I am slowly going through my Gudebrod thread, and fining other thread that is close. I just hit sort of a roadblock. I have been using the HT Metallic Steel Blue 9006. I ordered a spool of Prowrap metallic Blue Steel 9850. The colors are close, but the Steel Blue has a little more blue, and the Blue steel is a little more grey. Is there another thread color that might match the Gudebrod Blue
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My Son-in-law is into shooting carp with a bow. I am not a bow shooter, so have no idea what he is thinking. He wants something short, that will screw into the bow, but will come off quickly so that he can "play" (more like reel in) the fish without having to fiddle with holding the bow. Most of the ones I have seen are very short. Basically a reel seat and 2 guides. He said that t
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I use Dr. Ph. Martin's Iridescent Calligraphy Ink. It cleans up and thins with alcohol. Dries fast, and is designed to flow through nib pens. You can mix 2 of the colors to get an other, or different shades. You don't need to cover it with CP, just run the epoxy. The Iridescent properties makes the inscription flash and glow when light hits it. I hope this isn't against the rules but here i
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John: I am old school, and spine my blanks. Once you get used to it, it is fast and simple. I put the tip of the blank, or section if it a multi piece rod, in a flat surface, I hold the other end in 1 hand and use my other hand to flex the blank or section. Rotate the blank and you will feel it jump or kick when you hit the spine. Like Glenn said, there might be 2 or 3 spines. Use the wide
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John: I am old school, and spine my blanks. Once you get used to it, it is fast and simple. I put the tip of the blank, or section if it a multi piece rod, in a flat surface, I hold the other end in 1 hand and use my other hand to flex the blank or section. Rotate the blank and you will feel it jump or kick when you hit the spine. Like Glenn said, there might be 2 or 3 spines. Use the wide
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My first thought on this would be to talk to a local gun smith or call one of the big suppliers that sell gun smith products and talk to one of their Customer service people.
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I like the Dr. Ph. Martin's Iridescent inks. I have used the "Black Sparkle", Iridescent White, Iridescent Silver, Copper, and some others. These inks thin and clean up with alcohol. You don't need CP. The great thing is they really glow in the sunlight.
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Like the above said. Spin each section. I then put 2 sections together, and spin them, and then the whole rod. I used to put the ferrule end on a table, and then flex and roll the rod section until I felt the "kick". A couple of years ago I did this and ended up with a shattered farrule end. I don't know if it was a defect in the blank, or not. I now put the tips on the table, and
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If you are close to a medical facility go to the laboratory and ask them for some tourniquets. These are 1" wide thin rubber strips. They are great for wrapping around rod sections that you want to grip. I keep some in the kitchen for opening those jar lids that want to slip. I also keep some in my tackle box for those stuck ferrule situations.
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I would call St. Croix they are very helpful. I am sure they will tell you the Factory colors they use.
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I have a couple of extra decals, and picked up a can of the krylon Acrylic Crystal clear. The instructions that come with these decals say to run a coat of epoxy and let it dry before applying the decal to the rod. I am wondering if this is necessary on blanks that have a gloss finish on them? I have some scrap blank material and am going to try it without the epoxy undercoat.
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Thanks for all of the replies. I will try the Krylon on the next rod. Roger; I had an extra decal, and tried scuffing it with some 3200 grit that I have. It cut right through the printing. am I missing something? I may just take this section back to the blank, and go up from there. I am still interested in learning how to use a hair dryer or heat gun and not have it blow stuff into the fini
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Tom: The last 2 rods were my first experience with these decals, and I called the supplier about the problem. They were the ones that said try the CP. Bill: I have been doing rods in the same area for 20 years, and didn't have much of a problem with fisheyes before. They were always small, and I could fill them in when the finish got a little thicker. I would think that if it was contamin
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Bill: I thought of this, but they are from a supplier on list, and no one else seems to have a problem with them.
