Another option is to look at the PTS17 seat. I like both the ACS and PTS. The best part of the PTS is you don't need to worry about that exact measurement, you just need to make sure the inner tube will fit the blank, pretty much like all seats.
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Fuji MN style guides will do the job. Given the rating I expect the reel to be quite large so the first guide will be a size 40 stripper I wouldn't go any less than a size 12 tip so that should help with the rest of your guides. You may be able to go straight from a 40 to a 25 and then to a 16 but you won't know that until you do some testing. Just wondering why you are using a long rod like t
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What are the advantages of split grips?
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I like the Fuji ACS seat and it was my go to seat for casting builds. I'm in the middle of a build with the new Fuji PTS seat. It looks and feels nice and is worth a look.
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For what it's worth, I have done builds with a Fuji KL high frame stripper and reduction guide followed by the Fuji KB style guides. Specifically TKLAG 20H, TKLAG 8H then TKBAG 6j to the tip. I could have gone smaller running guides but being Titanium and the customer was using heavier leader with a potentially bulky knot, I didn't worry. It works extremely well. The black coated stainless mod
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Bill I can't put the links up here but you can get metallic flake to put on the bare foam cores like the one mentioned above followed by covering in a Carbon sleeve. Again I can't put that link up but there's plenty of options out there. I coated my bare Carbon grip with ETEX rather than rod building epoxy and am very happy with the result.
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Thanks Roger. That's a very interesting approach. I typically use a very similar size leader or a little heavier. It goes to show the 'horses for courses' variety we see in the fishing circles around the globe. Cheers.
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Slightly off topic but just curious about the reel selection compared to the line class. Do you need a lot of line capacity due to the depth you will be fishing? Also I'm interested in the choice of such a light top shot compared to the main line. It's half the strength of the braid and given braid typically breaks well above its rating, it's even more of a difference. Cheers.
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I always underbind with size A thread. Strength is irrelevant here as it's not binding the guide on. Also, the thinner thread underneath helps a larger grade thread lay on top. While you can overbind in A as well, I always go thicker, usually C. Guide selection and size will depend on the type of rod and rating etc. so until you know that you are flying blind. For example if it's a spinning rod w
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Anytime Bill. My brother didn't like the LC guide for his rod or the K so he had to buy the size 40 MN to get the height. I doubt the 30MN will be sufficient but time will tell. The LC is a 'different' looking guide but I feel it's the best fit for clearance purposes of this type of build. I guess it comes down to a form over function choice for the angler who ends up with the rod. My brothers r
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They should but for the height issue you could use the LCSG style to get even better height on the size 20 compared to the K size 30. After that you can start using the MN frames if you prefer. I've done this on some parabolic rods to keep the line off the foregrip and anglers fingers.
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I'm building a baitcaster in spiral at the moment. My first few guides to complete the spiral are K guides. Then I've gone to the concept belly guides to the tip. My reason to go with K to start is I am going Titanium so have to. Otherwise the MN style will work. Either way both the MN and K will be ok and you can match the frame colour to the belly guides too with the Alconite range. Not sure
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I would use either Fuji BMNAG, CMNAG or MNSG. The two Alconite options mentioned are black coated stainless and polished stainless frames. The tip would be either a BMNAT, CMNAT or MNST. The Alconite rings should be fine and will save money over the SICs so it depends on whether you want to go that little extra. From what you have said my choice would be Alconite guides and if the rod gets a lot
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If you can't get someone to hold the tip down you could bind the tip to get additional holding capacity. Also you may find that at a decent bend on lighter weights you can still get good guide positioning. I doubt on most blanks you would need to weigh down 17lbs to confirm guide positioning.
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I too would like green anodised Aluminium wind in checks. Let me know if you end up locating them. Cheers.
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They usually have a hole for this. This guide does too but it must have been blocked. It's a very small guide so wouldn't take much. You wouldn't think too much about how painful it could be until it happens!
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Yes Tom it was.
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Roger no guides are on yet. I usually glue my tip on first then do the guides. It helps me line the guides up with the tip.
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I just had an interesting issue gluing a tip on. It was one of Fuji's new Arowana tips and the hole at the eye end was somehow blocked so when I popped the tip on the air pressure kept popping it back off. Not the first time I've had this but this build was a spiral wrap. In the past I've put a reel on an use the line to pull the tip on in place and lined up. You can't really do that with a spi
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As a stripper guide for an overhead yes as it has such a high frame to help keep the line off the foregrip. For me this only applies to reasonably heavy offshore jigging rods with a medium to parabolic taper. So not much place for me and I then revert to snore he style so it's only on a stripper guide.
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All you need to do is wind the thread around near the end of the wrap and away from the pattern. After say 10 complete turns with the thread under tension you can cut the end of the pattern whole still keeping the locking thread under tension. Trim the end bits close to the locking wrap then once trimmed continue the locking wraps until the trimmed bits are covered. Throw you pull through finishi
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What line class?
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They look very nice Jim. Good to see the Carbon tube colour options especially for the seats.
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I don't see anywhere in their catalogue they do painted reel seats and also they don't do Carbon grips so I'm a bit stuck. I could just buy a plain PTS seat and use it on another rod down the track but I still need the Carbon grips anyway.
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Is anybody able to supply some Fuji PTS reel seat measurements please? I'm looking to order some Carbon Fibre grips from Rilt rods and need to know the outside diameter of the thread and butt end. On this note does anyone know where I can purchase one that has a gloss black finish and may even be able to send it to them? Thanks.
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I've heard the same so had similar reservations prior to building myself a heavy popping rod recently. I went with the TKWSG's in the end. I'm about to go on a 7 day trip that will likely really test this rig out so will let you know the outcome. If there's any truth to the rumour it may be due to the MN having a lower profile so less leverage to bending plus perhaps the better support the MN's p
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Thanks very much Brook.
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I've emailed Mudhole a couple of times for no joy so trying here. I've heard Fuji are discontinuing their Titanium Alconite guides. Is this correct? Also, can you advise on an ETA of the new Arowana tips please? I need to order an Arowana tip and would be happy to wait but am concerned now since I also have to order some Titanium Alconites for a separate build and don't want to miss out on th
Forum: rodboard

Ah ha! So they have finally filled that gap! Very keen to hear back on this one! Thanks Jim.
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Funny thing is Bill, that's one of the reasons I went for TORZITE. To get the smaller ring and increase the guide aperture. Going back to SIC I would probably have to go to size 6 instead of the TORZITE 5s.
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