You can use either the KL16H, KL8H and KL5.5M, or the KL20H, KL10H, and Kl5.5 M reduction train group. In my opinion, the KL20H based reduction train will give you a little more versatility if you want to use a larger reel and/or heavier line, and it will not affect performance with a smaller reel and/or lighter line. Put 20 to 30 braid Into the calculator, and it will up the reduction train
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Nope you used the wrong GPS, use the KR GPS. Norm
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I agree with Michael a KR concept with a KL20H based reduction train will work extremely well with your rod blank, reel size, and line size and type. It will make the rod lighter, and thus both more sensitive and responsive than the guides you planned on using. On your rod the 20H stripper (or butt) guide will be about 20” in front of your reel spool, and the choke guide or (first runner) will be
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There is absolutely no doubt that Roger is a tremendous asset to this forum. He has helped a multitude of people to design and build very functional and customized power wrappers. Norm
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The double foot guides you selected are way to heavy for the medium powered rod you want to build. I would certainly rethink your choice of guides. If you are using braid and want the best performance out of your rod I would choose a single foot KR concept guide train. If using mono or fluorocarbon I might go with a NGC guide train. If you go with a KR concept, don’t order the KR guide kit offere
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I don’t understand your guide choice. If doing a spinning rod, the 3rd guide from the butt should be a reduction guide and would have a higher frame than the guide shown in your picture. What’s the rod blank length, and what reel and line sizes are you using? Also what type and size guides are you using for your layout. Norm
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No problem bass fisherman use 60 # braid with rods rated much lower without any problems. Norm
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Do a locking wrap to make sure the guides stay in place. Norm
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The MHX SJ9000 is very similar to a hot blank. In fact MHX used to make a HS9000, which was exactly the same as the SJ9000. I have made rods on both. The SJ9000 makes into a very nice rod that will easily cast light jigs. The fast tip loads nicely and yet there is a lot of power in the butt section. I think it will work very nicely for what you want to do. If set up as a KR spinning rod using lig
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The major component of the regular Heet is methanol, and foruso-Heet it’s isopropyl alcohol. Don’t know the percentage of alcohol present, nor what other compounds they contain.. DNA is not that expensive in comparison, so that’s what I would use. Norm
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To my understanding, the Fuji stainless corrosion control frames are not painted, coated, or plated. They have undergone certain types of chemical treatments, one of which includes an acid passivation treatment. This passivation treatment removes the the iron molecules at the surface exposing the chromium and nickel ions of the alloy which form stable oxides making the surface ‘passive’ to corro
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I don’t do marbling, but many have marbled rods using oil based pigments such as marbling pigments and the settled pigments from enamel paint mixed with finish epoxy. The epoxy will harden with no problems just slows the cure rate somewhat. I have also used these oil based pigments as well as the powdered pigments to even tint Permagloss, with no problems with curing. I would never paint a blank
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Never used chalk before, but sounds interesting. However, I have used the marbling pigments you get from Mudhole, the pigment from Testor’s enamel paint and powered paint pigments you can get from most hobby shops and art supply stores. All work very well, just remember a little goes a long way. I’ve do like the powered pigments. Norm
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Fazlite is a new type of hard aluminum oxide material that has hardness, thermal conductivity, and bending strength properties intermediate between Alconite and Concept O, both of which are also types of aluminum oxide. It is sort of an upgraded version of the old Hardloy guides, and this upgrade gives them the strength to be deep pressed into the new K guide frames. They are a very nice guide w
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A few companies did publish the CCS values for their blanks, and they include NFC for all there blanks, PacBay only for the Quickline series, MHX for their fly rods, and Point Blank for all their blanks. This CCS data is currently only available for MHX fly rods and Point Blank at heir respective websites. A lot of this previously published CCS data has been archived and is still available. No
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In my experience, ProKote is slower curing and gives a slightly softer finish than ThreadMaster. Some people, such as Billy Vivona, use a mixture of these two at a 1:1:1:1 ratio to get a curing time and finish that is intermediate between the two. Both are very good finishes either alone or combined. I like and use ThreadMaster because of the faster curing time. In addition, the ThreadMaster res
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Two companies that make parabolic slow pitch or slow jig blanks are: Blank Hole - Rainshadow Revelation - Norm
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I’m like Phil Erickson, I turn the rod toward me with the spool behind the blank and the thread coming over the top. I also wrap by hand, a power wrapper just slows me down and gets in the way. In addition, I sit in one place and move the blank, rather than the blanks staying in one place and me moving. I have no problems adding a different thread for inlays. To each their own, and this has worke
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I agree with Lance, swinging fish into a boat with any UL is a disaster waiting to happen, no matter the tip size. Norm
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Get Bit has a 25% off on Phenix Blanks, it ends on Thursday 11/21. Call them to get details. Norm
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Jim’s sugestions are top notch. Two of my favorite blanks. Norm
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I have built on all of them except the Suzuki, and all are very nice. However, I personally prefer the MHX UL Blanks, they are a great buy. The Rainshadow Revelation ULs are also very nice and a good buy. I agree with Michael and prefer a longer UL rod in 6.5’ to 7’ range. When you make your rod be sure to use KR concept guides with a KL16H based reduction train. Norm
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James - Has Rainshadow ever thought about doing CCS measurements on their blanks? I think it might be a helpful selling point to a lot of rod builders. I have used a lot of Rainshadow blanks over the years and have been very happy with them, but I still have to guess when buying new models as to what I may be getting. Norm
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The last few Point Blanks I bought, were really quite smooth to the touch, and none of the Point Blanks I have handled were as rough as the X-rays. I certainly agree with you, feeling them in person is the best way to go. All the measurements, numbers and descriptions mean little until you actually hold a blank in your hand to know for sure if it’s what you want or not. Otherwise it just guessi
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I don’t know if you have ever felt a Point Blank, they do not have as rough a texture as you think they have, the X-RAY blanks are much, much rougher.. I have both the X-ray and Point Blanks as personal rods, both are very, very nice. I just prefer the unique feel of the Point Blanks and their casting abilities, But that just me, everyone has different likes and dislikes, and they are very subje
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I have never used the aluminum soufflé cups sold by GetBit, in fact I can’t seem to find them on their website. I use the aluminum mixing dishes sold by both MudHole and Anglers Workshop. I have never had problems using them straight out of the package. If fact, I reuse them. After mixing my epoxy in one, I use the the unused epoxy in it to let me know when it has set sufficiently enough so I
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I use a small bernzomatic micro butane torch. It is instant on and off and you can direct in any direction you want. After mixing my epoxy I flash flame it with the torch and the bubbles instantly disappear. When I say flash flame, I mean quickly, zip zip, pass the flame over the epoxy a few inches away and watch the bubbles disappear. Takes just a couple of seconds. After applying the epoxy I ma
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A long full length cork grip can get to be quite expensive at $3 to $4 an inch for relatively decent cork rings. One of the reasons that split grips are so popular. Anything between the butt grip and rear grip is basically wasted cork. On a 10’6” rod the grip will be rather long and will depended, as Herb mentioned, where your hands fall for a comfortable two handed casting stroke, and this len
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I have not built on the new Rainshadow Testament blanks so I know nothing about their power and actions, or how they compare to the Eternity or Immortal series. I do know the ETES68MF had an Intrinsic power of 455 gm, so if the TESS610MXF is similar in power it might not be powerful enough for you. I also know that the Immortal blanks are more powerful than the Eternity blanks for the same power
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How about the Rainshadow RX8 XST1082F, or the RX7 IST1082F. Norm
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