the Flex Coat hot melt tiptop adhesive. The Flex Coat tiptop ad
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Get Bit has them. And so does Utmost. Norm
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Thomas - I have used all of the blanks named above, and the Point Blanks are one of my favorites, I did mention Point Blanks as an option in my first post above. I total disagree with you about them not being in the same league with the others. They are great blanks, very light with a unique feel that I really like. I do not use Phenix K2s any more after a couple of them exploded in the hands of
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Ray - He wanted a10” full length all cork handle with a specific diameter on all of them; he did not not like the split grips or their diameters. He also disliked the recoil guides and wanted KR guides and a hook keeper of my design, which I had used on some other rods I had built for him. He knew exactly what he wanted and was willing to pay for it. I should mention that the NRX rods were fairly
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A tournament fishing friend of mine had me strip down and customize his 5 NRX Rods to his liking. There were a number of things he did not like about the off the shelf NRXs once he started fishing them and decided to have me redo them. He liked the rebuilds, but it was a very expensive way to get a custom rod. He likes the GLoomis rods produced by Shimano but their blanks are not available to rod
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I keep my PG bottle inside an airtight jar containing some desiccant and store it in the fridge. Lasts a long time stored this way. When needed I pour a little PG into a small mixing cup. I don’t use it directly from the bottle. Norm
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Permagloss and Lumiseal are both moisture catalyzed polyurethanes. Basically they harden due to the humidity in the air. Thus, they need to be kept in an air tight container or they will harden in the bottle. Norm
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Just click on Tom’s name and his email address will be shown. Nor
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I have recently stripped several Veratas blanks in the past few months, and used a utility knife as a stripper. Hold blade at 90 degrees to the blank and scrape, this will quickly and efficiently remove the paint, with the paint coming off in little curlyques, similar to planing wood. I then use fine steel wool, or a scotch brite pad, to remove any residual paint streaks. Finally, I wet sand the
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I do not like using epoxies for installing tip tops, I only use hot melt tip top cement. If you ever have to replace the tip top, it takes more heat to break the epoxy bond than to melt the hot melt tip top cement. This extra heat may cause problems damaging the tip of the blank. Depends on the epoxy being used. Norm
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Click on your name, and your user profile will come up. Then click on ‘show all posts’. Norm
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Thomas, the 3.75” rear grips where part of my order and they shipped yesterday with the rest of my order. I should get them in a few more days. I was curious as to how they compared to the CFX carbon fiber grips. They look very similar and at $6 the price was right. Norm
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I placed an order on 4 July evening and it was shiped today via FedEx. My Oder contained various HM MB blanks and several carbon fiber grips, but no fly rod grips. Yes they are still in business, and appear to get orders out pretty quickly. Maybe the fly rod grips are a low volume item and it takes time to them back in stock. Have you tried calling them? Norm
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When I first bought TM1 I was hoping it would be similar to the old Gudebrod Hard ‘N’ Fast, but it was not. TM1 is much more viscous making it harder to apply. I do not see any real advantage to using TM1 vs epoxy except for very quick turn around guide repairs. Norm
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Another opinion might be to get some B’n’M rods and rework them. They are quite inexpensive and used by a lot of crappie fishermen down in my neck of woods. Norm
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MHX used to have 2pc 9’ and 10’ crappie/panfish rod blanks, but they have been discontinued. You Could check with Mudhole to see if they stilll have some hanging around. If not, check with Utmost to see what price you can get on 2pc Rainshadow RX6 9’ 6 to 8wgt fly rod blank. They work well for crappie and you should be able to get them for somewhere around $50. Norm
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You did state that TM1 works the same as PG and LS, this is what I replied to. If I misunderstood this then I apologize. I did not mention anything about applying a heavy coat of PG, I apply very thin coats to the blank by wiping/squeegeeing it on using a saturated cosmetic sponge. I do agree with you that TM1 requires multiple thin coats, and I also added that one should give sufficient time be
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No! Threadmaster 1 is quite different from PG or lumiseal, it is much more viscous and more difficult to apply. PG and LS are both organic solvent based, very thin, and are catalyzed by moisture in the air, so moisture makes them harder. I have observed for TreadMaster 1, If you wait too short a time between coats or apply too a heavy coat you get a rubbery finish that turns milky when in the p
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