Thanks, Bill. There is one spot where there is a defect, but I put it on the bottom. It looks like possibly there was air in the job or separation. It is a small, like 1/4 inch area that looks lighter than the normal. The process was easier than I thought it would be, and now having done it once I can see where I will do the geometry a little different the next time to facilitate the wet appl
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Here is the final product of the butt knob discussed above. I used a rubber bumper from an auto parts store, cut it thinner, and applied it to the carbon fiber skinned knob finished to my favorite shape for butt knobs (the shape also is similar to the ramps coming off the reel seat). I am pleased with the result based on my objectives of having a simple, clean, attractive end on the skinned but
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I have built a lot of the 5SC70MF and they are very nice blanks, but I think you may want extra fast for drop shot, and the MF is what I would call fast, not extra fast. If you want something that is excellent but less expensive, look at RX8+S822.5 Rainshadow. It can be had for about $135.
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Good point , George. A comment on an ealier post, I cannot see why contacting cork is more sensitive than contacting aluminum or graphite which is glued with epoxy to the blank. Same for cork vs epoxy or rigid foam ramps. Is there a technically based argument for cork?
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The garnet without CP comes out a rich black cherry color that works wonderfully on the Rainshadow titanium finish and any black or charcoal blank. With silver metallic trim. It may also look good on the blue- just wind a section onto the blank and touch it with alcohol to see the color. It would not be my obvious choice, but it might come off well, and it is sort of unusual.
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I like the idea of turning off the rod so errors are easier to correct and the blank is not jeopardized. I do mine on a cobbled setup: 1. Drill each ring to 5/16 diameter to fit onto 5/16 threaded rod, 2. mount rings loosely onto 5/16 rod that has been waxed, 3. apply epoxy and provide compression by nuts on the rod 4. add a jam nut on each end of the grip blank, 5. slide the rod into a 5/16
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I like the idea of turning off the rod so errors are easier to correct and the blank is not jeopardized. I do mine on a cobbled setup: 1. Drill each ring to 5/16 diameter to fit onto 5/16 threaded rod, 2. mount rings loosely onto 5/16 rod that has been waxed, 3. apply epoxy and provide compression by nuts on the rod 4. add a jam nut on each end of the grip blank, 5. slide the rod into a 5/16
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I've just been working on my first carbon fiber skinned grip with Riley Rods epoxy which has a 2:1 ratio by weight (and volume, interestingly) and using the scale from them as well. I have to admit it is pretty easy and foolproof. Easier than syringes due to the lower viscosity of the epoxy which essentially measures having to wait for bubbles to clear. With 2:1 it's easy to do the calculation
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Michael Roz: Just a reminder (that I forgot last travel rod build), you'll need a large diameter rod tube when you build with high frame guides. Here's where a folding guide would be nice.
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Check out the Fuji fast reduction system with the tall guides and you can save a lot of weight along the blank, and first guide would be no bigger than a 20. Only disadvantage I see is if he wants to carry it in a tube, he'll need a pretty good sized tube to fit the tall first guide. Click on Anglers Resource - Fuji on the left. Actually any system designed for braid or 6 pound mono should
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The foam core material, like the reel seat shims I've used for years, machines so fast that I just can't believe anyone can put enough pressure on it to bend a mandrel without having the material basically machine away almost instantly. I think he's either spinning on the OD or allowing the tool/sandpaper to follow the eccentric OD when spinning on a mandrel. That would be easier to do if spinn
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I noticed on my recent build of a 7 foot spinning rod with just two reduction guides, 20 - 10 then micros to the tip that with 8 pound flouro there is little line "activity" after the size 10 guide. I haven't compared distance with other rods with the same reel and line, but it seems to me to be doing very well for distance. I'm pleased with all aspects of the setup.
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The bore of the cores, whether you make them yourself or buy them, will not be perfectly concentric with the outer diameter of the core. That is the nature of the beast-there is no way to make them perfectly concentric. But, if you do your machining on a mandrel then you will cut the excess off resulting in a perfectly concentric bore. If you clamp the outer diameter of the core and machine wi
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I'm on board, Jim, so much so I just bought reduction guides from Fuji and running guides elsewhere to accomplish just what you're talking about, the KR concept with small fly guides as running guides rather than micros. For many rods the ultimate in casting distance just doesn't matter. But passing a knot does.
