These work nicely
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From the photo section..
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A clarification question. Are you looking for a multi-piece blank (greater that 2 sections), where the sections nest inside each other?
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Take a look at double edge razor blades as well. Sharper than the single edge blades.
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Do you make your own ferrules or do you purchase them? Do you trim the blank to compensate for the additional length?
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For those looking for back issues, check the buy/sell page
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Duane: I use an Olfa type retractable knife and cut though the whole roll. By leaving a couple of wraps on the rod, I have been able to apply the epoxy without the tape loosening up.
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Here is what I do. I cut the 3" wide tape into 1" widths. Wrap the tape onto the butt, creating an arbor that is larger than required. Unwrap and cut off enough tape so that the seat is snug. I use two arbors on a fly rod seat. Now mix the RodBond. Remove the seat. Unwrap the arbour until there are 3 or 4 wraps of tape left. Apply the eposy, forcing it into the mesh. once
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Yes. As long as you will have no need to remove the tip. 5 minute epoxy will hold, and allow you to remove the tip later.
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Mark: Ring magnets are available at Lee Valley Tools:
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Mark: I use a similar setup. I covered the threaded rod with Teflon plumbing tape to smooth out the spool turning. Setup: Threaded rod with Teflon tape Metal washer nylon washer spool nylon washer metal washer spring metal washer threaded knob Locking wing nut. See for a couple of images
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If you are doing a thin band, you can add a length of the the trim colour 3 turns before it is used, wrap the main colour up to the trim point. Now wrap the trim colour around the static blank for the number of turns. Now restart the main color, trapping the tag of the trim colour. After a number of turns, cut the trim colour.
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I tension the spool. I found that by covering the threads under the spool with teflon plumbing tape, the spool turns smoothly.
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Heat proff eposy is not required. Cork is an insulator. Put the heating elements on the hand side of the handle!!
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There is nothing you can do about the yellowing but, you could try marbleing all of the guides to have them match.
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Me too. Iroquois. Half way between Brockville and Cornwal.
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If your thread feed is from the top of the rod, it will want to climb out the cradle as well.
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I use the fibreglass mesh on rods that I build. I wrap the mesh fairly tightly to a diameter slightly larger than the inside of the seat. I then take off layers to the point that the bushings are just snug inside of the seat. Take the seat off and unwrap the tape until there are two or three wraps left on the rod. Now spread Rod Bond onto the tape that is on the blank. Wrap a number of turns
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Doug: You got it on the first try.
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The nurse will also then hold the syringe verticle, allow the air to travel to the needle end and then they will expell the air, allowing them to accurately measure the amount of solution in the syringe. I follow a similar method. Push the plunger to the bottom. Insert the syringe into the epoxy and withdraw the plunger, gathering more epoxy than I need. Turn the syringe verticle and allow
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Another good source for tinting pigments is your local paint store. If I remember correctly, this is the source that Randy uses for purple.
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One more tip. Keep the base colour coat thin. If it is too heavy, you will get continued blending for an extended period of time. Using Testors metalic colours will allow for translucent colours.
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Trondak has the 3CC syringes without the black rubber on the plungers. They also have a dealer locator.
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Tyson: Get a copy of Putter's video, it is available from one of the sponsors. I have tried both Flex coat Lite and Flex Coat high build to do marbleing and found the high build worked best for me. You may need to let the mixed and coloured epoxy setup a little before starting the process to keep the colours from blending too much ( I have waited as much as an hour with the FC Lite and 3
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There have been a number of suggestions recently about temporarily attaching guides to the blank. Everything from orthodontic elastics to cutting elastics and then tying them on to using small nylon zip ties to using RC fuel hose. The female ferrules will need to be protected. If the testing requires it them just attach the guide to the ferrule wrap.
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Contact Andy Snedden at RodBuilder Supply (a sponsor on the left.) He is in the Victoria, BC area. I have dealt with him a couple of times now .
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If you are looking for a tool to use shape the feet (other than a file or dremel tool) you might try reshaping a dart sharpening stone? Personally I use a rotory tool with a stone to shpe the outside of the foot and a chainsaw hand file to shape the bottom side.
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The rubberized butt rings that I have used are predrilled and come with a plug for the hole. I then cut off the tennon(or use it on the reel seat end to shim the reel seat), mount the cork grip to the blank flush with the end of the blank. I then find or shape a short piece of dowel to the size of the hole in the cork and the size of the end of the blank. This dowel is just used to center the
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And let them know that you appreciate their sponsorship of the site. By letting them know that you are dealing with them because of their sponsorship, you validate their cost in supporting this site.
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I just finished a match pair of casting and spinning rods with a conventional setup on the casting rod. I used SF fly guides on the casting rod, and due to the low ring to blank distance, I had to add an additional guide. When I was done and ready to hand over the rods, I noticed that the spinning guides were higher off the blank. If the number of guides is a concern, try using spinning guides
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