Hi guy's,

I've never used PermaGloss before and have a client that want a clear coat on three "14" 3piece rods. I've read somewhere on this board that one can apply a very thin coat and stan it against the wall and it wont sag.

Here follows my questions:

1. I assume I can bind on the coated rod and and finish with my preferred epoxy and it would bind to it? Epoxy onto permagloss won't separate to leave space for saltwater to creep in?

2. Since I'm wrapping on my powerwrapper and I've seen a video where someone applied rod finish with a power wrapper hence its quicker but it's just seems to be a bit of a fuss if you have 3 piece that needs to be removed and inserted before the finish go off. Or should I just pour in enough each time for 1 section? Assuming I'm going to use a sponge paint brush, can the brush be cleaned and re-used?

3. And lastly. If I'm going to wrap the guides on with the pw, can I use masking tape on the permagloss coating to prevent the pw from making wheel marks and wont it peel the permagloss off? And after rod is complete and I'm removing the masking tape, what can I use to remove the residue from the rod that has been left by the masking tape.

I know it's quite a mouth full but I wants to get it rather close to correct. Thanks for each and everyone on this board's input!

No comment re PG - except to be sure to use a mask rated for VAPOR protection. NOT a dust mask. Get a MMM mask with VAPOR appropriate filters.
PG will %&*#@$ with your lungs and brain cells.
Also best to use it outdoors.
I speak from experience. I wouldn't touch the stuff.
Herb

Do a search for PG application methods. It's best "swiped" onto the rod blank It's not going to sag because it's ultra-thin.

..............

PG does a great job for clear coating a rod. It is very easy and fast to apply by wiping it on using a cosmetic sponge, cheese cloth, or even a coffee filter. I would not apply using a power wrapper since the rod supports will prevent complete coverage, and will give a thicker coat. I would roughen up the blank surface a little using a fine scotch brite pad or fine steel wool, and clean the blank of any dust. Since the blanks are 3 pieces, I would use a piece of old blank to extend the middle and tip sections a little to give you a bit of a handle to hold onto. Be sure to wear a pair of latex or nitrile gloves. Soak your applicator in PG, and then encircle your blank with the applicator and quickly pull it down the blank while holding the applicator firmly. This will squeegee the finish on giving a very thin coat. Only takes a few seconds to do this. You can stand the piece against the wall and move on to your next piece and repeat. A loaded applicator should be more than enough for doing the entire rod and maybe more. You can always reload the applicator with PG. If you wish you can give a second coat within 30 to 60 min. Let the PG cure over night before wrapping your rod. The epoxy wrap finish will have no problems adhering to the PG coated blank. Once cured PG is very hard and durable, no problem using masking tape, but I would use the blue painters tape which does not leave a residue.
Since you have never used PG before, practice on an old broken blank. This will certainly give you some insight on not only how to apply, but also on the properties of PG.
PG does contain an organic solvent so it does have an odor, use it in a ventilated area. I have used it for many, many years, without any problems. I store my PG in the jar containing desiccant and keep it in the refrigerator. Will last for a long time stored this way.
Hope this helps.
Norm

Jerme,
Herb is correct to be cautious, PG contains Xylene which is nasty stuff!!! Do not get it on your skin (let alone in your eyes) and use it in a well ventilated area.
All of Norman’s comments are very good ones but allow me to ad that I have found the small, round, 1/4in thick, fine-cell foam cosmetic pads work awesome; punching a hole in the center about the average diameter of the blank will afford a “squeegee” affect to minimize the thickness of the PG coat. The hole in the pad will expand for the butt end but you will have to compress it a bit for the tip end. Saturate the pad in PG, make one application pass down the blank (section) and then immediately back up and off the blank = no more than 15 seconds. Do not attempt to make a second pass until after 1 hour of cure.
One other point; If the blank has tip-over-butt ferrules, make sure to mask off the male end and use a Q-Tip to remove any PG which may have gotten inside the female end. Although PG is very thin, it will affect the fit of the ferrules.
You can use a 1in foam brush but the coat of PG will be thicker. Do not bother attempting to clean it; you’ll never remove all the PG and they are only 70 cents = throw it away.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

I’ve always used permagloss for coating the entire rod with great results. Just wondering though what would be a good alternative instead of permagloss? I used the Godabrod rod varnish years ago,didn’t really like it but it’s not available anymore.

Typically you'd want a good modern urethane and some of the water based urethane floor coating products are fairly good these days. However, I have tried many and not found any that provide the overall hardness and wearability of Perma-Gloss.

.............

I have used CPXTRA with good results, not sure if it's as hard as Permagloss. Voo Doo Rods.

I love the stuff and wouldn't think of using anything else. It's tough. I restored a 45 year old Lamiglas surf rod with it back in January and it went on without a flaw. I used some gun cleaning patches. One swipe, let dry, and then do another. Do it outside, I'm pretty sure with that smell it will cause Drain Bamage.

Question for all of you. If I was to strip down a rod, from handle to tip top, would permagloss be the recommended product to give the blank a new look and then start the rebuild with the handle and guides? Looking for something to cover the area where the handle was and the guides because the new handle is going to be shorter then the original and the guides will not be in the same place.
Thanks!
Dave

David - When you say strip down a rod I assume you mean removing everything including the blank finish and epoxy used for wrapping and gluing the handle. If you removed the finish and epoxy by scraping it off using a blade held perpendicular to the surface, you can then wet sand the blank with 1000 to 2000 grit wet/day paper to remove all remnants of finish. It almost like polishing the blank, and will not damage the blank. Once cleaned up then just clear coat with PG as outlined above. The stripped down blank will now look brand new and is now ready to refurbish.
Norm

Thank you Norm. I thought that was the case, just didn’t know if I need to sand the entire blank down or if there were some spots of the original coating, if the permagloss would go over it and not be an issue. I will sand it all down as you suggested.

All the wet sanding does is to give a uniform finish. When PG is applied you won’t have any blotches.
Norm

Hi fellow rodbuilders.

I'm truly great full for each and every piece of advice given on above mentioned topic. I feel much better to start this project. I'm just waiting for the PG to arrive, I've already got myself a vapour mask and about 30+ cosmetic sponges. I have 2 more questions to ask you please.

1. Do I have to worry about amino blush being trapped between blank and PG?

2. How strong is the fumes of the PG, I'm planning on coating the rods in my cousin's garage anyway but just wants to know how long can one smell it as I have dedicated a room in my house where my rod building is done, so I wants to know if I can coat it in the room with my mask on or should I rather stick to applying it in a garage or outdoord at all times? And how long should I wait before I can take the rod into the house after coating?

Thanks

I do it in my shop I wear gloves but no mask, and I’m still here. With ventilation the smell goes away quite quickly and I’ve never had a problem with amine blush, because PG is a moisture curing polyurethane, and it is not an epoxy. The humidity in the airs cures PG. The wipe on method is almost fool proof, you should have no problems and I’m sure you and your brain will survive.
Norm

Hi,

Should I pour some of the PG in a mixing cup or a aluminum foil dish?

Thanks

Some plastics are OK, and some don’t like PG; test first. To be on the safe side use the aluminum dish.
Norm