I've got the DC777 too. That machine is the cat's meow. If you get the DX777, you'll never look back. And if you go to FlexCoat to pick it up, I'll bet John Cates will even walk it out to your car for you.
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I won it in 2022. I can't remember who won it this year. I think it was Kevin but don't quote me on that.
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It's like I told Roger when I won the first one, the DC777 is the cat's meow.
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FlexCoat 777.
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And as busy as Tom is, he makes sure everybody on this site is courteous, respectful, and civil to each other. In this day and age, that is an accomplishment above all others. Mac.
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It sounds like you do not have a 7122. I think you have a machine lathe. Post up a picture or two for me. Thanks. And don't order anything 1-10 until then. I might be saving you a bunch of money.
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Rodmaker magazine. December 2015.
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Spiral wrap it.
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If you do not find one by Monday morning, post up here. I'll check when I get home. I think I have 3 or 4 new ones. Netcraft used to sell them. I think they're Lakeland reel seats. They're not showing them online right now but I don't have a catalog with me and I'm at work. If you need one tomorrow, shoot me your address and I'll send you one. Mac.
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I read something about this about 5 or 6 years ago. Somebody was running a tuna troller out of Southern Cal. I think. When he went to spiral wrapped rods, he was losing a lot of lures on the strike. He finally figured out that it was the spiral that caused it. If the rods are on the port side, spiral left. If the rods are on starboard, spiral right. I'm sure walleye and steelhead don't h
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Thomas, this has been going on for over 50 years. Rod manufacturers would buy a blank, say 6' long. Then they would use an aluminum tube about 18" long and insert the rod into the tube. All you needed was about 3" of the rod into the tube. Now they could use the same blank and make a rod anywhere from 6' to 7'3" just by the amount of blank in the tube. It's a lot easier reami
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I just got one of these rods it for repair also. It's a Browning Silaflex trolling rod. I thought it was a high end rod. Six Aftco roller guides and a roller tip. It has a 9" foregrip and a 7.5" handle with a black walnut grip stop and a 3" chrome plated brass ball gimble. The reel seat had the Silaflex logo stamped in it. And just by flexing it on the floor, it can't be more
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I think the best new items at the show were the chuck and the retrieval device. No one has mentioned it yet so I will tell you what I was told at the retrieval booth. That device deploys in 4 seconds. Drop your rod into a pool and see how long it takes to drop 8-10 feet. He said it should deploy from 4-6 feet down. So if the rod lands stuck upright in the mud, that float will already be on t
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Yes, I had a big problem with that when I first started using it. Never had that happen before with the Gudebrod thread. Increase your thread tension considerably and that should cure the problem. Try a couple of wraps on a spare piece of rod with different tensions. Then put on CP and see if you can stop the loosening problem. And when you put on CP, don't brush it out at all. Load the bru
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You could also go to the buy/sell page. Someone is selling 51 back issues of Rodmaker for $2/. Buy them all. You can't go wrong.
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Jann's Netcraft has 20-30 # solid fiberglass blanks listed under Netcraft fiberglass blanks. They used to be a sponsor here. I don't know when they left.
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Sounds like you did not use color preserver on the guide wraps. When you don't use CP the wraps do exactly that which is desired on a lot of rods. If you want the thread color to come through, you either use NCP thread or use CP on your regular nylon thread. If you file the guide feet and end up with a shine in some places you need to use CP or color the guide feet back with a sharpie marker
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Dave. Look at the post just before this and go. Looks to be only about 8 miles from Dubuque. You should be there in no time.
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Instead of using Testors paint, mix up a tiny bit of epoxy and color it white with marbling pigment and coat it with epoxy. Epoxy won't attacl epoxy.
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Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but: I just looked up ebony in the "Good Wood Handbook" and under workability the last sentence says, "It does not glue well". It sounds like the aluminum and maple are not the problem. You may want to rethink this grip. It could come apart in the users hand the first time he uses it. If you are deadset on using ebony, try wiping it down
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Jeff, your post about all the drilling steps has the alarm bells ringing. You are boring wood, not steel. Use wood boring bits that cut on the outside with the spurs and DO NOT step drill. Drill your final size with one pass. Metal drill bits can wander when they hit hard spots in the wood, espicially small bits. It's the bit and not the wood that goes off center. The wood bits will cut t
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Joe, also check and make sure your thread isn't coming off the spool and getting wrapped around the shaft where you have them mounted vertically. If the thread wraps over itself it'll bind right up and do what you describe. That happens to me sometimes and my thread mounts horizontally. Didn't think of that before. And I forgot about that little outer washer. It mounts with the serrations out
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Joe, it sounds like the spring is turning the upper washer CW which is tightening the nut as you wrap.. Make sure you have the tensioner assembled in the proper order. There is one more part than Roger said. You should have two large wavy washers put on first that guide the thread. Next comes the small wavy spring washer with the line up notch in the center of the whole. That line up notch k
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You didn't say how long the handle is from the butt to the reel seat or the diameter of the rod at the seat. You could look into cutting the rod in the middle of the reel seat and adding a piece of thin-wall aluminum tubing to the rod with a small shim. This would take all the taper out and leave you with a smaller "rod" to be covered with the handle. Many, many rods have been built
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You never answered how hard it is. Can you indent it with your fingernail? If you can it isn''t mahogany. It looks a lot like western red cedar, especially that flat sawn board. I've cut a lot of that on my mill.
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I think I know what you're after, Steven. I just went through the same thing with three rods in the last two weeks. I have bought a whole bunch of tip tops in all different sizes. One of each. Then I bought Fuji NOG double foot guides. They seemed to be the cheapest I could find. Everything is done with the new guide concept now so you only need one of each of the reduction guide sizes. I
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If you're looking for black cork, try Bangorcork.com. When the home page comes up, click on cork rolls and sheets and scroll down to Bancork EZ Clean cork and small cuts. It's available in 12 different colors. Just be warned that there is a woven fiberglass (I think) backing on these squares because they are cork flooring. After cutting my rings with a holesaw, I hold the pieces up against a
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This has nothing to do with knots (splices) in thread. I imagine that can happen. But if you are experiencing twists, some people refer to them as kinks, then the rope (thread is just teensy, weensy rope) is coming off the spool WRONG. It sounds like the metallics are being wound like a spinning reel. If that is the case, the thread must come off the same way. Hold a spool up and take abou
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Can we order more than 7? Like 28 or 35? How bad do you want to get rid of them?
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