The short ramps in color can be done by turning reel seat shims, (or anything else, for that matter, but shims are probably the lightest) painting, then coating with epoxy (wrapping epoxy), applying decals with clear backgrounds, then applying a couple more coats of epoxy. The abalone with bending in two directions is something I haven't figured out.
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If you have the choice between LED and anything else, take the LED. Low power consumption, very reliable, last forever. Mick, take another look at the "cheaters" with higher magnification - I think you will find what you need very inexpensively. Measure your work distance at home and take a sample piece of work and the ruler to the store and check out the higher numbers.
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You are going to get recommendations up the wazoo, everyone has a favorite that works for them, but they have trouble with others. So I'll give you my recommendation, like Don, FC, two coats, wipe off the excess after a minute or two.
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I have no personal experience with EVA, but have been told by an expert that if it is finished properly it cleans up easily. Even in white:)
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Some believe that snakes pass the line better, especially the line to backing knot on salt applications. My son and I used both side by side on bones and found no difference in function. Keep in mind that single foot guides may be either wire or ceramic, the wire being lighter. Also, the material matters, especially in salt. Just because it is stated that the guide is stainless steel isn't en
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Read the "surface preparation" article in the library for an article by a real expert.
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Steve, regarding braid, 17 pound braid is fine, just don't abuse the rod with it. It's not the pound test that counts it's the drag setting and the treatment of the rod (see library article on preventing failures of graphite rods) that counts. My experience with braid as light as 6 pound test is favorable with name brand braids, which don't cut in like braids used to, especially if you use light
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Another way to turn cork off the rod blank is to use a drill press. Put the glued rings onto a threaded rod, to work on them in the drill press (double nuts on both ends). Stabilize the bottom with a small ball bearing (with an ID that matches the drill rod) mounted in a piece of 1 x 4 clamped to the "bed" of the drill press with a C clamp. This is not as good as doing it on the blan
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Along a similar line, I have found that the use of an end of a disposable brush instead of my fat index finger makes narrow trim bands a lot easier to control and finish (see article in library if you don't know what I'm talking about). The foot of a spinning reel cut off of an old never-used reel makes a nice guide for getting the alignment right on the first couple guides of a spinning rod b
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Some inks I've tried run with both epoxy and CP, so I've found the most reliable way to "fix" them is with a clear spray-on fixative like Papilio or the hardware store spray cans that say UV resistant, fast drying, clear, properties like that. It is easy to mask off the areas you don't want the spray to hit, and whether it is gloss or matte, it will be gloss after the epoxy is applied.
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Agree with Bill, CP at the edges keeps some decals from separating due to the epoxy rod finish. I always put the epoxy over all the area from one edge of the decal or wrap to the other edge. The whole section then "lights up" as one area of glossy magnificence. (hyperbole alert!)
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Take a chance on it working the way you have it without taking all the guides above the failure off. If it gives you trouble, then do the extensive repair. If you have followed Ralph's instructions it probably will not fail. Remember the dry wall principal. You have to find the point at which more work will make it worse rather than better.
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About $100/quart for translucent white, didn't see clear. Looks like it may be applied by spraying from simple spray bottles.
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If wet rod grips are a problem, problem solved. I expect it is pretty expensive.
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I have no experience with the inside repair process you are using, but it sounds like you have it well covered based on my general knowledge. The most important aspect is probably to get the proper coverage of epoxy on the repair piece. Since that part is done, the finishing steps you plan sound good to me. I have repaired on the outside a number of times successfully. Yours will look a littl
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I believe the real issue, other than spacing for balancing the stresses evenly, is where to put the guides relative to the reel. And that will not change with the length of the blank-it's all about getting the guide properly located relative to the reel. I haven't studied what info is out on the Microwave system with respect to reel spool sizes, but I suggest considering the system similar to
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Don, one other item that I think would make sense for a "seminar" is abalone. Someone who has tried all the options and has a story to tell about them would be welcome. I just tried my first rod with abolone, and while this version was supposed to be "heat and apply," it has a lot of cracks. Still looks good, but it certainly is not without cracks. Actually the cracks sor
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If I were to do a new pier rod I would use Microwave guides. While there is no guarantee of added distance, I've heard too many reports of superior distance to think they are all false.
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I've looked at every mulitple piece rod I have and every one is male=butt, butt or lower section into the forward section (female), and I've never had a bit of trouble. Some are $150 blanks. Are we sure we are all talking the same "language?" I don't remember ever seeing a multi piece rod with the lower section being female, going over/around the forward section.
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Michael, anything is worth trying, and it sounds like you've been given some good ideas on how to handle it. Here is another idea for ramps that can easily be done in white to go with your grips. If you want to know how to do these, let me know.
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I'm no expert on this issue, but I do have a pretty sensitive @#$%& detector, and it just went off. How many of the problems that the process is supposed to solve have you experienced with blanks made with other processes? I have had none. All of my very few rod failures have been because I did something stupid with the rod, and I really don't think any blank build process would have prevented
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Great grip, Stan. Would make a nice article in the magazine.
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Got it, thanks. I guess I would like to be able to run a knot through the guides of both a pike rod and a flippin stick, but different strokes. . .
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Another case of my missing something everyone else seems to get. Heavy flippin stick with micros? What are the advantages of micros on a heavy flippin stick where the casts are usually less than a boat length? And they aren't usually even casts? Don't get me wrong, I'd just like to know. thanks, Mick
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Very nice work, James!
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I also print a test on plain paper, James. That is a very good idea. Forgot to mention that. I haven't tried the paper from Papilio. The white vinyl is very thin, adheres well without tending to straighten out and lift, so doesn't require a "tie down" procedure like some of the stiffer hologram media need. By the way, if the stiffer ones are used and need to be tied down overnight I
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The best way I have found to do photo decals, and I've done a lot of them, is to print them on Papilio white vinyl media. I don't think photos will look near as good on a clear decal, but I could be wrong. 1. Use a program like Paint Shop Pro, Photshop, or MS Paint (which is on every Windows computer) to design your decal into a size that will approximately match the rod onto which it will be
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That makes them sort of "float" in space. Nice effect on a clear media decal.
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You HAVE TO HAVE a very smooth, flat surface or you will have a big mess. If the peel and stick is home printed spray it with a fixative before applying it and go around the edges with CP before epoxying over it. Epoxy tends to attack the edges, lifting them, so you want to seal them before the epoxy. If you are using white media the edges will be white after you cut it out, so blackening the
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My most comfortable seat is a simple pipe seat, up locking, with ramps off the ends of the seat the same diameter as the seat itself, made in size 18. IMHO, no seat made on a size 16 will be very comforatble for the whole day. I use ramps made of reel seat shim rigid foam material, and when coated with epoxy finish, with the same diameter as the seat, it's very comfortable. Want a palm swell
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