Anyone have an approximate line test rating equivalency to fly line ratings on the rods?

I was going to build a spinning rod on a fly blank and I want to make sure I'm building it on an appropriate blank. I know most flyline's are coated 20 or 30lb test underline's with the overcoating that gives it the weight, and it's more about leader/tippet ratings, but how do they transfer to line ratings?

I was thinking about it and wondered if this seems right

1wt- 2lb test

2wt- 4lb test

3wt- 6lb test

4wt- 8lb test

5wt- 10lb test

6wt- 12lb test

7wt- 15lb test

8wt- 20lb test

9wt- 25lb test

10wt- 30lb test

11wt- 40lb test

12wt- 50 lb test

Does that seem approximately right?

After working in Alaska's largest flyshop for many years, us sales guys as per many of the reps, advised people to double the line weight of the rod and that should be the maximum "Breaking Strength" of the tippet. Notice how I said "breaking Strength"? becuase most line that is not IGFA line will break higher that labeled. 12# Maxima Ultra Green breaks at about 15#'s.

So, with that said, you hit the nail on the head in your above estimates until ya get to the 8wt. Now, is your estimates above wrong? No. I think for most people the line weights above 8wt could be stepped down a scosh to prevent rod breakage.

Hope this helps ya....
Paul

The problem here is that there is no standard for what constitutes a "5-weight" or any other weight for that matter. One company's 5-weight is another company's 7-weight. Thinking that two 8-weight rods from two different companies will possess the same power or deadlift capacity would be in error.

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Tom- I don't feel that's generally true in the fly fishing world. Atleast not as much as it is in the conventional with the power ratings of like Ultra light, light, medium light, medium, medium heavy, heavy, and so on don't seem to match even within the same companies...

And the higher wt. rods were where I was unsure about. I was more going by what they typically are used for... 7-8: Large Freshwater/light salt, 8-9: Heavy Freshwater,light/mod saltwater, 10-12: Mod-Heavy Saltwater. and 13/14: Heavy-Extra Heavy Saltwater...

There's a book called the Orvis Fly-Fishing Guide written by Tom Rosenbauer that makes recommendations on rod line weight for fish species and a section on tippet size needed to correctly roll over different fly sizes and types that I think will help you here. It's an old book so you shouldn't have a problem finding a used copy for a couple bucks. It shows tippet size/diameter, in general terms, and the approximate line test of the tippet material. Between looking at two graphs and a bit of reading in the chapters you'll correlate the info you want. It's old enough that it doesn't even list rods under 3 wt as they were so rare. In a nutshell the hook size used has much more to do with line size and rod wt than I originally thought it would be.
What it will show you is that you are overstating the lb test needed for each weight of fly rod by a considerable bit. I've use 7 and 8X tippet on 3 weight rods and both are 1 lb or less in breaking strength for instance, European and other off shore lines can be had in lighter line tests than you see in most stores or you can use tippet material as leaders, or both.
One source of these lines I have bought through Cabelas, Tectan line, made by Damyl/Quick in Germany I think.
Forgot to mention I have some 4 piece travel gear rods built on fly rod blanks, my Batson RX8 12 wt conventional gear rod is used with 12 to 20 lb line with the lower weights used much more often that the heavier line.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/19/2011 11:32AM by Spencer Phipps.

Bryan,

I can assure you it is 100% true - there is no standard for fly rod ratings. Not even close. The ratings are purely subjective based on what the manufacturer believes the rod will be used for. Even among the same manufacturer, a 9' 4-weight may not possess the same power as the maker's 7'6" 4-weight.

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Bryan,
Fly line weight is based mostly on the size fly you choose to present and how much wind is present.
Lighter lines don't have the mass to cast large flys or drive into breezes.
Tippet size is dictated by the fish and water conditions.
Very small flys and tippets may be used on heavy lines if the conditions are necessary.
If you wish to apply line ratings to fly blanks you might rather compare the butt dias vs spinning and casting rods. I don't believe anyone using a 9' 12 weight is capable of generating 450 ft lbs of torque for any sustained period of time.
Heavy lines are capable of casting large flys and the rods are built to cast the lines. Fish fighting and pound test requirements are not a main criteria for fly casting. The fly must first be delivered. After the presentation and hookset the fish rather than the angler is in control. You can suggest, but unless the fish is small in comparison to the tackle size, rod rating is not a major consideration.
If you are attempting to correlate fly rod line weights to spinning and casting rods .....
4-5 weight is an ultra light
6-7 weight is a light
9-10 weight is a med-light
12 weight is a medium
The previous is only an approximation
Suggested ratings may be quite different between each manufacturer

Eugene Moore

Unhide your email and let me know what rating you want to achieve and I will provide some suggestions of fly blanks that make the appropriate spin rod.

