I knew guys that were using this stuff back in the 80's; long before forums and well before I started building. :)
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FYI...Just make sure, you don't use the "traditional" float rod guides; more weight and certainly not needed. I use very small low frame single foot fly rods guides under the Fuji new concept system. Rod ends up being more crisp and lighter.
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AAAAAAAAAAAAAMEN ROGER! A voice of reason; thank you sir!
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Worked for me...no probs..
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Yes Bill, industry folks; reps, rod designers, factory employees, etc. Sir, this has nothing to do with trust. It has been a long time practice that most manufacturuers do not rate their "all" of their rods correctly, or how some of us would want to see them rated. But, that being said, pick a line and run with it! However, the line I picked has been very successful for me and s
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I'll dig in my heels on my mentioned method that the manufacturers concur with; and that is multiply the rods' rated line weight by 2. Sorry Bill, but no Google for me. The root of this is that the species of fish will dictating the rod I use, therefore my line weight will be dictated by the rod...Truly the root of this thread IMHO. There's a hundred ways to skin a cat, and this method i
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PHIL: I don't believe the fish and water conditions govern what size/diameter/etc tippet I am going to use. The general species targeted is going to dictate what rod I'm gonna use, therefore, the rod I use will dicate the breaking strength of my tippet. And sure, water conditions can, and often do, dictate what rod I am going to use as well, so I have to give some credence. TOM:
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TOM: I'm talking off the shelf rods and blanks with the manufacturer's fly line rating on it. I know there's no standard, but Ya (we) gotta start "some place" and doubling the line weight is a great place to start and continue with. And sure softer rods got the lighter tippets, and fast rods got the heavier. But, in 30+ years, I have only broken ONE fly rod and that was taking it
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After working in Alaska's largest flyshop for many years, us sales guys as per many of the reps, advised people to double the line weight of the rod and that should be the maximum "Breaking Strength" of the tippet. Notice how I said "breaking Strength"? becuase most line that is not IGFA line will break higher that labeled. 12# Maxima Ultra Green breaks at about 15#'s.
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Just use spinning rod guides and utilze the New Concept System layout. Also, a true noodle rod as I'm sure you know, has little to no back bone anywhere in the blank and are typically longer than 9 foot; of course that is not cast into stone. (Except in the Great Lakes area. :) )
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I strongly echo what Kerry Hansen says. And speaking form first hand experience, dealing with manufacturers can be an absolute nightmare regardless of whom they are or how long they have been in buisness.
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JOHN: The difference is night and day, and black and white! I have built many float rods, and the guides you used are about 2/3 heavier. That, compounded with twice the thread and twice the thread finish equates to night and day. I have several 10/11 spey blanks I use for Chinook Salmon, all of which have single foot FLexlite guides or low profile fly guides. Don't subject yourself to
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For the most part, I only build float rods. Personally if you want a lighter rod that feels more like the naked blank, I would not use traditional float road guides aka high frames. Why some float rod builders and manufaturers are still using these guides is beyond me. The guide is substantially heavier than low profile, single foot, fly rod guides. The difference is amazing... Just my
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AMEN TOM! I have been trying to tell that to the sales reps for 15 years!
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John.. I have to ask why did you use these guides? And did you use double footed or single? Just curious, thanks. Paul
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And there's a better reason why there are hammers made with a rubber textured handle....I believe 3m did a very good test on the coeficients of friction on both types of lines and cocluded with the sharkskin. Howevre, I have to respectfully agree and disagree with Tom. I think the type and what the surface is made of will better determine the "grippyness".
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DAVID: Thank you so very much for the post...well said!
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www.kigan.com Made in Korea...not for this guy!!!!
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Oh, and let us not forget NOT to use a medical syringe as they are silicone based. Many of us, to include myslef, know that this can ruin a batch of thread finish...
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Leave alone and fish...waaaaaaaaay to many things to go wrong and break.
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Even candle wax lightly applied? Come on you guys....Really? Never lost a section or had a ferrule stick yet....Are you Engineers inventing things? LOL
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DAN... Did anyone say "why" a very light coat of wax is not advisable? I, like millions of others, have had no problems in the past 30+ years... Just wondering...
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Jay.... I'm sure you have thought of this already, but remember respiratory protection by ventilation of the booth and/or a half-mask respirator with the appropriate cartrage, as well as keeping any spark/electrical arc producing devices away from the booth. Oh, and make sure the fire extinguisher you have close by is functioning and the pressure gauge indicator is in the "GREEN" if
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On the eight day, God created Batson Enterprises... Merry Christmas
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As long as Batson stays in business, this cat's happy.
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If my memory serves me right, G. Loomis made an 8'5" 13/15 and 15/17 Mega about 10 years ago. May be worth a poke around with some old-school vendors....These blanks had much backbone...I used the 13/15 for Halibut here in AK.
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GRANT: All due respect but this quote of yers, "On a rod that long, you WON'T notice any difference in weight or cast ability with the doubles. If you don't want the rod don't take it!" is very innaccurate, and is quite to contrary. With twice the wraps, thread,and finish the action will be dampend exponentially with a long rod. I know cause I build 13-17 foot floats rods exclus
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GREG... I feel your pain and I would not accept the rod period. The double foot guides are going to add a HUGE amount of weight to the rod as the need for double the thread, double the finish and double the size and weight in guides. You hit the nail on the head with single foot guides-as it's only a 4-8# rod. IMHO, this rod is going to feel like a wet noodle-which is what the builder
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red on white....
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Sure...why would you not put one on? All due respect to Phil, but just because you leader is now within your guides, is totally irrelevant to me. I see his point, but still not a consideration to me as the edges of some reels could mar the leader. Good luck! Paul
Forum: rodboard