I wonder how you'll ever put it down - spider silk is VERY sticky. LOL
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One of my less favorite tasks over the past week and a half was doing an assessment of a software package for Uncle Sam. It was really slick - tons and tons of neat things to play with changing fonts, changing language characters, morphing colors, expanding views, rotating images in three dimensions, noises you could set for different tasks/actions - unfortunately most of them were not applicabl
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I'm still "stuck in the dark ages" with a mechanical vernier caliper that reads both inches and milimeters on opposing edges. Probably nowhere near as accurate as a digital caliper... Maybe I'll ask Santa!
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Emory --- Surgical gloves are a MUST for this for sure - and doubled up at that. I did a really stupid thing a couple of years ago with fiberglass. I was playing first mate for a friend and needed to get up to the bow to kick the anchor free. I used an old antenna (fiberglas rod with electronics embedded) as a balancing point. BAD mistake. It took over a week before I was able to get en
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Skipping all around... not here yet in Maryland
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Mrs Randy Putter left a post here 'cause his "name had been taken" -- I think she was tired of listening to him groan about not being able to post! Ian / Tom are likely working to fix the problem (apparently associated with registration).
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Daniel - Tom Kirkman's book at around $15.00 is the "Buy of the Century" for anyone beginner through advanced builder. It is written very clearly with lots of excellent quality photographs. I see you have ordered it - you will be overjoyed. I would also recommend that you purchase the Clemens book "Custom Rod Thread Art" - it is the single best source for hard copy inst
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Bill, Yes, likely any chunk off a broken hollow fiberglass rod will work in the butt section. This is an area of the rod that isn't likely to flex very much. Folks can correct/comment on the next part: I think that the idea of using fiberglas inserts on mid and tip sections is that the flex of fiberglas will not further alter (too much) the original flex of a graphite rod. The earliest &qu
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Don't get married to any of the features of this > site. It's doubled my workload and I cannot > continue in this vein. Steps are being taken to > improve things and hopefully a more simply and > better user interface can be created. Nothing is > set in stone right now and more changes are l
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I think the best method available is to insert an inside length of fiberglass as near as possible to the inside taper of the original blank. Extend it well beyond the crush point - because the fractures will extend beyond the crushed area - likely several inches. Use rod bond on the inside "ferrule". Set the piece in a rod dryer (as you would use for turning guides) and allow to dry
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Christmas! Holy mackerel I thought I had a couple more shopping days left still... How do you like working with balsa? Have you fished with a balsa handle? Isn't that a little soft / not dense enough for a handle?
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My dog is VERY scared now! I laid out the mat on the garage floor (bad plan) the one car will just have to live outside for awhile. Mostly though I found crawling around on my knees too hard so I started to fabricate a dryer... not really fancy 'cause I plan on doing this only once or twice. So I converted the pull down table that I use for stained glass into a layout table that I think will wo
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We forgot to warn Ian about those down-under dronogo dodgers.
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Emory -- I have another "adventure in epoxy" experiment. I went up the street to the local boat builder and picked up some thin fiberglass woven roving and wetting/curing agent. Then went to visit a local machine shop friend of mine who tapered a 6' length of steel rod for me. My dog was happy to go with me to the machine shop but had a very nervous look on her face at the smell of
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"The blank knows not what it will be used for". Choose the blank by the size, butt diameter, tip size, length, line wt, lure wt or any other comparable measurement from manufacturer to manufacturer.
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Peggy See string below on Editing your user... He may have to have it cancelled and re-register. It's a "feature" I suppose.
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Try going to "MY CONTROL CENTER" // top of the reply box // and edit your profile.
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Well - I haven't seen the Matrix series in person only the advertizing. I'll have to reread and think about your second paragraph - with pencil/paper in hand. On your third paragraph - likely one of the best examples of what you describe is highly visible in fast taper stand-up rods. The first time I saw it I thought it was a defective blank --- then I looked at the rest of the shipment of
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I've never had any problem when ordering Stuart Tuff Butts from either MudHole or Merrick Tackle. I think it's best though to specify "STUART" Tuff Butt - or you might get something similar but not the same.
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Earlier post from Joe Meehan follows ========================================================= Re: American Titanium guides Rings? Posted by: Joe Meehan (---.ne.client2.attbi.com) Date: December 1, 2004 03:13PM Hi Noel, Expect them around the end of January. Any sooner is a possibility but I'm going to err on the side of caution. I forgot to mention the pricing will be only a bit
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I don't think they'll be available until January... There's an earlier post from Joe about this
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Emory - NO - The dog's fur is much too soft. Besides her job is to test the hanging bamboo rods to see if the varnish is cured. Since I started the workshop overhaul she's stayed out of the way. I thought by now I'd have doggie tracks all through the new paint on the floor. I think I've got her really scared of the work area now.
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Thanks, Cindy Yeah, the folks at the local Safeway are beginning to wonder what anyone could possibly do with all those measuring spoons! I gave up on mixing bowls - there's a local supplier for caterers that has disposable "condiment" cups in a couple of different sizes. When I'm finished mixing epoxy and such I just toss them out along with the brushes.
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I use plumber's "acid brushes" with the rolled metal handles. They're pretty stiff; 1/2" wide if you want them stiffer or narrower snip off the unwanted bristles. When you're done with them toss them out. Very inexpensive and no time wasted in cleaning brushes or worry about any cross contamination. For very narrow applications - tough to beat a metal spatula. I've seen them
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I'm still playing around with some of the new features. One of them appears to be that if you take the few minutes to "register" then your name and all required information will automatically appear in posts - as well as the "new" notation when a new post is added to a string. I'm sure there are others (I haven't explored the 'My Control Center') yet.
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HA ha ha ha ---- Too late! You've only seen two of the three sides in the photos. The third side of the work area is now under "destruction" in preparation for a rebuild. Besides I use click-lock flooring (Pergo-type) for the countertop surfaces. I've tested epoxy on it - wipes up easily & pops off after hardened. Heck I was so happy with the look of it I covered the new rol
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Whoops! WRONG -- it's now gone with no record of it having been there.
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Cindy --- What is your source for mica - FDA grade? I assume that is the finer of those that you mentioned? Something else for me to play with.
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Dig deeper into the mysticism / oriental culture and you'll find some other interesting things... Never "4" when written the character can also be "death". 7 is also a "bad" number and dishes/plates/cups etc. are never bought/sold in sets of 6 (not sure about that one)...
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AHA! Another new feature of the new software. The old software simply said "Post removed" now the subject remains. Very nice if someone wants to repost a day or two later they can see the original question... Very nice.
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