Correct me if I’m wrong. Classic Road Coat is label led as polymer, I not saw Epoxy stated. So is Classic Rod Coat epoxy or other type ? I not chime, just want to know :-)
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For me Donald is spot on (I use the exact same configuration a lot).
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For this usage, best is 1 coat on the core, when dry put you carbon sleeve and epoxy and use some heat (heatgun) to help good soaking.
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I think you don.t need to glue them . They should be elastic so just put them, a wrap in front and you should be ok.
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I build some NFC and for me they.re some of the best (if not the best) you can afford. MB 705-1 HM a do it all, but do it fine (very very good blank). MB 661-1 HM ultra finesse but with power on the butt, never handled something comparable, a must have if you fish finicky fish (not too big). A number of MB-664 and 665 NFC offer some Mag Bass on 8 foot, not so common and nice if you want
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Spencer Phipps Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Gossamer is a 6/0 very fine thread, the 100 you > mentioned is closer to our A thread, or 3/0. For me YLI is nearly as fine as Gossamer, size A is a lot bigger than YLI size 100.. I use it (as I use Gossamer).
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Here what you need
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I’m with Billy. Or depending of the brand you can drill a 4mm hole in the bottle top. Seringues stored, no cleaning between uses, you simple but the bottle (with seringue) down and stir the amount you need (with no air in). Simple and efficient.
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I second, the 821 lack power for 1/4oz Jig head.’
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Burl is at least 2x heavier than cork (and some 3x). So for me weight difference is not negligeable. So I only use it as an accent. But each his own :-)
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For à light Trout rod, runner size 4 will be better.
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The weight you recorded is on line with my notes.
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On this light build I’d stay away from guide with insert. A double foot guide size 10 for stripper. Then a size 2 snake followed by snake size 1/0 thru tip. Other may chime but it’s my starting point.
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It will not, you can trim :-)
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Ritz Grip are very nice if not too thin.
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For fly, spinning or casting regular rods (say in the 6' to 8' range) I built at least four rods with a 100yds size A bobbin.
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Yes they are faster than NFC HM (more tip action).
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I build the ETES 610 MXF, very very good IMHO. (sorry it's in French).
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Thera are very good fly Blank around. Some MHX (not all) are very very good (and not so expensive). In general CTS make very good Blank and you have choice between MX and FX series. For a 9' #5, IMHO nothing is better than the Swift Epic Carbon 590C (hand down the better blank I had in hand period, and I handled a few). But as stated the more important is to choose a blank that suit your
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With HB I normally wait say 8 hours between coats but if I need to sand between I wait more (at least 12 hours but 24 hours better). It's work for me (depend on temp).
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I have the Textouch in hands (Alps) the soft finish is very nice. Also Alps is sized every 0.5mm so it's a real (small) Blank contact reel seat. Fuji you need to insert a tube (and shim). Two Nice reel seat (confortable)
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Regular will work. Do some guides and stop when it start to thicken (and do a new mix to continue). The ratio can be as high as 1:1:1 but the less acetone or DNA the better, if your epoxy run like water at 1:1:0.5 you will be ok.
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May be or not. For me only the real world count,, and I only test the Batson (as I have no acess to PB core) . And 18gr is acceptable (only 4gr heavier than cork), But each is own ;-)
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==>
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I used the Baston Core. Easy to turn (a dream). Make really nice grip (a little on the heavy side for weight, weight of the core is same weight as if you have used cork). Take less epoxy to seal (first layer) than lighter foam. Very good product but not as light as 6 ot 8lb foam. As you use less epoxy for the first coat the final product (Fly Grip) is only 3 to 4 grams heavier than si
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I only use regular for black, NCP black always look ugly for me (very dark gray blue in most case). In fact I only use NCP thread for trim.
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You can bore your insert but remember to keep enough wood for support (integrity). Other way you cut your blank (length of cut = length o reel seat) and you insert and glue a lenght of thinner Blank in to support your insert.
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Single foot are not lighter than snake as a single foot as the same amount of legal as à snake. In fact single is a snake with one foot reversed and welded with the other, so same weight. The weight saving come with the Wrap one vs two and the varnish (one Wrap to cover vs two).
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I use the CRB, fine slip chuck. I had not used te Flex Coat, maybe it is better, maybe not :-)
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