Hi everyone, trying to build a jig rod as close as i can to the jig wrex 5103 . As far as i know the blank is a IM-9 Graphite. I have seen these turn 80kg tuna on a dime and the lift on them is astounding for such a little rod.. are these blanks available from anywhere.? thanks.
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totally agree Russell. my initial question was off the mark of what i was asking and for that i do apologize. in plain would you build a bent butt standup rod specifically for Marlin.? thanks again.
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Hi Bill, ....maybe i should be more accurate at describing its sole purpose... Marlin .high and wide....... not tuna
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Hi Kevin, The tip to me would be to low but there is middle ground. ( never mentioned anything about high sticking..) thanks for the reply.
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Ive been building rods for quite some time but ive hit a dead end with this....heres what i don't understand.. 37kg Rollered game rod with bent butt......DESIGNED FOR STAND UP FISHING.!!! How the &*#*^ can you lift the tip up on a fish without laying flat on your back.?? I dont get it.....the only way that I can see this being "workable" is by putting the gimbal down around your
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cracking at the ends of the feet... doesnt happen anymore for me, more coats at the right time and the right epoxy fixes it all........hmmmmmmmmm.......
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I dont know if I'm aloud to voice my opinion on CP, but i would never use it...all it does is stop the epoxy from penetrating the thread. it fills up the thread with a weak watery substance that will never hold a guide properly and you end up with a void in between the blank and the guide underneath the first coat of epoxy......try it out....removing a guide that has CP added underneath the epoxy
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I use threadmaster lite coat on all final coats, tough as and very durable, although at times it has the tendency to crack its that hard......
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Hi Jan, I used to solely use "Australia Sabre blanks", then one day i got a sticker on one of them that was a Seeker sticker" then someone told me they are made by Calstar, (virtually the same blank codes and the identical honey colour.) theres no such thing as an Australia Sabre blank.) so i gave up totally using or even bothering to purchase them.............but original Sabre
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why replace a guide that has been bent,rusted, twisted or damaged with a "new" identical guide which is only going to do the same and get the same punishment down the track.? I always talk the angler into upgrading guides if they break, why do it again and again down the track...
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Its fairly simple really but there are 2 types of profits.....profit to do the job and "profit margin" on the job. the profit to do the job can be "hidden" a lot easier using very expensive components and by building big game rods,,,however saying that, the profit margin on these big jobs is very minimal... on the other hand, a very cheap rod with cheap components has an inc
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A guide alignment machine..!!! I have 2 of them, they are small & round, and to be honest i would be totally lost without them...... most people call them eyes but the trick is you have to use them with what I call attention to detail Use them both together and you cant go wrong. cheers
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I put the cut on the spool always on the bottom so that doesn't happen.
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I stand by my comments as well Dave, I wont use speed ever again after the recent episode with 4 X 37kg curved butts. didnt sleep for 4 days thinking this was going to fade.......lol........ (stick with what we know first hand is always good)
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Speed is the only brand i can buy down in Geelong Victoria. but its worth getting fish hawk from the Mudhole or Rodworks.
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1/2 oz is only about 14-15 gms.!!!!... I would think N series wouldn't have the flex to cast something so light.... Heres a dilemma I have found with a good cod rod........theres no such thing...... I made cod rod last year from a Calstar E/glass 195-6H and he loves it. the last was this Samurai NV7 and he loves it....... I personally like the NV7 good luck...
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Hi Bob tried these.? Samurai N series. (this is Samurai's propaganda on this blank) 6' NV7 6-8kg - A Barra/Cod blank with grunt and big time stopping power . This new model was developed for our north Australian market to use with Mono or Braid in the 6-8 kg range. This lightweight powerful Blank will find favour with those empoundment enthusiasts. The few i have done end up 145
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Hi Paul, thats right, Speed does not need CP. I only used CP on the samples to see if it did make any difference... and yes it did, with added CP it is nearly a perfect match to the spool after epoxied. without added CP its close to the spool colour after epoxied......either way you look at it. neither of them faded... ps: I'll still be sticking with Fish hawk
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if your joining different colour eva' grips together then i dont think that you will see the join, but the problem will be whether the join is going to flex the same as EVA does once its dry. If your joining the same colour, put your hand in your pocket and get the right length maybe then sand it to the shape you want.
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if your joining different colour eva' grips together then i dont think that you will see the join, but the problem will be whether the join is going to flex the same as EVA does once its dry. If your joining the same colour, put your hand in your pocket and get the right length maybe then sand it to the shape you want.
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yep......thats Roger at the wheel of this topic......lol
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I always had problems with bubbles until i understood why they appear, first coat will always produce bubbles, the air in or under the thread will always come to the surface as the epoxy soaks in, I do the same as Billy, more bubbles the better I say, once its brushed on everywhere i stop the dryer with the guides odviously facing up, leave it for 5 - 10 mins, (procote) then wick off the bottom w
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A few weeks ago I posted a topic regarding the fading of Speed thread and in particular the light Blues. so I wrapped up some bits and pieces about 3 feet long and single coated with either threadmaster and procote even added some CP to some areas as suggested by the Speed sales manager, wrapped masking tape very thickly to areas to keep out the UV and sat them on the house roof for the past 3
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2 identical rods, both 24kg wrapped and epoxied the same way. I flexed one by hand a week later, as i think some of us do. one hand on the tip and pull out or down to flex it..one cracked at the ends of the feet on 3 rollers. the other I fitted the reel and line and fixed it to a digital read out. This one didnt crack anywhere and i was way over the 1/3 fighting drag setting.... Questions: B
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I think your problem would be just minute dry skin off your hands, not much you can do about it, but before epoxying, i reverse some masking tape and dab it on the wraps to get any particles off..it works great.....
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I like "the question of the day" I would rather pay alot of money for expensive guides than cheap guides that break,twist, rings fall out and rust .If I was to get a custom built rod that the guide broke sooner than later I wouldn't be happy with the rod builder.. The one thing I do make clients aware of, is that this rod building still proves that you get what you pay for.. I leave t
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Smart thinking Roger... easier, quicker.. On the question about how many layers, I cut open a recently wrapped guide. (not that i wanted to.) I had 3 wraps of size D very tightly wrapped and the bottom thread was, I wouldnt say dry but very close to. and that was a very very warm mix of threadmaster lite build so it couldnt get any thinner...i think the saturation and penetration everyone talks
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Ah yes....i remember back when i didnt even wrap the ferrule, nice looking 7wt 4 piece flyrod, didnt even know i had to do that back then, hmmmmmm i watched this guy as he struck at a nice brown trout about 4kg, needless to say every joint split and he was left standing with a pale vague look on his face........
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Trying to chase up some Prokote in Australia, Mudhole will take 2 weeks but would like to know if there is a distributor over here to get it alot sooner.. thanks
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yeah no problems Paul. shall do. I used 1 coat of high build treadmaster
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