Hobbiest. I have built 5 flyrods for family, just completed a casting and spinning rod for a charitable organization and have a request to do another for donation. I have a production rod I want to rewrap as a spiral and a bamboo that I have to get around to refinishing. I want to put a new seat on my first fishing rod that my grandfather gave to me a 30 or so years ago. So hobbiest by with a
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I use FlexCoat Lite for wraps and FC HighBuild for Marbling. I have good succes with both and spread them out after mixing.
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For Western Canada, try Rodbuilder Supplies, on the left. Andy has been very helpful in building my orders and getting them to me in a timely manner.
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Try that the other way around, a one inch pulley on the motor and a 10 inch on the driven shaft, for a a 10:1 reduction :)
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Steve: As an option you may look a measuring the length of the threads, and the extra length of the reel seat. It may be possible to cut off the bottom of the reel seat, bore out the part of the seat that is under the threads and then reattach the threads to the remaining seat. You would end up with a slighting shorter rod.
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Try this as a start. Then look at the Uni products in the flytying arena for chargable thread
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This discussion will help
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Have you looked at the Uni-glo thread from Uni Products?
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Some quick questions: What is your preference for action? Fast? Slow? Extra Fast? Is it for saltwater or fresh? What type of rod are you looking for? Glass, Bamboo, Graphite? How robust does the rod need to be? Banged around? Meticulously(sp) cared for? What are you going to be tossing and into what type of cover? How much line are you going to be carrying during the cast?
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What about replacing the tube on the top? From the pictures it looks like the frame is screwed to the tube and should be able to be removed. At that point, a little modification to the frame and a larger tube, may solve the problem. As well, ask the factory about getting one with a larger tube?
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I found a nail set that fit snuggly into the square drive, wrapped masking tape around the nail set and fiction fit the rod onto the nail set. This does require leaving the but cap off of the base of the rod until last. Chris
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Although they are not sponsors, have you tried wwdoak? wwdoak.com
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Try Lee Valley Tools Lee Valley Tools
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I have posted a picture of the thread tensioner that I built. The biggest help was to wrap the threaded rod with teflon tape. (plumbing tape) Rodbuilding
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I have purchased Snake Brand guides for a fly rod that I am wrapping, partly so that the amount of foot prep that I would have to do would be minimal. I appears that with the size one guides, as the get closer the to the tip, the edges of the feet will need to be shaped so that they fit on the blank. Is this usual? The ramp length looks okay, just the width would appear to be narrowed.
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For the G.Loomis site: ??
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Hi folks: I am starting to assemble a rod. The reel seat UL-3 is in a number of pieces. The top hood appears to press fit the spacer quite well. Does it need to be empoxied to the spacer? In the past I have not mounted the butt cap unitl last. Is this the best way to assemble the reel seat? The handle has been reamed to fit the blank. I will be applying the epoxy to the blank and sl
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Thanks folks All good suggestions. I will post pictures when it is done.
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I have assembled three rods in the past, all with chrome snake guides. I am currently in the process of assembling two more. One will have gold coloured single foot guides. The question is do I need to colour the the guide foot after prepping the guide? I will be using a nylon thread with no colour preserver. If I need to colour the foot, what should be used?
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