Lamiglas XMG50 105-2MT and Shimano Chronarch Mg, Bassart Handle and Daiwa cork knobs. Fuji skeleton seat without a center and no foregrip. Whole rig weighs in at 10.5 oz - rod, reel and line.
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I have reached out to All American and a new top will be sent. This was the first that they had heard of a problem such as this. I'll update when fixed.
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Last year I built a really nice #50 stand up tuna and halibut rod on a glass Calstar blank with a spiral wrap topped off with a nep_tune roller spiral top. I paired it with an Avet SX reel spooled with #50 Jerry Brown braid. So, here is the issue. Last year on a trip my line once got stuck between the roller and the frame of the guide. It popped right out when I pulled on it, so I didn't t
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So, to address all this great assistance in one post- I do not know the 1piecer that he tried. This dude can cast. He catches lots of fish. He fishes really good rods. Portability is not a factor, as he wants it for local travel. He has a big quiver for travel with his other rods. I'll definitely try to contact Steffen Bros. Thanks all.
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Thank you David for the info. Nope, it's gotta be 1 PC all the way. My coworker feels that a 1pc will outperform a 2 PC - because he used a friends 1pc once and really liked the way it felt. But, like I said, this guy is really experienced, and owns several high end rods. So, there is no changing his mind at this moment. I just offered to build for him if he can find something suitabl
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I'm a small builder for family and friends. No fee. Normally, I am pretty good at choosing the right blank. This one is outside of my wheelhouse. A coworker - who is a really really experienced fly fisher has it in his head that he wants a 1 piece blank build. His wants are one piece period, 8 to 9 foot, about 7wt, would prefer fiberglass, but I'd suspect if the right blank presented, carbon
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So, I have 2 questions - What is your tip ring size going to be? If 12, then sure. If less than 12, the last 2 or 3 could be smaller (with not sure how many you plan on using). Do you want a monkey wrench? Why not go with a spiral wrap? You could then reduce the # of running guides to make the top 1/2 much lighter. That long rod would also be more stable when fighting a fish. You would
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I should have also said, the blanks you listed are great blanks. Also, I know nothing about the Tommy Farmer-Carolina Cast Pro lineup, maybe worth checking into (along with their reels-another product I know nothing about, but look interesting after a google run).
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"I've thought about it, and I think realistically this makes the most sense. I have no business building something I fundamentally don't understand, so I will just buy some cheaper rods for now and build later if I get more into it." Wrong, wrong, wrong..... This is a perfect opportunity to learn something new. There is more than enough info on here to build you a high quality
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Well, my reply is probably, but what is the point? Just have $ burning a hole in your pocket? The main benefit of using micros is to lighten the rod for more sensitivity. Unless you have figured out a way to feel a jig underneath a bobber, you are probably just thinking about a build that will just end up limiting you at some point. Your bobber stops may be more prone to hang, and if that ha
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You can get a red poly from West Marine - FSE Robline, 4 mm I think.
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I just built a trout spin rod on the 3 wt yellow lami fly blank. It is soft and slow, and makes a notstalgic looking rod. The 5 wt would fit the bill nicely, but, they are not cheap.
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I have some marine grade polyeurithane that should fit the bill. Will I have to worry about the grip getting slick though? And, are you building it up enough to competely smooth the seams between wraps (does it now feel corrugated or not)? Thanks for the advice.
