Mike, I really know nothing about using the small guides on a fly rod since mine were fly blanks built to spin fish, and I'm not a fly expert. Having said that, all you need do, I believe, is to make sure your connections go cleanly through the guides. That means any kind of line to leader knot, but more importantly, any kind of line to backing knot that you will use. The leader knot can be ca
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It also could be that the material is more sensitive to the heat than thought and this application wasn't as hot. It does tend to cool quickly, so the bending has to be done quite quickly. My first try was like yours with the longitudinal cracks-one up side to it is that those flats between the cracks are like the facets on a diamond, and they really catch the light. Mine were so fine that th
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Roger, fly blanks built as spinning rods have some definite niches: 1-3 wts are great ultra light rods, much more comfortable to cast than the 5-6 foot ones that are traditional, forgiving on crappie lips, and they set the hook better due to their length, wonderful with small cranks. 4-6 wts work well with the lures up to about 1/4 oz. I built a 6 into a travel spin rod for very light jigs on b
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I recommend an outer sleeve-it seems to me like using both might tend to stiffen it too much. I did an outer sleeve on a light action crankbait rod with a sleeve about 3 inches long and it works great, not even noticeable by feel, and very hard to detect by sight. The loaded curvature of the rod seems unaffected. Method per the article in the library.
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I would think it would work great, but would sure like larger running guides than what comes with the microwave. IMHO
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I've never had a guide come loose either, was just commenting on how difficult or easy to remove, which might be related to the subject. I also do no burnishing of the blank before wrapping. I've never had a guide loosen so don't want to chance screwing up the finish outside the winding.
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When I take guides off that have had their threads treated with CP all I have to do is cut into the thread at the foot of the guide, then peel it off in one big piece using a finger nail to pick at it. Without CP the thread adheres much more strongly to the blank and the guide making it much tougher to get the guide off. Finger nails often do not do the job. Pretty high tech, right?
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Don't you think it's sort of like plywood and laminated structural beams? Stronger than each component separately? All components must be done right? Also, I know many will argue with this, but having taken guides off whose windings were treated with CP and guides whose windings were not treated with CP, there is a significant difference.
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Sorry about the double post, missed the second page when I looked for the first one. There is only one video posted.
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This method looks good.
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Here's a video of a process that is pretty simple and uses no pull through. But the single thread ends are overwrapped securely.
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I've never dealt with a BatsonEnterprises person who disappointed me. Right up to and including Bill.
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The only single thread trim band I find in the library is in the article titled "narrow trim bands and thread inlays" and it is an inside single thread trim band. I think the subject here is an outside single thread trim band. Am I missing it in the library? By the way, for 2 thread and up outside trim bands the nail knot, with practice, is easy, reliable, and looks great. I find
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I've never dealt with a BatsonEnterprises person who disappointed me. Right up to and including Bill.
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Seems like a nail knot with only one loop is a lot like a simple half hitch. I think to do a single thread on the outside would require placing the thread and a pull-through loop before starting the winding, then after winding the main thread a little way, wrap the single around once then pull it under.
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Chester, regarding interpretation of blank makers' specs, and building a fly blank into a spinning blank, the fastest action fly blank, regardless of maker, will be slower than a "spinning" blank. So if you want the tradiitonal soft tip/stiffer butt UL stick with a spinning blank. If you're looking to cast very small crankbaits to specs and bluegills the fly blank, the fastest one you
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If the 8 foot length is a big priority, consider the fastest 2 or 3 weight fly blank you can find. Will still be slower than the 840, a different kind of rod, but should work ok. A good rod to have in your arsenal, shouldn't be that expensive.
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2 wt should be fine for lures about 1/8 and lighter based on my experience with a 7 1/2 foot 3 wt, which is a really great, easy to cast rod, good hook set - love it. I don't think there is any magic on guide placement- I would try a Fuji fast reduction setup or at least a 27X setup. The reel I use is a small 50 size Shimano which helps keep the overall weight very light. You will be using l
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Mike Adams and Tom Kirkman's approach is what I do and it works very well. If you just finish over a bump you'll likely have a smaller bump, but still a bump. Same solution when you get a bump from poorly trimmed thread. Cut it off, prepare the surface with scotchgard, wipe free of dust, then another coat of finish.
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The only experience I have with reels is with two reels: 1. reinforced plastic - broke 2. Reddington aluminum - works great, very good drag no complaints, didn't cost a fortune
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The descriptions of your suggested blanks make sense to me, although I would suggest a call to an expert at Mudhole to discuss the MHX blanks. I've only built one and its description was, in my opinion, off significantly from its true action. It was faster and heavier power-I should have known from the weight, but didn't pick up on it. It was very nice, just somewhat off from what I thought I w
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Why would the pricing be anything other than the most you can get out of the rod? Of course you have to manage that price point with a long term view that allows you to get repeat business and grow your business the way you want to. But when you can't sell it, it is probably too expensive. When people are knocking your doors down and you can't keep up, move the price up. Since everyone has di
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I like the feel for two-handed casting. Plus more space for decoration, like Mudhole Skinz, abalone, etc.
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For fish that run like a salmon, I would leave off the hook keeper. Things happen so fast that I don't want anything between the reel and the first guide that could catch the line. You can use the frame of the first guide for a keeper.
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Very nice, and thanks for your service.
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Gary, what Tom is saying is that with the carbon fiber, nothing under it is visible, so the advantage is to use the lightest substrate available that will meet the structural requirements, and that is probably foam. Using wood, if it is heavier than the foam, only gives you the appearance of the carbon fiber weave, but not the weight advantage of using foam under it.
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I don't think you'll be finding me trimming a $200 blank any time soon.
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I'll let those more expert than I comment on the spacing, but on the ultra-light, why not try a the fastest action 3 wt fly blank and build as a spinner. I did, and love it. I have a 500 size reel on it.
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I agree with previous postings, a great gathering, beautiful workmanship and design on display, many thanks for the sponsors for their support, and to Don Morse, who set it up and ran it well.
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There are many options for you. Look at the tiptops on this page. These are just the Fujis, I'm sure Amtak and PacBay and Batson all have micro tiptops in chrome finish that will look good with the RECs and will eliminate any questions about performance of a too big ring.
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