How would I go about using permagloss for rod finishing? The blanks are already painted and some old rods could use some refinishing. Do I clean them and apply directly, or is pre sanding with fine grit sandpaper required? Does the rod needs to turning for application and/or drying? How many rods will a 1 ounce bottle coat?
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I know there are tons of discussions on this board about how to use decals and an epoxy coating for the labels on our custom built rods. However, I have not been able to get a smooth, clean epoxy layer no matter how hard I try. Factory-built rods silkscreen (I think) the labels using a durable paint with no epoxy overcoat. Has anyone tried to do this on your builds? Is there equipment out there t
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If I were to use the two above links as a rear grip and a foregrip on a build with a Fuji standard reel seat, would the seat sit nice between the two with no visible gaps? I wasn’t sure how grips without tenons would do with those standard reel seats.
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Has anybody has any experience using a polyurethane coating for a whole rod? Something like minwax, I see a lot of guys in Europe use something called bondaseal and I was wondering if the closest thing we have to that (minwax) would work as well
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As I tweaked the alignment of the guides on my last rod before applying CP and epoxy, I questioned the accepted "knowledge" that the strength of wraps, essentially the retention of the guides on the rod, is mostly due to the thread, that the epoxy only protects the thread. If this were true then I could still tweak the alignment of the guides after the epoxy dried. Or conversely, I c
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What are some tips on how to apply PG? What do you use to clean up mistakes or square up edges? To be clear, this is for application to the thread wraps and space between split grips, NOT the whole blank. I've purchased a 1 oz. bottle and am playing around with different application methods on a scrap rod section before I commit to finished rod wraps. I have a 9 RPM rod turner; which seems
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I saw a video of a guy - tournament long distance caster - who wanted to keep his rod as light as possible (to minimize altering the blank's action) and make his guides easy to replace (he breaks quite a few). He used thread color preserver on his thread wraps. That was it. No epoxy. A rod building industry expert in the video endorsed the practice, stating that using color preserver alone was to
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What are the best ways to tint permagloss and or tinting rod finish in general and which would be the best for this application
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Does Permagloss attack the Tru-Oil finish on bamboo fly rods? I know I can test it on another surface coated with Tru-Oil, but if someone reports that it does attack Tru-Oil, I won't bother. thanks
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On my last couple of builds there appear to be small pin pricks along the length of the epoxy. Granted my epoxy is a little old at this point but I have never seen this before. They are very tiny but evident when the rod turns under the light. They lessen with each coat. I'm using Flex Coat High Build in my garage in Florida. :-) Any ideas what might be causing this? Thank you.
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Hi guy's, I've never used PermaGloss before and have a client that want a clear coat on three "14" 3piece rods. I've read somewhere on this board that one can apply a very thin coat and stan it against the wall and it wont sag. Here follows my questions: 1. I assume I can bind on the coated rod and and finish with my preferred epoxy and it would bind to it? Epoxy onto permag
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looking for some help, restoring an old HARDY fibreglass rod , clear finish was chipped and flakey and looked really bad. Stripped rod of wraps and guides and gave it a nice fine sanding to make every thing even and smooth again. Now I would like to reclear the blank before I install my new wraps. Is the any flexible clear aerosol spray any one has tried . any help or experience would be greatly
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Has anyone use the before and if so how is it and is there any other one part finishes for rods on the market
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I have a spinning rod I am building with a cedar handle and fore grip from Archies custom Handles. Would several thin layers of perma gloss work for a finish on the cedar? Thanks.
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Hi - I am refurbing my Grandfathers old rods and the first is a 7' fibreglass spin rod (The Gaslee - a reddington rod) approx 45 years old. The rod is stripped and old varnish off - any advice on how to finish it / varnish? This is my first refurb project. Thanks folks Charles
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I've tried a few application techniques with permagloss sanding it off and restarting between and it still looks bad. The rod is a retirement gift for my batalion chief at the FD and my deadline is really close. The rod needs to be white. I think I could get a good finish with Prokote as long as it would bond well with the day old Permagloss. Does anyone have any thought or advise?