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I am nearly done with a boat rod that I built for my son, and I wrapped the handle with some nice 4 mm nylon cord. I have built a couple of rods with this cord, but have not put any coating on them. They seem to be holding up well, but they are on larger dia butts, and are less prone to slipping. This rod is a little smaller, and I used 2 different cords per grip, and possibly more prone to sl
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I have been searching for the old-school yellow fiberglass Eagle Claw blanks, and have not come up with much success. The rods (featherlight) are still in production, but I have not been able to find any blanks. Anyone know of vendors? I am wanting to build some trout trollling rods, and wanting to stay with fiberglass, and that yellow just screams nostalgia. Any other suggestions would be ap
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I'm not far off from Karry. For 10-50 lb fish I use a Rainshadow SWS65MH-M (a little lighter than what Karry suggests) coupled with a Stuart tuff-butt. For my guest rod, it is the same blank, but with cork, and the tuff-butt rod is way more sensitive hands-down. At least that is what my buddies say after I hand my rod off to them. The live bait series have a great soft tip for seeing the bite
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Look at Port Supply/West Marine. They carry some pretty fancy lines for sailing/dinghy use. The ones that I have used were finish lines made by New England Rope. Wrapped the butt of a sturgeon rod with a 4 mm spectra composite line. Soft, tuff, looks great. I wanted something with a little more body than traditional cord to make the dia. larger. FYI the cord offered by @#$%& (is quite nic
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There is no such thing as an ideal salmon/steelhead rod. Techniques and fisheries can be extremely specific, and call for a certain type of rod. Far too many people take their do-all rod out for techniques that can be just outside the realm of practicality for that rod. This does both the fish and the fisherman an injustice. Many hours can pass between fish even for a good fisherman that is
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I built a great sturgeon boat rod using a Rainshadow SWS65MH. It is a 6'6" rod, with a Stuart Tuff-Butt, which lengthened it out to 7'. It is a blend of RX4 graphite and glass, and labeled as a live bait rod. The tip is pretty soft, which aids in seeing the ta[-tap-tap without the fish feeling the rod, but the butt has a lot of strenght in it for lifting. I outfish ugly stick glass rods
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I have several rods under my belt, but was trying some new things and wanted to make sure that things would still work out. I have wrapped an underwrap with metallic thread, applied cp, and applied 3 coats permagloss. So, for the overwrap, is it OK to apply the CP over the top of the permagloss that has been applied to the underwrap? And yes, I will permagloss over the overwrap. Just wanted t
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Love the Sumo also. Less foaming than gorilla or ultimate glue. Lighter than epoxy.
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Well, I did what was not supposed to be done – and it came back to bite me in the a@%. I built a spinning rod out of a Rainshadow IF806 fly blank. 8 ft. med-fast action, 6 weight. Paired it with a Okuma Alumina spinning reel with 6 lb line. Built it for my father-in-law for fishing for small walleye using small jigs. Well, it worked great for the small ‘eyes and several perch. Then, the
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I need to do a repair on a stand-up rod that had the eva crushed in a harness. I really do not want to do eva again, because I know that it will happen again, and that rod will not fit into a standard rod holder with the eva. I am leaning toward using a rope grip - surf style I guess. I really do not know anything about it. Have tried some searches, but nothing. Do I do a simple thread s
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Anglers workshop will hook you up with any kind of bag that you want. Give them a call and explain what you need. They have them custom made without custom prices.
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Well, the other day I posted a question regarding using no grip at all. Well, I could not do it. I could have, but there was not enough material there for casting. It would have been ok for palming the reel though. I ended up putting on a 3.5" piece of foregrip cork, which is pretty thin to begin with. Anyway, the blank feels great between the skeleton. 3 fingers on the blank will be n
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Thanks for the input guys. I agree with Emory that the Texalium is heavier, especially after shimming and some additional epoxy. Personally, I will never build another texalium for myself. I have never had colder hands while winter steelheading than while using my tex. handled rod. That rod is reserved as a summer boat rod. BTW, I have already started the project. I did have to includ
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Mo, thanks for the Airrus reference. Still a lot more "stuff" on it than I was thinking about. It will not be a thing of beauty - just what is absolutely necessary. Everyone else, thans. Yes, I am rolling with light guides, wide spacing, and little thread and permagloss. I'll try to get it rolling in the next few days. Can't wait to bust out the scales when it is done. Drew
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Jon, It is a 8'9" steelhead rod with a spiral wrap. I will use a minimum of thread. I have read the reports of others on a threadless wraps strength, but old habits die hard, and I do not know if I could trust it if I got ahold of a big chinook. Peace of mind I guess. Spencer, I guess that I should have stated it in the original post, it is to be a casting rig. I will tape things i
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DR, Yep, something like that. But, insead of a traditional seat, I was leaning toward a fuji skeleton. Who needs all that extra plastic in the center? I'll get rid of it and have nothing but blank in between. Insead of a exposed blank seat, I will just have exposed blank. I am just trying to go to the Mo Yang school of thought here. Nothing more than what is needed. A few guides, a littl
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I have been away from internet access for a few days, and just got done reading the technical discussion about impedence and sensitivity involving cork and other materials (thanks Emory). What about using no grips at all - other than a cap on the butt to protect the blank. If I read Emory correctly, the amplification would be reduced by not using cork (or similar). But, if no grip is used, ma
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