If you like the guide style and sizes used on your previous rod then use them again. Place the stripper about 20” in front of the reel. Place the first runner about 9 to 10 cm from the tip and progressively fill in with the other guides to get a good starting point. Static test and test cast to fine tune the spacing. I would use about 10 guides total on that rod and you could get by with 9 tot
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Size D is easier to wrap than A. For the same length wrap there is very little difference in weight or strength, and once finished they are hard to tell apart apart, especially with black. You can certainly use size A trim with a size D main wrap. Good lighting is important, and for me reading glasses are quite helpful. Norm
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Happy you liked it. It’s not hard to make a great performing rod. Never tried a Diawa Steez, maybe one of these days.o Norm
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I don’t think there is an advantage just another way to do it, I just like the way it looks, but that’s just me. Norm
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In the finished position, looking for the guides to follow the bend in the blank.
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There is absolutely no problem in cutting the threads back on a reel seat with a hidden thread hood, because there is no fore grip glued on the blank to block the hood from moving forward. The fore grip is is now glued to the hood and thus is moveable and can actually move beyond the end of the threaded barrel of the reel seat. Same principle are a no fore grip handle. I love hidden thread hoods
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Yes. Put the hidden thread hood on the reel seat screw it all the way down and cut off the threads that protrude above the hidden hood tube. If you have already glued the cork, Eva or carbon fiber sleeve in place then remove the hidden thread hood from the reel seat and cut back the reel seat threads until the hood no longer bottoms out. Easy enough to do and will solve your problem. Norm
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Most like to rotate to the handle side to keep the guides off the deck when the rod is laid down with the reel handle up. Others rotate to the opposite side because it gives a more balanced look. Your choice. As far as off setting the stripper, it just a matter of winding line on the reel and seeing what happens. I tend to off set in the same direction as the spiral. Norm
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Flexcoat lite is a good finish, it is a thinner finish and normally requires a second coat. It has a fairly long work time and takes a little longer to cure. ThreadMaster high build is more viscous, has a shorter working time, cures quicker than than most and can get good coverage with one coat. However, I will do a second coat if I don’t get the coverage I like. Hitena is a little thinner than
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Yes. However, you can do a spiral wrap in a number of different ways. In addition to the simple spiral, you can do a more gradual spiral to the bottom. I like the 0, 60, and 120 degrees to180 degrees layout. The spacing stays the same. I will offset the stripper a little if I get line piling up on one side of the reel. Play with it and see which you prefer. Just temporarily attach the guides in
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I also use Hitena and like it a lot, I find it has similar characteristics to ThreadMaster regular another very nice epoxy finish. As Tom mentioned all of the various epoxy finishes do a great job, you just have to find one that best fits your style. Norm
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I have never met a rod blank that doesn’t bend progressively. I do a static test and move guides here and there depending on the rod bend, but still get a progressive spacing. Basically what progressive spacing means is closer together in the tip section moving farther apart as you progress down the blank. The tip bends more and the butt less. Each blank has its unique bend profile which should b
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Is it possible that it’s applied wet? Might be more supple that way and shrink tight when dry. Norm
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Let’s get back to helping the OP on upgrading an old rod. We have gotten way off target. Christian, hopefully the reel seat on the Laguna was just loose, if the blank was in fact twisting you have a serious problem with that rod. Check it out and let us know what’s going on. Hope we didn’t scare you away. Norm
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Keith, you lost your progressive spacing when you neared the stripper. David is correct your KW5.5 needs to be further away from the stripper. If I read your measurements correctly your stripper is about 137cm from the tip top. To fill this space with 10 guides you need to place the guides in the tip section closer together. You need to understand the tip section undergoes more bending than the b
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I also have my stripper at 20”, but 21” should be fine. If you like the way it casts then go with it. The butt section on that blank is not going to do a lot of flexing. Norm
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There are a number of variables that control casting performance, weight is just one of many. An entire set of Minima guides weigh about 3 gms the size 25 ceramic SV stripper weighs more. By reducing weight you allow the rod to load and unload more efficiently. In addition, line control by the guides is also an important variable. The rapid choking and control of the line coils coming off a spinn
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I guess you have never done a good rebuild. I have told this story before but I will repeat it. I use to have an old UL that I build using the old style SV ceramic guides that were available at the time. I did not like that rod at all, felt very sloppy. After the KR concept came out and I discovered how well it worked I began experimenting using the the PacBay Minima4 M and F guides in a KR-like
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The upgrade is not necessarily in appearance only. You can certainly enhance performance by the choice of components used, especially the guide train. Norm
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I have used both the Elixir 7’ and 7’6” UL and they both made into very nice rods. The reason for getting them is it is difficult to find ULs in longer lengths. They both had a nice crisp feel and casted light lures very well. They did not have a sloppy feel about them, which I dislike. I had no complaints with them. However, I keep going back to the MHX 7’ UL as my standard, I like them very muc
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Once I tied the KR concept I was sold, the best I ever used. Norm
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Paste epoxy will work fine and will help fill the ridges in the reel seat for a good bond. Norm
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Upgrading old rods can be quite rewarding and educational. The secret to doing a good job is to take your time and use common sense. For example cut the thread on top of the guide foot so you don’t cut the blank. Be extremely carefully if you try to cut off a reel seat it can easily lead to cutting and damaging the blank. In many cases, the reel seat does not have to be removed in order to repla
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I have used several their elixir series of ultralight blanks and they make into very nice UL rods. Norm
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I have used most brands of thread, including PacBay, and have not had a fuzzing problems with any of them. They are all very good but different brands have different shades of color and I buy and use them because of this. The four brands I use the most often are Prowrap, Fuji, Hitena, and Gudebrod, but my supplying of Gudebrod dwindling. I also like the fact that both Prowrap and Hitena sell a
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You got It! Very easy seat to install. If it doesn’t go all the way down, you can ream slightly from the rear to get a good snug fit. Norm
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I agree with Tom, I prefer Permagloss as a top coat. Extremely easy to apply and is very durable. Norm
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Check out the CCS database on this site. There is a section that lists CCS data on a lot of fly rods. Norm
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Christian - I would probably use 9 guides total, which would be 1 guide more than the KR GPS recommends. I do this to get get a more progressive guide layout. Concerning KB vs KT guides on spinning rods, I normally use 2 KB guides after the KL5.5M, and 4 KTs in the tip section for a total of 9 guides. Use the KR GPS at Anglers Resource to get a good starting point for your layout. You can certai
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We visit Florida often, but don’t live there. Norm
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