X 3 on Roger's suggestion (IMMS 610 MXF).
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For me spiral is ideal for BFS for a good reason : you can use fewer guide on top of the rod (same spacing as spinning set up), so top of the rod lighter and more responsive. I do test it cast as far as conventional set up. Best first guide Fuji RV6. KTTG will be adequate after the RV6 (or you can use one or two KBTG). I build one NFC MB 661-1 (HM) as stated and I can’t dream of a better
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You can start with a size #10 stripper then snake #2 and size #1 (one of each) then size 1/0 thru top.
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After a #12 a snake 6 seems big for me I use a 4 after a #12.
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Use your reamed EVA, no problem for me (I ream my EVA).
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Mine got a 4.5.
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Lots off question LOL For wrapping those micro this is what I do : - I dress the foot (very little work). - I place them using Fuji hot glue (red tube). - I pre wrap then using size D thread (I only do 6/7 turn near the eye leaving place at the foot). - I tweak the guide in the correct position (perfectly in line). - I then wrap them (easy to lose the D wrap with a nail to put it off)
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KT 4.5 with your setup and knot is fine for me (Torzite have greater inner diameter so you can scale down to 4). You will be surprised as how well this blank cast light jig ;-)
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Michel Schoenbrock Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The Affinity MX might be a > good choice though, but hard to get, maybe i´ll > find a reminder in some shop. Maybe i´ll contact > you for that blank, but not sure if that will pay > off since i am from Germany. > Michel I’m not far away from you and I still have one in 8’6" #4 (4p
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Mine is extreme (16H, 7M then 4 thru tip) but I use only light braid (PE0.6 and lower) and I use Torzite guides (inner diameter bigger). On this blank go with KL20H, KL10H, KL5.5M then KT4 or KT4.5. Runner size should be sized depending of your line an leader (an connection knot). A size 3000 reel is on the bigger side (I use 2000) but with the stripper (KL20H) at 23" front reel stem
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Skip the single foot 5 and 4 (use more 1 instead of) For this blank you can do 10 (stripper) 3 - 2- 1 - then 1/0 thrue tip.
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Don’t use only Fuji guides, you’ll kill the rod. Use light guides (Fuji as stripper is fine). Just my 2 cents.
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Michael Tarr Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The distance from the reel to the butt guide is > the thing to consider. For sure but only after you have set your reel seat place (so after grip length determined).
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Light tip but with huge power hard to beat Eternity ETES68ML (ETES 610MXF tip slightly heavier with less power in the butt).
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Tried once. Powerful for a #4. Nymphing with indicator ok (with a #5). Light Line Nymphing (European style) not at is best.
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Mine was as stated (1.66mm) so a the size 4.5 is OK.
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For the hood Fuji HPS
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Ridges on the X ray blanks are not so noticeable, may be a little more on the butt, you feel them dragging your nails along the blank but they don’t really impact your wrapping (at leasr guide wrap, I build simple and don’t do long decorative butt wrap).
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Drop shot make yourself a favor and test DS 721-1 (X-Ray), if you use lighter rig (say below 1/4oz) an de don.t need a lot of power the DS6107-1 is nice too (the Delta version had a little more power) and if you need longer DS 761-1 (HM). I know the MB 705-1 (HM) little upper rated (usually they are over rated), very very good stick (MB 733-1 X-Ray too, similar but for a little smaller weight,
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Minima 4 are lighter than Alconite (Minima M vs Alconite KLH) I weighted a lot ;-) For Alconite KT vs Minima F for isale inner diameter Minima are lighter than Alconite. So for my scale it.s not a rumor :-)
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Minima 4 are lighter than Alconite (Minima M vs Alconite KLH) I weighted a lot ;-) For Alconite KT vs Minima F for isale inner diameter Minima are lighter than Alconite. So for my scale it.s not a rumor :-)
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The nail knot is usefull for trim band on translucent wrap if you do want the tag ends to show through.
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I used a similar set up (Grizzly) with a drill (not cordless) for some year. Turn a least 100 grip and the drill still alive (inexpensive drill that cost me ten buck). So ....
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As stated earlier the #3 is versatile, go for it if you want the best of both world. For me a #1 tip on it would achieve in a very tipy rod, each is own but for me not a good idea
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One of the best ten footer (and I tested a lot). The #3 is more a #3/4. If it’s for light EN (say single 2.0mm up to 2.8mm bead head Nymph) go for #2, if you want a more versatile stick go for the #3. Light I need hand and not tip heavy (unlike lot of ten footer).
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In Fuj Line DPS is lighter than over, not so far but lighter.
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Or if you want all and
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Nymphing rod are the rage here some time now (France). They need (euro nymphing style not sight nymphing) to be a least 10’ and for light line (max #4 but better #2 or #3). Trust me or not for this long and light line rod you get what you paid. You can build very good rod up to 9’ with ‘cheap’ blank but once you hit the 10’ mark (and up) you get what you paid. It’s a pain in the a.... but it
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I’m with Spencer. Very good advice for grinding the foot of single foot Recoil ;-)
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Sleeve plus epoxy add 1/48" to the overall OD for me (max 1/32").
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