What method is that?
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I'm definitely concerned about it. To me the step down in guide sizes seems to offer very little in weight savings and guide footprint to warrant the risk of the leader catching for whatever small performance I might gain from a casting perspective. Is there a huge difference in going from 5 to 4? I may have to at this point given my options.
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Does anybody else find it strange that the TORZITE belly guides (TKBTG) are offered from size 4 to 6 in 0.5mm increments yet the two tip offerings (TFCCT and TLGTT) are only available in size 4 and 4.5? Furthermore, the 4.5 tips start with a tube size of 2.2 mm which is quite large. I want to build a 10 - 17lb casting rod with TORZITES but the tip is 1.6mm. That's pretty normal in this blank ran
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I should have mentioned when I stated heavy, I'm talking about 100lb braid. Would the increased reduction still work?
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I'm looking to build my own heavy popping rod and wanted to try K frames. I was looking at a K guide train of 40L then 25, 16, then 12s. How does this sound compared to a more traditional 40, 30, 20, 16, 12s route?
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You will also find what I believe to be errors in the casting weights. For example, the freshwater M1 range. The MX72MH-B has only a narrow 1/2 to 3/4 ounce casting range listed while the next model up, the 72H, has a wide 1/4 to 1 and 1/4 ounce range. It seems strange the heavier rod has a lighter minimum and also the next length up in the MH, the 74MH which has the same line rating and tip size
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Thanks for the help. I'll check it out a bit more and see how it goes. It does sound like I need more running guides based on that article. Does that sound right?
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I've gotten confused with an earlier thread where I asked about some Fuji guides so will start again. The rod will be a cut down G Loomis GLX MB783. I'm cutting around 5 inches off the butt so the length will be around 73 inches or close to 185 cm. The reel being used at this point is a Stradic 2500. My current choice of guides is a TKLSG 20H, TKLSG 12H, TKLSG 8H then 3 TKTSG 7 guides to a 7 t
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Awesome thanks guys that's a great help.
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Can anyone help with the difference between the Fuji TKLAG and TKTAG guides please? I'm looking to build a light spin rod and was going to use the TKLAG for the first three guides and I'm contemplating changing to the TKTAGs for the rest?
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I agree with Josh on the potential issue with guide sizes. You might be ok with a microwave set but it is a risk with the small size 5 running guides. I'm not 100% sure on the specific application but from my experience I have rarely needed distance when chasing these fish. The single feet guide will be fine strength wise for that rod so that's not an issue.
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Makes you wonder when or if they will bring out high frame KWs.
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Don does Ben still work at American tackle? I've tried emailing him a couple of times.
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How did you go with this? I can get some measurements if you like?
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The Lightest Megalodon is PE 2-4 and is heavier again to the Titan L. It has a slightly faster action but under a lot of drag will still bend into the foregrip. It's an excellent blank but too heavy for your need. I agree on the Titan rating too, it's a light blank but I suspect slightly underrated at 30lb max. Both are excellent blanks.
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Well done and a great story. Quite moving.
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I have not had any experience with CTS blanks but have only heard great things about them. They have a good rep. Between the three brands mentioned you will get a good blank and I can't say which would better sorry. There are others out there too so perhaps other members can chime in.
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Mate it might pay to drop a little in line class for that. Perhaps the next blank down which will still see you cover the majority of the lure weight. I'm also guessing you wouldn't use the heavier 3/4 as much as the lighter range? If you want distance it might also pay to add another 6". So perhaps the HM-P903-MHX. I also think the Phenix range is worth a look. The Ultra UMBX-S706M-B or
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The guide train for one of these rods is using Fuji KWAGs. A 25, 16, 12 and three 10s to a 10 tip. The second is the Torzites with a guide train of 25, 16, 10 and three 8s to an 8 tip. I dropped down in the Torzites as you can see as that's one of the advantages. The weight saving was 50%. I'll put the exact numbers up in a few days on that but it was about 8 grams saved. I haven't built the rod
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Thanks Jim. I thought so and glad you confirmed. That will be good for that project in the other thread.
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I'm working on a project that involves making two custom built rods from the same blank, one to a customers specs and one a personal build to see how much weight I can cut off the build without being silly and still get a good rod that looks great and fishes well. I'll also compare to the factory built version. I'll write about them more later but as part of this process I started weighing all m
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What about a VSS size 16 seat and 30lb braid? I was about to do a 17 and a 16 on two rods in this class. I figured even the 16 would be ok?
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I agree Bill and I'll be weighing the other guides I have as well.
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I hear you Jim. I plan to start one and can send you the weights if you like? I have access to a scientific analytical balance so the issue for me is time and access to enough guides to get a representative average. I can do a few though. It's a bit strange Fuji don't do this themselves, especially since some of the advertising in their guide range focuses on weight savings. The new TORZITE rang
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Just wondering do you have a weight chart too?
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Sure does thanks Jim. It would be good to know the frame height to the bottom of the ring as well but this is good.
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Can anyone tell me the height difference between the MJ and standard M frames in the BLCAG series please? I'm assuming the M is taller? How does the 16M compare in height to the 20? Thanks.
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I agree Bill but the question was posed and my initial thoughts was that you would risk a breakage and the above test although done on the tip suggests that moving the pivot point closer to the tip will reduce the deadlift weighting and hence the chance of a breakage. The blank in question was an extra fast action and slowing it up would it have been a bad thing for the application in mind.
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I was thinking with the scenario I raised that the pivot point issue mentioned would come into play and the deadlift would be far less due to the pivot point being much closer to the tip?
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What about cropping the butt? I'd be interested to know what might happen when I cut down a 7'9" extra fast taper blank to 5'6"? So that's 2'3" all from the butt. Just an extreme example but it did come up as an option only just the other day.
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