Unless you are wedded to a specific length, ferrule the bottom of the rod attach the handle to that. This will make for a longer and faster rod.
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Left at 4:30 and sitting in Scranton. Leaving early in the morning for the rest of the trip.
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Folks: This will be my first Rod Building Expo. Do some of the vendors accept credit cards at the show or is it all cash? Leaving Thursday night and travelling I 81. 14hrs will be interesting. Chris Richer
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Although it can be tricky to keep tension, cut a length of orange thread and wrap over it until you reach where you want the trim band. Then wrap the orange around the rod by hand. When you reach the end of the trim band, continue wrapping the blue. After 4 or 5 wraps, cut the orange. Only the blue thread would use your tension device and be wrapped by turning the rod. The orange would be wr
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I have been ordering from Andy at rodbuilder supplies as well. I hope to go to HighPoint in February. For some supplies, especially older Gudebrod thread, Try Angling Specialties. The worst part is I am about 15 minutes from a border crossing and still don't order via a UPS store :(
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The CustomTackle.com was retained by the original owner, but they are currently not doing any rodbuilding. There is a rumour that they will be starting an online store in the future, but I have not heard when.
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do a search on all dates for rodmaker magazine and canada. This will give you a list of people who are or were members here.
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I am :) I currenty build for myself.
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Check with the manufacturer. otherwise, automotive tints should work.
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Ross appears to be rebuilding rods for the most part. Try tinting the bonda seal, or paint with automotive bumper paint or krylon style plastic paints, then clear coat.
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Try Canadian Tire in the paint department, Creative Basics, walmart in the craft section, Visual Effects Custom Framing, jj hobbies. :) If these places don't carry it ask who might.
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Cut it into strips. I cut it into thirds. it is slightly adhesive so the fit can be fine tuned before cluing. When gluing put down some tape, cover with epoxy, filling the mesh. do another couple of turns and repeat.
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Try Krylon Fixatif. Two light coats. It is available at most art supply or craft stores.
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Yup.
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Cut through the reel seat, replace and then splice everythning toghter after the new seat is installed. This was discussed in the last couple of weeks with an enhancement of cutting at an angle to assist in alignment.
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Something is getting lost in translation. The two pieces need to connect somewhow. Does the tip of the rod slide over the butt? (tip over butt) Does the tip of the rod slide into the butt? (tip into butt, butt over tip) is there a section of rod that slides into either section where the rod is smaller that the each fo the sections?(spigott )
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Before you strip all of the guides, see if moving the lowest guide on the tip is out of line with the rest of the tip guides and tehn move it.
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Try here: Although they mostly talk about fly fods, they occasionaly discuss other bamboo rods.
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Michael brings up a good point. It hasn't broken yet. Putting the guide back in the same place will allow the foot to bridge the scratch, to some extent limiting the amount of flex at that point. If the inner sleeve can reliably be positioned at the scratch from the butt, you may not need to cut the rod at the scratch location.
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Look here: or here: for option on mounting a router to a table. By replacing the existing router base plate, and by mounting to the top of the table, you are not losing any bit depth.
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Check the bottom of the guide foot to see if there is a flaw that could have caused a scratch.
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This rod wrapper by Kevin Holt has always been of interest.
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Is it a cut or is the finish of the rod scratched? Can you see if the fibres have been disturbed?
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If you are going to use threaded rod to hold the thread spool, cover an rod threads that are under the thread spool with plumber teflon tape. This results in a much smoother rotation of the spool.
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What length and what weight?
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Tom: Would this be something you are interested in publishing?
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take a look here: You will need to decide if you want to user spigott ferrules or tip over butt. Both are going to change the feel of the rod. Is building on a new two piece blank an option?
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Take Tom's advice. Here is what was done on a commercial spigot ferrule rod in the late 60's early 70's. The brown is all thread.
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Long casts are not an issue for this rod. It will be used for vertical jigging :) I would not be adverse to 6` but the customer says 5'6". Once he tries this one I will talk to him about a 8' or 9' 3 or 4wt.
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