I built on two Century surf blanks and it was the same way.
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Ken Sorry you were not there. I was really looking forward to your seminar on saltwater fly rods.
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This was a sample I received at the Expo last year. Kept in my shop above 65 degrees.
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What do you do with large butt caps that don't fit in the Flexcoat or Batson rubber holes. Do you make diaphragms with larger diameter holes? The Am Tackle holder accepts larger butt cap diameters but also they can slip out unless taped to hold them.
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Used chromoseal for the first time yesterday over an Fishhawk 221 A orange nylon thread on a Rainshadow RX8 904 blank. Put it on liberally and let dry on rotating dryer. There are dark blotchy areas that look like dirty water marks that became apparent within an hour and faded somewhat but never completely resolved even after 24 hrs. Any ideas? The wrap was tight. The CP bottle inverted severa
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I contacted the vendor who told me to call the manufacturer. They told me they would send me a new motor if I was handy enough to replace it. Then they told me to stress it with a large blank and let them know what happened. That was two weeks ago and I have not received anything. I wound up buying a different brand from a different vendor who delivered it in 36 hrs.
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Anyone else have problems with A.... T...... dryers. I have bought 3 of them over the last two years. Two of them have stopped turning during an overnight finishing causing problems with sagging epoxy. This occurred while turning the butt section of a surf blank. I am afraid to use them now. I contacted the manufacturer and was told they had a few other complaints of the same nature.
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Why so down on Century?
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Tom Do you have the dates yet?
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Billy I am in the process of setting up a Century FMJ 12 and had planned on LC 20 reversed stripper, YSG 12, and L8s to top all titanium. Thoughts?
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Billy Why do you think the LC was least distance? Was this all LCs to the top? We're any reversed?
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Billy What type of line was used and what type of reel?
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15,16,2
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Cost is probably a significant factor accounting for the number of these kayaks. They are pretty expensive but they last forever and very durable.
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I have several Hobie kayaks. They are very efficient and leave hands free. The flippers are ingenious. They do need about 18 in of water for the flipper system but you can flatten the flippers against the hull and use the paddle to move to deeper water. The are also heavier than regular kayaks. I would get the single. The double is very heavy. They are well built but kind of expensive. They have
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South Carolina is pretty close. Nice to get a regional get together.
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I'm coming for my first Rod Expo. Tried to get my wife to come, stay in a nice inn and see HP and she says "What am I going to do? Like you'd really come if I was going to, say, a quilting expo".
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I built this kit last year. Its a nice stick and held up to bull red drum, large rays and sharks. It casts 6 oz well.
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At a course I took they recommended using an alcohol burner to remove air bubbles and have used this successfully. I recently visited an experienced rod builder and he used a butane torch so I tried it and it seemed to work fine too. I am not sure the flaming was as much the problem as perhaps the finish may have hardened a little and as the blank turned it was too late for the finish to smooth
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After applying a coat of threadmaster and flaming, the surface area under one double foot guide is irregular. Will this disappear with a second coat or should it be sanded first? These unopened threadmaster bottles were a gift and the hardener is amber. Is this a problem? Does this mean it is old?
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What's the function of the winding check and what is the reason for the term?
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Bill, sanding has been tried by others without success based on a search of this forum. This would be like sanding sand paper. I may try the flame torch method and if unsuccessful simply remove the wrap. Scott, this safety walk tape is an alternative to cork tape for surf rods. It is not slippery when wet, holds up well to sand spikes and if using the model 310 should be comfortable as well a
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I purchased a roll of 3M safety walk tape and after wrapping it on the blank was surprised at how rough it was. It feels like coarse sand paper. After some research I found that there are several levels of Safety Walk and that what most folks on this site recommend is the medium Model 310 ( black) type which is what I have just ordered. This is supposed to be smoother. I also saw that someone
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Tom I agree with you that the angle prob is not that important. I actually like your method ( 27X for choke guide and then straight edge for other reduction guides). I can use any type of guide, not just Fuji which this GPS requires. I did notice a little bug in the software though. If you calculate the choke with the measurement method first and then do the 27X calculation on their software
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Tom I understand there might be slight differences between methods however there is a 27 in difference in the choke point guide placement between the GPS method and your 27X method. Considering the choke guide placement is critical to placement of the remainder of the guides then why do you think there is such a big disparity? Am I missing something or calculating incorrectly?
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I've been playing with the GPS software and am a little confused with the results. I measured a Stradic 4000FI and got the following measurements A(rear to blank line)-87 mm, B (Spool tip to blank line)-75.5mm, C 126 mm. I then tried the 27X measurements and got A ( spool tip to blank line)-75.5mm and B ( spool diameter) 50 mm. Using Y guides I find the results show a difference in choke point
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I learned to add finish with the rod turning at dryer speed yet when I visited a Pro he added the finish with the rod turning very slowly by hand.
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If you prep the feet you take off the titanium plating. I understand you prep the tips of the feet to help wrap the thread, esp on larger guides. When covered with thread and coats of epoxy does this protect the tips sufficiently?
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Are titanium plated over stainless guides ( Alps) a decent substitute for solid titanium guides (ie. Fuji) for saltwater?
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So is it reasonable to get trial sets of different inexpensive types and sizes to have in the shop simply for measuring, required line connections, numbering, and placement and then order the more expensive guides for the build? Is it always necessary to have the actual reel that will go on the blank or something similar, esp for guide concept system? My shop is in a different state from where
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