If Clyde runs out of jerky , he can come over to the NERBS booth for a snack . These will come with a rod support along with some other goodies .
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Some feathers from Kate , I'm re-wrapping a 10 wt Allstar Austin I grew tired of , and needed improvement .
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JC feathers for section alignment , I used a small drop of Testors yellow paint on the male end .
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Exactly what happened to me a couple of years ago .............I never did the intense thread art like you , but I loved to build rods (and still do , ) Now it's a rod or 2 a year when ever I get the itch .
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Luis , if I read correctly , you used a finish epoxy for the cork grips which is not the right thing to use . For handle construction a 2 part adheasive epoxy , such as U-40 Rod Bond , or Flex Coat builders epoxy should have been used . I do not know if the job you did will hold , but the finnish epoxy is pretty tough stuff , time will tell . For the fuzzy tags of thread , try putting in the
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I use my 6wy FT for everything from nymphing for trout , to dry flies with a floating line , to spring stripers with a 250GR sink-tip and a #2 clouser . PLENTY of power , and a tip that can finness a dry fly . If I had to pick one rod out of the 20 or so fly rods I own , that would be the one . .................. Hands down . Have fun , John NERBs .
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Leon , Permagloss is some tough stuff if you need to remove a guide , it is also VERY thin and takes 6 to 8 applications to get any kind of "build", and at least 4 to completly cover thread wraps so there is a smooth finish . I use it for a first application on fly rod guides , then a thin coat of 2 part , usualy Thread Master , or LS regular .I don't think you can over apply PG , if y
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Dan , if you take a look thru the photos under the handles you will see some fly handles with incerts that aren't even connected in the center, the two halfs are tapered to the blank in the center . As Mick stated , if you have a strong bond of the skeliton and hoods to the incert pieces ( good prep , scuff and fit ) with a quality adheasive epoxy ( Rod Bond ) you will have no problems . You ca
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REC Recoils are nice , but if you laid out that kind of money for such a blank , you will be doing yourself no justice to use anything other than a nice set of SIC ringed giudes on that rod, for both strippers and running guides . REC make VERY nice seats as does a number of other manufacurers . Fixed fighting butts are what I use (mostly) on that size rod , I've used detachable ones , but
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Ray , you may concider trying to find a 7' in what you think is what you (the customer) wants and add a titanium , or an aluminum extention to the butt . I've done it , fairly simple and it works great . Have fun , John Dow , NERBs
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...Same as Mike, hand turn , wick the sags for a 1/2 hour or so , then turn the dryer on ......... 4 RPM on my lathe , or 30 on my home made units . John
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Call , or e-mail Andy Dear , I'm sure he will be able to tell you . Have fun , John NERBs
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Marty , I have "burnished" the edges of stick on decals , along with rounding the edges with a sharp blade , and seldom have any edge problems ....................... I also apply to a base coat of said epoxy . Have Fun , John . NERBS
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I'm glad Bill and Cliff are in the same camp as I am reguarding ceramic , and Higher framed stripping guides ............. IMO snake guides belong on cane rods only ... and for looks at that . They have no place in modern flyfishing . With all of the state of the art components sporting the highest quality materials available to put on a graphite rod blank today , the snakes should be left b
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Tom said it as simple as can be said ................... waves = too much at application .............. Try hand turning for the first 20 min , wich off hangers . I JUST got finished doing a small butt section of a 2PC spinning rod on my kitchen table , hand turned for a while and it's spinning away on my 30 RPM spinning maching right now . I'm positive to will be as smooth as glass in the AM
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I have been using them , I even tried a SF for the bumper guide it's self , but with out epoxy ( with a good load on it ) it would move a bit . Just seeing if anyone else was doing this . thanks John
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Cliff , what's your oppinion on the guide frames after the "flip" ? I would think that a lighter (frame gauge) , or different framed guide could also be use ? On lighter rods , where I would use double foot guides ( when use on top ) , it may be possible to go with single foot after the transition due to lack of the suspention issue with the line? I refering to use on lighter rods .
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The higher the Modulus , the more fragile the blank will be is a good rule of thumb measure of "durability" when choosing. Take a look at some of Dan Crafts blanks , and check the CCS site to look up the #s for the "action" you desire .There are TONS of different blanks in differen configurations and sections to choose from . GL3s are nice blanks , I've buile quite a few th
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I have read of guys heating the stuff in hot , not boiling , water to "loosen " it up . Not sure if is Hypalon or EVA that was mentioned . I know one is much harder or firmer than the other , I'm guessing that EVA is much eaiser to work with . I'm putting some EVA on a blank right now , and it streches quite a bit , but it is only a 4" piece with a .750 ID going on a .860 dia bl
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It can be done , but it's not going to be easy . You'll have to find a grip with a rather large ID and have an arbor (tapered) to get it started from the back , using a lot of Rod Bond as lube / adheasive . Depending on what you find , or ream to size you may even have to "shim" the blank to get a snug fit up by the seat . If the section of blank the grip is destin for is heavily tape
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I've heard a lot of complaints on the "upgraded chucks" , but I haven't heard the description og the problem . Can someone E-mail me and tell me what is wrong with them . I was thinking about getting one 'till I started hearing the complaints . Thanks , John........ jdow4071@sbcglobal.n&#
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I must have read that book 20 times on the way down/back from charlotte . Bill really did a nice job explaining the details of lay-out and wrapping the more complicated wraps . Well Done , Billy . John
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Is there also the feature on the site to review previous orders ? I believe when I go on Janns' site and log in , I can view previous orders and check on what backorderd , and how long before I got it . Thanks , John
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If the frame isn't bent , I would call the vendor you purchased it form and have another one sent along for replacement . Those are far too expencive to have the ring "pop" out . I'm sure some Zap-a-gap will put it back in the frame for a temp fix , but it won't likely last too long . John
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I'm glad some one has the guts to try that kind of stuff , I now can use my fly tinsle in some feather inlays . Should add some charicter to a fly rod . John
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Spencer is right on with the high framed in a 16 for the 1st stripper , as you will likely have a large dia. reel in that wt rod . For the comment on the rod "handling the weight" of the Ti/SIC Fujis , you will be amazed how light those guides really are , providing you are getting the titanium frames . You will also be impressed by the reserve power , and casting chariceristics of Da
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Cliff , not having that perticular blank and reel in front of me, ( I do have 2 967-Fs' and a "few" reels though ) I'm not at liberty to give an exact , to the inch , layout as you have so graciously provided . I will say that I offered my oppinion as to guide sizes to accomidate what he had on hand , taking into concideration he had a # 12 top already , and only had to get a few more
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Chuck , if you look thru the photo page , there is a pic. posted By Tom Kirkman of a setup he did on a flyrod that is adjustable from both sides . It looks like he took 2 Fuji skeliton sets and used the 2 halfs with the threaded barrels and locking rings .He put them facing each other on an incert . With this set up the reel can actually be adjusted quite a distance up or down on the incert , t
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All the fly tinsel I have is quite thick , and who knows what it's made out of (finish problems) Like Billy said , there are a ton of different metalics on the market , though I don't recall seeing any round stuff . What will it be used for , just trim , or decorative in the butt section . You could always wrap some on a piece of scrap blank and do an epoxy test . Have Fun , John, NERBS
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Jim , I was thinking about that also , it came to me after while I was eatin' corned beef and cabbage(OCD) , silk then Permagloss, wrap a guide over . John
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