Forum: rodboard

Forum: rodboard

Chris Tulk,

in order to give proper credit I'll tell you that Joe Kassuba of of Kennewick WA taught me. Get a new soft sponge, cut maybe a 1/2 credit card size piece about 1/4 - 3/8th" thick, cut a hole in the center of sponge relative to butt diameter , put the sponge on tip of rod then saturate the sponge with PG around the hole. pull/squeegee sponge down the rod, mig
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I had a auto body friend paint several blanks for me and they turned out great. He added pearl/metal flake, totally unique but similar to what I see on RodGeeks web site. I used a top coat of permaglas for the final protection. From what I learned on this site and other forums, you don't want the paint to just "dry" but to "cure" so it's best to wait maybe a week before puttin
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Good job, Greg. Don't let Chuck Brown lead you astray while in Nashville.
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Contact cement here too. Less mess with CC. Used rod bond the first time, which worked fine but had it up my elbows by the time I was done. I can be clumsy at times.
Forum: rodboard

Contact cement here too. Less mess with CC. Used rod bond the first time, which worked fine but had it up my elbows by the time I was done. I can be clumsy at times.
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Think about covering EVA with X-Flock shrink tubing, adds the overall costs but protects the EVA from rod holder damage and other hazards.
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Send Karry Batson an email with all of the info that you can provide. He can make a good recommendation for you.
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You probably won't be happy with rattle can paint jobs in the long run. You need a paint that can withstand the heat of applying Perma-Gloss as a clear coat. There is also a relatively new product called "Formula D" which is not supposed to be as hot. Search YouTube. Also there's lots of help about painting in archives.
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You can use a small file or emery board to knock down the high points then apply another coat of epoxy.
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After researching a little more at I now realize that I might have misspoken. The FL842 is actually a Grizzly-Fenwick, it's brown glass not yellow. The SP842 (without the F) is also brown. I bought 3 blanks and the 3rd is a yellow 7 footer similar to the SP842 and only ID is 006 stamped near the butt. I didn't buy these with any idea in mind but maybe to pass them on to someone who coll
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This subject has been well covered and can be found by using the search feature. Roughly speaking, use fine grit wet or dry sand paper being careful not to get into the fibers. You could elect to use a citrus based paint remover. Once blank is sanded smooth and free of debris it's ready to be painted. Some have used Krylon paint while others have taken to auto body to be painted. After painting c
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I just obtained 2 Fenwick trout sized blanks very cheap and was wondering if there was anyone who specialized in or collected them. One is an SP842 the other is FL842 both one piece and have the Fenwick stamp of logo and model #. Send me an email if interested. I'd like to see these end up in the right hands. Mike
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Don Becker graciously donated some of his new thread at the Lamiglas get together in Woodland Wa this past weekend. The colors really popped but haven't had a chance to use it yet. How would shipping compare going Hawaii to the mainland?
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I'll email you this afternoon when I get home from work. I only have one 1oz spool but don't have anything in mind to use or match so you can have it. Also have NCP too.
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Just finished one using Batson's recipe. 10" woven tubing rear and 12" EVA with shrink tubing fore.
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Good/great advise above. I scratch the surface with a pocket knife. Probably try Mike Barkley's idea next time.
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Mike, thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge on CF grips. One question, I didn't see you clean the paint mixer on the drill. Is that a one time use?
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Like everything else with DC, it's all top notch and easy to use. I think you'll like PnS as well as the water slide I'm sure you know don't touch the sticky back and leave a finger print.
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Welcome aboard Marcos. Can't help you on which blank to choose as I"m not from that part of the country. As a rod builder you'll soon find out that it's unacceptable to think about a one size fits all rods. After a couple of years in this hobby you'll have a small, medium and large fishing rod for each of the species mentioned above. You'll want them in spinning, conventional casting and spi
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Great video.
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I'd rethink the blank. A size 14 tip is not going to be sensitive enough to detect light biting sturgeon. I like the Batson RCLB series.
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Email with photos and sizes, Dennis.
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I bought a a 30 to 80 lb Garcia Conolon cheap to restore. It has a 2 piece stainless reel seat that I'd like to replace. The rod butt ends in the male section of the ferrule and a wooden handle is inserted into the thread section of the seat. I've looked around for a similar seat with no luck. I'm not really sure of the proper terminology, is it 2 piece saltwater RS or a saltwater ferrule RS? May
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Regardless of the customization, simple done well beats complicated done poorly.
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Notice that Tom said very very thin coats. Don't think that this job will be completed in 1 or 2 coats. Coat the wraps so they are barely wet, that's "very very thin" then repeat when dry. Continue this pattern until you're happy. With practice and experience you will be able to put the right amount on with fewer coats.
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No for sure but try this ISBN: 0-VB-05
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Hi Kevin, guide wrapping direction tip to butt or butt to tip is your personal preference. I do butt to tip but have often thought I'd be better off tip to butt so I'd get the more difficult small tip end over with. With more experience you'll develop a lighter touch so the rod won't flop around so much. Keep practicing. Mike
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I was wondering the same as Don. Guessing Billy has PayPal for NERBS and XLRods, what about a personal account. Don't want to mess up personal donations with business accounts. Don O'Neil Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Billy, > How do I donate? Is there an account set up > somewhere or do I just send a check to you? Are > you getting mail?
Forum: rodboard