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I have been at this for some time, but recently feel like I have been snake bit on running finish. I have used Flex Coat finish for 30 years. I am currently using the lite build. I have used the peel and stick decals on my last 2 rods. I have had fisheyes, and wavy finishes on both. I called the company that makes the decals, and they suggested CP over the decal. I did this and got the &quo
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I use the U-40, and then do 2 coats of a good paste wax (Like Johnson's) over this. I used to just do the paste wax. 30+ years ago I used to spray them with scotch Guard. The Wax will cause the cork to darken a little, but it makes the features in the cork stand out, and gives a semi-gloss type effect.
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I use a quill pen and Dr. Ph. Martin's Iridescent Calligraphy colors. I think there are 24 colors. This stuff actually glows when the light hits it. Thin and clean up with alcohol. No need for CP. My hands have gotten to the point that I can't do this any more. I wish I could find a printer that would accept this ink so I could do waterslide decals. I hope I am not violating any rules by p
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I have been using Anglers Workshop since it started out as a Mom and Pop place. When you called you were talking to the owners. That is 30+ years ago. I hate to see them leave the West Coast. There was no indication in the letter if Dave, Rick, and Jon were making the move. I am sure another company will appear on the West Cost. Anglers was in the perfect location with Batson, Pac Bay, Lami
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Steve who made the blank? If you know, you might contact them to see if they have tip sections for the rod. I know Sage and St. Croix are very good about this.
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Gosh, how many of us learned to build rods from the books Dale Clemens authored. I know that I sat at the table with a copy of his "Making Fiberglass Rods" sitting on my lap while I wrapped my first rod. My copy is dated 1981, and is second edition. He shared his knowledge with us through his books. He will be missed.
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My new son-in-law brought me a 9' 5 wt. 3 piece fly rod that he built from a kit. He bought the kit from a place in Chehalis, WA. Naturally it wasn't from a big store. He said it was an RX 7 or IM 7 blank. The reel seat is a Pac-Bay Rain Forest seat. The blank is a really nice dark green color. The rod was built in 2006. Pac Bay said they have never made a 3 piece 9' 5 wt. blank. Any help
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I run several coats of Johnson's paste wax on the whole thing (cork grips). Let it dry and buff it off. Be careful with some of the car waxes as they are a "Cleaner wax", and have a light abrasive. I have used Pledge in the past. Once again I spray it on and let it dry a little. If you go with car wax, look for the pure carnauba wax.
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I have been building fly rods for years. I built rods for a small fly shop at one point. I no longer do this, and don't see many blanks these days unless I buy them first sight unseen. When I was building for the shop, there were few blanks available to us. Mostly Sage, Fenwick, and LCI. Today there seems to be many. That is why I come here with questions about blanks I have no real firsthand
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I have never had any of these blanks in my hands. I am building a 9' 5 wt. rod for an occasional fly caster. I am hoping it becomes more than this. I am looking at the Batson Forecast, and Rain Shadow, and the Pac Bay, Traditions, and Rainforest blanks. I am looking for a forgiving blank, that is still good for better casters. I am sort of stuck in the $30 to $50 dollar range for the blank.
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A white PVC pipe large enough around and long enough. Finish it with 2 caps (I use one with a threaded plug and one without). You can spray paint it if it is too utilitarian.
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Thanks Tom. The information I was going on was old. I think the last one we had broke in the late 70's and was from the early 50's. I know it had a wooden core.
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Thanks all. I think I have it figured out now.
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Bill: I have read it on one of the web sites, but beyond that, My Dad was a rod builder going back into the 40's. He also did casting shows on the west coast for the Silaflex rod company before they were bought out. He was very familiar with the "Wonderod", and we owned a number of them. We also broke a number of them. The broken ones were all solid with a wood core. My Dad said t
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I am setting up a 7'6" 3 wt. blank as a spinning rod. It will be done as a 27x setup. I ordered in the Minima guides at the same time I ordered the reel seat and cork. I was going to do this with the SV guides, but when I tried to locate the sixe 20 stripper, it was way to short to work in the 18" to 22" distance from the reel face. I am going to have to go to the taller M guide
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Some if not all of the Wonderod blanks had a balsa wood core inside the blank. They were a solid rod, but not solid fiberglass. I can't help you with the model number you are looking for.
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