One think you can try is to put the line weight over - 16 - a fraction and get an idea of the lure weight - then look at line weights for that lure weight.

Bill - willierods.com

Shouldn't there be a correlation with AFTMA line weight, eg, the 'ideal' AFTMA line weight for an 8 weight rod is 210 grains, which equals 0.48 ounces . . . about half an ounce. By the same token, 30' of 'ideal' 4wt line would weight 0.27oz; 30' of 10wt line = 0.64oz; and 14wt line, 1.14oz. I would think this would closely establish a 'sweet spot' lure weight.

By the way, this pretty much corresponds to the 'line weight over 16' factor Bill mentioned 'til you get up to 11wt, then it begins to fall apart . . .


steve

So the thing - since nothing is right over rated , under rated - as to feel, or lure rating - - ya either buy a blank and put some guides on it and cast to see if it - feels - good to you

Or ya come and ask if some one has used it and see how they liked it ??

Then again how it feels to them may not be what it feels to you

What else can you do ???

Bill - willierods.com

Few 8-weight rods will easily load with just 210 grains. Most are rated for aerializing far more than just 30 feet of 8-weight line.

That's the problem - the AFTMA standard is for lines, not rods.

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TOM:

I'm talking off the shelf rods and blanks with the manufacturer's fly line rating on it. I know there's no standard, but Ya (we) gotta start "some place" and doubling the line weight is a great place to start and continue with. And sure softer rods got the lighter tippets, and fast rods got the heavier. But, in 30+ years, I have only broken ONE fly rod and that was taking it out of the rod tube. Knock on wood! Now I just jinxed myself; thanks Tom! Haha...

This method has been very successful for me, as well as the other blue hairs I fish with....plus the thousands of happy customers that I sold to as well.

Paul

My point is that what is safe for, say, one 4-weight rod, is going to be too high for another. The line weight rating on the rod does not denote the power of the rod and if you want to put a leader or tippet rating on the rod you need to know how much power it has. I have some 4-weight rods that could easily break 8 lb test, but I have other 4-weight rods that would fail long before the 8lb test does.

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Eugene Moore made an excellent observation above. "Tippet size is dictated by the fish and water conditions." An #8 tippet will break most fly rods if they are high-sticked when the fish is close. With this warning in mind the best size tippet to use is the one which allows you to hook and land the most fish on that day, and the size of that tippet will be a function of the fishing environment instead of a non-standardized manufacturer's designation.

PHIL:

I don't believe the fish and water conditions govern what size/diameter/etc tippet I am going to use. The general species targeted is going to dictate what rod I'm gonna use, therefore, the rod I use will dicate the breaking strength of my tippet.

And sure, water conditions can, and often do, dictate what rod I am going to use as well, so I have to give some credence.

TOM:

Understood sir, that's what I thought your point was.

Have a great day guys!
Paul

Do a Google Search on tippet used for certain fish. And line.

Bill - willierods.com

I'll dig in my heels on my mentioned method that the manufacturers concur with; and that is multiply the rods' rated line weight by 2.

Sorry Bill, but no Google for me. The root of this is that the species of fish will dictating the rod I use, therefore my line weight will be dictated by the rod...Truly the root of this thread IMHO.

There's a hundred ways to skin a cat, and this method is the easiest, most reasonable, and accepted by the indusry folks that I have had contact with.

That's all I have..:)

Paul

accepted by the indusry folks

Most do not label there rods correctly and you trust them.

I guess that is why companies are making there rods with info they get here. Split grips , micros split seats ??

Bill - willierods.com

Yes Bill, industry folks; reps, rod designers, factory employees, etc. Sir, this has nothing to do with trust. It has been a long time practice that most manufacturuers do not rate their "all" of their rods correctly, or how some of us would want to see them rated. But, that being said, pick a line and run with it!

However, the line I picked has been very successful for me and sooooooooooooo many other people, that I don't see any point in changing direction unless a tried and proven method is better; and I have not seen posts to other references, ideas, or suggestions other than the one Bryan and I posted...just discrepancies about mine.

Companies would be ignorant not use this incredible sight to learn about what the "people" want; I would.

Paul