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Im in the middle of rebuilding some vintage fibreglass rods which require replacing the guides and about to order some from mudhole. Since we cant post photos here, i have shared the photo in the google drive link below. The rod on the left has only 2 guides and a tip, yet ive got another rod of identical size with 4 guides plus the tip, will adding more guides be an issue? (its a bit stiffer
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So i got ahold of some electrical shrink tubing.. Big stuff, like for 750kmcm or 500mcm.. Diffrent colors.. Figured what the @#$%&, lets see what all the fuss is about with using tubing over old cork.. So i wrapped a thread to create a textured feel, used the shrink, it needed something else.. To.. Bland.. So j decided to put some thread work over top, just to see what it would look like.. We
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So far my son and I have only built on MHX blanks. Read the good reviews here about the OEM blanks and bought a 7' white med hvy blank on clearance for using plastics around light cover. Getting Fuji concept black alconite guides wrapped black with a CRB nub reel seat and carbon fiber butt and grip. We watched the Youtube video and are going to try our hand at sealing the butt and grip. We haven'
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Ok guys and gals, My dad picked up a used 5' 10" rod blank at a fishing outlet. I want to refurbish this blank. So, Im looking for advice. Everything has been stripped off except for the butt cap, which I took off. Some of the cork from the handle is still on and a couple of thread wraps are left. So any tips or advice on how to get adhesive, epoxy, cork, etc off would be great. Quite frank
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I have 4 blanks, J Kennedy Fisher Glass, that need a new top coat, either Permagloss or some equivalent. I am willing to ship these blanks to someone that knows what they are doing and could do a professional job on putting a new top coat on the blanks. While I consider myself to be a competent builder, doing this type of work myself is something that I would rather have done by someone that
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I have read about using makeup sponges to apply the permagloss to a rod blank. Does it matter what kind and could someone post a picture so I know what I am looking for? Thanks, James
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I have an old Abu Veritas blank that I'm stripping. What is the best way to remove their "yellowed" finish and what type of paint or product can I repaint it with before rebuilding? Thanks, Rick Elrod
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Permagloss used to be a heat activate product so does anybody no of a heat activated substitute like Permagloss resin.
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I have a brother who is wanting to make a couple wood handles in a shop class. I have no experience with wood handles. First question is what is a good type of wood to use for handles? Second is what is the proper way to finish the handle to seal it completely? Third question should i have him bore a hole to the largest diameter of the blank that each handle will mount too and use tap
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Has anyone applied a couple coats of Permagloss over the final coat of epoxy? Did it turn out nice? My thought is it would add some hardness and UV protection. Also, is today's formulation of Permagloss the same as it was 10 years ago and if not is it any safer to use? I have done searches, but only find 7-10 year old topics about it being banned soon (7-10 years ago) and it obviously is stil
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I just got some Rod Dancer from Mudhole. OMG. This stuff is fantastic. It will change everything about how I build rods. No more epoxy (always a harrowing experience if you have had it go bad even once). Being a hobbiest and not a pro, it's super convenient, for instance, to coat the wraps as I go instead of waiting for the whole rod to be done (I had a bunch come undone on me last night as I wor
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I am really beating a dead horse, but I want to make sure I make the most informed, and best suited choice I can. So please bare with me. So, once again, on to the 1968 Star Rod rebuild (like I said, long process). I have striped the finish from the blank completely, except from the chevrons and the hand written label. I was able to take acetone to the chevron area, and remove a small layer a
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I have finished rods both with two-part epoxy and with permagloss and I am aware of many of the pros and cons of each in terms of their application and curing. I'm still not too sure of the comparative advantages and disadvantages of these finishes in use or for use in what conditions. Advertising hype aside, what are the practical strengths and faults of these finishes when they are in use?
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I'm experimenting with permagloss in order to finish an entire blank. So far I have tried a coffee filter and a makeup-sponge. I prepared my rod in accordance to the library article. My experience with the coffee filter was that it did not coat the blank sufficiently well, although it flowed smoothly along the blank. The coffee filter resulted in streaks of unfinished portions along the blank. Th
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