Trying to use the Minima 4 fly guides for the first time. I understand the size is in mm just wondering if they run smaller or larger on ID than regular ceramics. I looked on Pacbay site but all they give is overall length,heigth, and foot length.
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I build furled leaders for different apps. For steelhead and salmon just substitute Kevlar thread or light braid(8lb) for trout specs. They will still give you some stretch with great hook set and no worries about getting broken of frayed.
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the reel is going to be 1000 series reel,probably Shimano. I have not picked it out yet, just wondering if they would work.
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Are the flexlites from Jann's tall enough to do NGC with. I can't find any specs on guide height.
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I have not been able to get a hold them through the phone but e-mailing Vikki has worked for me. Just got done ordering some supplies and everything came through fine.
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I just got the last brochure that had the vers thread in it. Looks very interesting. I have question though on the new tiger wrap thread. Is that size a thread? does not say in the brochure or website.
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I have to do at least two coats of epoxy sometimes three to get the totaly smooth surface. Sanding in between each coat and then wether you spray on a top coat or use PG/Lumiseal brush on you have the smooth surface.
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I have also found that excess pressure when sanding the foam checkers can cause them to shift. With cork and wood checkers I always glue them up as seperate entities first, using wire ties to clamp them with. Next I glue my rings of checkers together separtley in quick grip and threaded rod clamp then glue my handle pieces together.
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Are you guys using the gel or regular?
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I have been building trolling and kayak rods using carbon skinned grips on the butt and EVA in the fore grip. The carbon slides easily out of the holder and handles the abuse very well and are very light.
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Using a dial indicator can indicate as little as .001" out of round. How much did it indicate it was?
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that is pretty cool!
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If this Spirit Lake IDAHO not Iowa I live in Sandpoint,Idaho about 30 mi North.
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I get mine from Morris Woodworking. They are a brad point and come in 8",10",12",15" and 18". It is the brad point drill style 13L. Here is the link: Point Straight Shank Drill, Style 13 They are excellent quality but are not cheap.
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Mike, I got your e-mail just have not replied yet. I live in Sandpoint up by the canadian border. Would be hard to get together for coffee. Would love to meet and talk to other builders though.
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I do love those Areo seats. The raptor with its shape is similar, with more "bling factor". Just have some questions about it.
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I like the design but , with the picture I got in the e-mail, in the uplock position it looks like your palm would ride on the threads. It also looks like it has a lot of threads. I would have to position it in the uplock, but wonder about the shape of the hump in that position. Would love to have one in hand without buying one. I am just starting a spinning rod that I was going to use an Aer
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I have to agree with the MHX downrigger rods, They work great and are very reasonably priced. Spiral wraps is also a big plus for all the reasons mentioned. I have also been putting on carbon skinned butt grips. They slide out of rod holders very smoothly and also can take the abuse of being in the rodholder and being on a boat.
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Must be lost in the mail. I will contact Tom and see about getting another. Thank you
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If you live in Idaho have you recieved 14-2 yet? I live in Sandpoint and have not recieved it yet. Iam suffering withdrawl and there is no twelve step program.
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Lemke reel seats from Pioneer Anglers are very nice and might fit the bill.
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I have built quite a few youth rods. The size I have found that seems to work best for them if they are stream fishing (wading) is a 7'6" 5wt. I agree that out of a boat an 8' would probaly be better. I have had this discussion on other boards about the length but usually the wt is always a 5 or 6. They need something they can feel load the rod and those will do that. It is my belief th
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I have redone a few of those steel casting rods. They did not use thread but colored wire soldered as as a tie off. I found fly tying micro wire in medium size to work great for that, that is if you wanted to return them as close to original as possible.
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Bill I was not able to overlap the seams with out it lifting. I am going to continue to see if I can through some other methods at a later date. I too can overlap the white inkjet paper. I coated my label and it just seems that the adhesive just won't bond to the clear finish or when I did not coat it would not stick to the ink. CP did not help. I used Chromaseal. I am thinking maybe PG the
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I did all those things. After printing I let dry for overnight under a light. I then sprayed with a Matte acrylic, let dry overnight. Paper wrapped and thread covered overnight and then applied finish. Probably overkill but it worked.
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Well through a little more experimentation and thinking about all the comments and e-mails I got about how to keep the edge down I found that the only way so far to keep the edge down was to not do a full wrap with the edge finishing on top of the decal. The edge to rod bond is sound and does not lift (2 decals is all so far) but all the different ways I tried to get an overlap to stay did not
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Bill, Here is one more piece to the puzzle I left out. I combined techniques from the Electric Decal article and your suggestions and sprayed the decal after letting the ink on the decal dry for a minimum of 8 hrs with a clear acrylic spray like the article mentioned to make handling the decal easier. I have also paper wrapped and covered with thread for overnight. The edges are down and tigh
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So far I have not been doing anything to the edge. I should have mentioned I am trying to do a full wrap with the overlap on the decal. Maybe a full wrap is not the best idea.
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The blank diameter on the one I just did about .56.
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I have been working with the holographic decal material and thanks to Bill Stevens and the Rod Maker articles on the electric decals most everything but one has worked out great. The edge that is parallel to the rod on my test ones keep lifting when the epoxy gets applied. I have done the cover and thread wrap, even left on for two days and took off and waited another day. They look great and
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