After more than a year the correct response is what rod? :)) With no contact info it is going to be tough. You are going to have to balance them forgetting where they took the materials vs any hit to your reputation. I think that adding a storage fee to the final build cost when and if they show up is a given.
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Not yet. I got the same message from Ian and was in his neck of the woods a couple of days later and could have picked up my copy :) but didn't make arrangements :)
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Try this:
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REC had just the components (no insert) for sale.
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If he has lost the broken tip, then you need to either make a new tip section or use the 6.5 tube. Titebond III will work. Use pins to hold the splits open, and then insert the glue. Once the glue has dried, use whit silk over the split to secure it. Coat the silk with varnish and it will all but disappear.
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Another suggestion for a tape to put on the bench:
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This sounds like picking a place and time and having an NERBS, Ohio Chapter, gathering.
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The direct link is: enjoy
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Ken: Randy "Putter" Parpart has a DVD on Marbling that I found useful. @#$%& on the left has it. Other suppliers will as well.
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I use two washers made from windshield washer fluid bottle, and use a wing nut in addition to the tension knob. see
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Here is one
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For those in the Great White North: I have finally had the pleasure of receiving Rod Builder magazine in Canada. I filled out my subscription just before the new year and recieved my first issue, with the Custom Rod Builder's decal, last evening. A very good read. Kevin's new processes for the mother of pearl veneers looks very interesting. The article on rod breakage is very informat
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Ken: When I do marbling, I start with fresh epoxy. Once the whole batch is mixed, I separate it into smaller batches and start mixing in the colours. I then apply the base colour to the rod in a thin coating. and let that turn for about 5 min. A that point I start applying the other colours. Personally I use Flexcoat Regular build. It did take a couple of attempts to get the wait peri
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Ken: A couple of questions: What finish are you using? When are you mixing your pigments? How long are you waiting to apply the non-primary colours? ie, how thick is the finish when you start the marbling process? It sort of sounds like the finish is too thick to level when you are doing the marbling.
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John: Don't forget that you can colour RodBond with pigments. I did this in a exposed blank reelseat. After applying the reelseat with coloured RodBond, I cleaned up the cutout with Methyl Hydrate(Methanol), and it looked like the seat was a perfect fit with no glue lines.
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Try asking here
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Another example. The shallower the ramp the easier to wrap.
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Robert: To work with the blanks that you have, it may be best to look at the Common Cents System to evaluating the rods. By comparing your blanks with finished rods, you should be able to determine a best use for the rods.
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If you have a lathe, look at blanks for making pens. They are usually 3/4 x 3/4 which could be turned to a reel seat. Or check with Reelseatblanks.com, a supplier on the left. They may turn one specifically for you.
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A number of years ago there was an auger style bit available that had and adjustable blade. It had a lead screw and was meant for use in a brace. I do not know if they are still available. I will try and get a picture of the one my father has.
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Russell: Yes they are. Look for some of the softer wheels. If I was to build another one, I would probably look at this type of wheel instead. This would allow easier overlapping on one support for the tip.
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To answer your questions as best I can. 1) Yes, Rod bond will work with the ferrules. Be careful when removing the existing ferrules as there may be a pin that goes entirely through the ferrules or just through one side. Clean the ferrules really well and inspect them closely before trying to remove them. 2) I believe that the rod is measure across the flats at the ferrule location for s
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If you want to make your own wrapper, look here for one that was done using T track. The rod supports were built with the track flush with the top. This required two bolts to align the supports. The tensioner was built with the track partially exposed. This allowed for the use of one bolt for securing the tensioner, by recessing the track into the bottom of the tensioner. Doing this fo
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A fisheye occurs when the finish pulls away from an area. It is usually caused by some sort of contamination. Silicone is one such contaminant, but skin oils can cause the same effect. Be careful what you clean the surface with as some solvents are no longer pure as they are made from recycled materials.
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A rotary tool with an abrasive cut off wheel.
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As long as the masking tape is enclosed in epoxy there should be no problem. The thing is to surround the arbor with the epoxy.
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One of the most important questions will be: At what distance will he be fishing? A different blank would be selected based on close in fishing,10-20 feet, vs 40- 50 feet.
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I have a pfleugar reel that has a foot that is significantly larger than another reel that I have. Both reels are for 5 weight lines. If you are unsure, test the reel and the reel seat before attaching the reelseat to the rod. If there is a mismatch, you could modify the reel foot to fit into the seat.
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Gary: Don't claim this as insurance. Arson is such an ugly label. :)
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For the finer grits, try the local auto supplier that has painting supplies.
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