Lotteries, dead relatives, former oil ministers who have been jailed -- tons of them. Daily dose of drivel. And they're so transparent that it amazes me that they continue! "Send me your bank account information so I can transfer funds into your account" --- Yeah RIGHT! What's really amazing is that the FCC (or some other enforcement agency) doesn't shut this junk and the perpetrat
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Ditto here - Similar requests from Indonesia and Singapore. "Show me the money" - Send deposit to cover parts & we'll go from there (after the payment clears).
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David, I am just finishing a rod build on an American Tackle 701UL that is nice. One piece 7' long IM6 graphite blank that is rated for up to 1/4oz lures, line wt (printed on the blank says) 6-10lb test. I'm quite sure it will toss much lighter line and ought to get down to 1/8oz jigs with 2lb test line. Just an alternative to the fly-rod route (which would be much more "ultra
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Ok - well this is what I think I'm going to purchase to fill the "table saw" desire. Since I also do a bit of woood working / cabinet & trim installation for people this might fill multiple needs! Comments more than welcome! Below is the @#$%& item number. []
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Well, silly me. I thought this would be pretty easy to find --- NOT! The small 4" saws will only get a max depth of 1 inch. I was hoping for soft material to a depth of something like 1.5 - 2 inches to work with raw (unshaped) EVA or hypalon. I did look at the micromark - Nice saw Jim and thanks for that tip. I also looked at Proxxon saws but again max depth is 3/4". Oh, and since
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First _-- I have never tried to dye rattan. I think though that you'll find that the underside will take the dye but the hard shell will not. What you're dealing with is a very slick, dense surface. What you can try though is stained varnish or shellac on the grip. That should serve both the purposes that you are apparently trying to achieve. What I think you will find is that over time / wi
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Andrew -- What you propose is exactly what I did. I ordered 10 blanks and one reel seat. I'm confidant that the rod blanks will be good (and will sell - especially after I make my "donation rod for the Marland Saltwater Sportfishing Association). As for "backorder" --- well I try to keep blanks, guides, reel seats on hand locally so 1/ no one has to wonder what the components l
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Right now the handles are 'backordered' direct from American Tackle. In fact the rod blanks that I wanted are also now on backorder (843's 844's). As I usually do I told them "ship when available". I ordered 6 they had one which they are shipping to me. I only needed one as a "presentation" rod - the others I'll keep in the shop as I try to keep my own small stock of par
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Thanks, Al - See I already have a full size table saw. The "problem" is that it doesn't "live" near in the rod building workshop and the kerf of that blade is quite wide (with large teeth) for heavy ripping and cross cutting. This one would be reserved for EVA / Hypalon and small wood & plastic trim rings.
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I'm not sure what you mean by "picture inlays" - most people cut out/design their own I think. Merrick Tackle (to the left) also sells pre-cut hypalon designs (common shapes).
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Good morning - Since I've made "extra room" in the shop I'm now looking for a small table-top saw. Something along the lines of 12-16" at the base with a blade that will raise up sufficiently to cut raw EVA (say 1.5 - 2" depth of cut). Any recommendations?
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Personally I would not buy a "set of thread" but rather take the time to choose individual colors. I have (lots of) thread that I bought years ago and have never used. If you have patience (and good vision) start with Size A = it just looks better and will handle most any type of work you are likely to do.
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I have an autoscan that runs at 3AM every day. Lots of JUNK has been dropped/blocked
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Ahhh -- for the eyesight of a teenager and the on-line resources. I'd have though I died and gone to heaven. So many new ideas, new techniques even in the past year. Marbelizing, feather inlays, EVA/wood inlays with instructions, software to help lay things out, resurgence of spiral wrapped rods, more blanks than anyone could ever hope to build on, threads by more than one or two manufacturer
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Tom Are you going to have a power point at the "demo area"? If not - no problem I can work something out.
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Ray --- Any kind of music you like as part of the package was a CD burner and software to download Myles --- As I recall you get something that no one else in the world gets - long service leave. Talk about a benefit! Work paid holiday with, as I recall, that thing called a bonus. More like quelling the peasant revolt. Suppose that's a result of a country of highwaymen -- LOL
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I will try to meet / speak with as many people as possible over the course of the two days. There will be nothing for sale at my station. I will have a few saltwater fly rods and likley some surf casting rods. They will be there for people to see, handle and play with (fly rods anyway) at the indoor casting pond. Everything else will be set ups of "how a rod is made" - for the non-b
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My daughter gave me my room at the Westin in Charlotte - and a "travel bag" for the road trip - sodas, pretzels - and "travelling music" for the trip. The boys got me boxes of flies and books. My friends got me a back massager 120/12volt and a laser level (which I posted about earlier)
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Yeah --- what Billy said. Much easier to guide the line back onto a non-level wind with the guides opposite the handle. Duh-Oh!
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I think this is a personal preference thing. I like to spiral them away from the reel handle. I think this may offset any tendency of the rod to want to turn toward the first guide. I have NO proof that this "works" at all. Other people like to put them on the same side as they believe that will protect the first guide from damage if the rod/reel is placed on a casting platform.
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Myles - Rolf Harris ... "Six white boomers, snow white boomers"!
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Merry Christmas to all from a (today milder) Maryland.
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HIGHLY SUBJECTIVE: I use silk exclusively on bamboo rods - never on dark graphite/fiberglass rods. I think of silk as "warmer" and nylon as "colder" or "harsher" (more vivid colors). On Bamboo, likely because the blank underneath is light colored the silk doesn't go as dark - but yes, it does generally darken or become more transparent than nylon - with and withou
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Emory - So far this laser is not killing me on batteries. It uses two AA's. Of course I haven't used it very much either. As for the shop alignment -- well the tops are all level in both (all directions and plumb with the floor). Unfortunately as anyone who has done any remodeling (or framing) a truley "squared" wall is a rarity. So - the front alignment of the work surface cu
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Mike, The first DVD covers the basics of rod building plus a couple of extra "tricks" about labels (not as good as you can get from Decal Connection - but 85% and you can do them at home); a short segment on changing the blank color and a few other "extras". Let me be the first to admit openly that doing the first DVD was a foray into a new medium (new imaging and some pret
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Like Putter - I use the "Reveal" 100 watt bulbs in clamp on desk lamps that I got from Office depot ($10.00 each). That plus the new flourescent lamps (also daylight T-8's) work absolute wonders for seeing the true color of wraps.
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Oh - - and Myles... You win! I'm going to try an "experiment". Based on your extensive testing I'm going to send you one of the original DVDs in original format to see if relaxation of "zoning" on DVD formats will let you play this one without modification. I found your insight on the newer DVD players excellent and encouraging. Thanks for your help mate
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I got an early Christmas present that I'm playing with. It's a Ryobi air grip laser level (ELL0001). I got this gift for helping out with various projects (most of which needed "alignment"). This laser level projects a sharp vertical or horizontal beam - rather than a "dot" like most laser levels. I got it last night, loaded the batteries in it and thought "gee I wond
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Walter - Sorry I misunderstood. I thought you meant the SIZE / diameters. You are absolutely right spinning / bait casting choices are extremely limited in terms of variety of woods. \ Ken
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Avery "clear" labels have a frosty coating on them (like "transparent" scotch tape). Overspraying with a clear finish (testor's dull coat) or lacquer will cut the frosty coating. You can also do this with CP - but it's very likely that the lettering will run. Yes - you do have to apply an overcoat of epoxy afterwards to completely encase the label. As a side note and bec
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