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I'm on board, Jim, so much so I just bought reduction guides from Fuji and running guides elsewhere to accomplish just what you're talking about, the KR concept with small fly guides as running guides rather than micros. For many rods the ultimate in casting distance just doesn't matter. But passing a knot does.
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Here are some actual hardness numbers. I have never had any guide groove from any kind of line I've used, including a lot of braid. Tip tops, yes, old cheap ones on factory rods. I put premium material tiptops on and select the guides based on other design characteristics like corrosion resistance and appearance. I really avoid the fat, dull grey, rings as they really detract from the loo
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Here are some actual hardness numbers. I have never had any guide groove from any kind of line I've used, including a lot of braid. Tip tops, yes, old cheap ones on factory rods. I put premium material tiptops on and select the guides based on other design characteristics like corrosion resistance and appearance. I really avoid the fat, dull grey, rings as they really detract from the loo
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Here are some actual hardness numbers. I have never had any guide groove from any kind of line I've used, including a lot of braid. Tip tops, yes, old cheap ones on factory rods. I put premium material tiptops on and select the guides based on other design characteristics like corrosion resistance and appearance. I really avoid the fat, dull grey, rings as they really detract from the loo
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To take your minds off Microwave vs 27X vs quick reduction, etc, here is a question that could apply to all the systems: Given that getting the line under control fast is advantageous, and given that micros have a hard time passing knots, how do you think it would work to have the reduction guides as you prefer to initially control the line, including one micro, but then have the remaining runnin
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The floor color should be as close to white as you can get. For finding dropped micro guides :=) Not sure how you'll bend over to pick them up, though, with only 3' 3". Are you sure that will work?
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I'm no expert on the strength issues, but have built a lot of 27X and often have found that I need a first guide from one series of guides to get the height, then use lower guides for the rest of the transition guides. (Like a Y then V's) With smaller reels that is often only three guides; I expect you will need more. You are in essence doing a cone of flight system leading to one running guide.
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Balance is highly overated, in my opinion. It is often impossible to attain without sacrificing ergonomics, so which is more important to you? Also consider that as soon as you put a lure on the line, your balance point is off. I have a very expensive rod I built when I first started building that had good balance but the distance between the reel seat and the butt was so long it caught in my
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I usually don't worry as much about balance as making rods light and getting the ergonomics right for the type of fishing-with a salmon/steelhead rod I think the grip area can be longer than on some rods since I don't go from low to high tip as much which can cause snagging on the clothing. We'll see, and will try to remember to post. May not get it done until well into the fall-have some others
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Thanks, not sure how I missed the plugs. I went to an auto shop and found some plastic and rubber plugs, the rubber 1/2 in diameter, the plastic about 3/4. I don't get into the kind of battles with salt water fish you're talking about, so doubt if even a plainly finished end will be a problem. But I'll probably use one or the other of the plugs I found, if not I'll order the bigger dia ones fro
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(. . . elect which running guides come with my set. ) Now there is a good idea. Amtak could come up with a marketing plan that allowed different Amtak guides to be sold with the first three?
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Thanks for your help/comments, Bill. So far I've made ZERO carbon fiber grips. I do understand the importance of a good smooth shape on the grip and butt knob. I will use small ramps of the material coming off the reel seat. I've done a similar thing for years with what amounts to unskinned ramps finished with epoxy, which makes them hard. I think my grips are very stylish and the most c
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I'm with Russell and Jay, don't consider this a short term rod, do it right as if he were a young adult-he will be soon. I built 6 1/2 foot St. Croix (3s66mf) Avids for two of my grandkids (one male and one female) when they were only about 7 years old,and they took to them really fast, 6 1/2 was not too long for boat fishing. The rod is versatile, will handle the big fish as well as the small,
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The problem with splicing a new piece into the rod is that if the rod broke once, will it break again in a new spot? I agree that splicing works, but it won't prevent other breaks and the rod has already been proven unreliable. If you choose to start over you can use your reel seat and all guides again.
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I prefer graphite because it is lighter and more sensitive, even in the slower CB actions, usually by quite a bit. As far as durability, I expect Roger is right about the Batson blanks, but if you go with off-brand cheap blanks, they are not in any way almost impossible to break. I suggest if you're going glass , get the good stuff.
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I prefer graphite because it is lighter and more sensitive, even in the slower CB actions, usually by quite a bit. As far as durability, I expect Ron is right about the Batson blanks, but if you go with off-brand cheap blanks, they are not all very durable. I suggest if you're going glass , get the good stuff.
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