I am just hopin it is the first weekend in March so that i can attend. I see some one already said Nashville but that would be good....I think.
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James Whelan Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > When a striper hit my lure for the first time > using one of these foam core carbon handles it > felt like an electric shock. Is that a good thing or bad thing that "electric Shock"?
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I have not done the vaccum bagging but did the heat shrink (I prefer the zip ties and by hand method)and found I still had to sand down and apply a second coat of epoxy. Even with the second coat I have slight imperfections that need to get sanded out and then topcoated for that perfectly smooth finish. I have a feeling that ny method used this would be the case.
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The foam itself should move and form as the blank pushes against it. I cut the CF away at the front because it is rigid and won't flex with the blank and so as not to scratch the blank during fitting and installing. The foam is not really any more rigid than cork and can be dented with a fingernail.
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I have made quite a few for people and have not heard of any problems yet.i laways tell people when fitting to cut the carbon fiber back a little bit from the core while reaming. I have them do this so that if the fit is not quite right yet you won't scratch the blank while testing fit, but his also allowas the foam core to let the blank flex or ovalize a bit.
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I also use zip ties. I also put epoxy on my cores before sliding the sleeve down. Once I slide the sleeve down, I press the sleeving down starting at the middle and work towards each end. I then zip tie the excess sleeving out at the end and then agai right at the end of grip. I then pull the sleeve towards the rear and zip tie it against the core there.
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My trolling rods are carbon fiber foam cores rear grips and EVA fore grips
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I use my lathe and different size spade bits. I mount my spade bit in my headstock chuck. I have ground the standard point down in length and to 60 degrees approx, so that my mandrel center will ride on that. Mount the mandrel in a tailstock 3-hole chuck. Slip grip on mandrel, push mandrel up to bit, tighten everything down and then with lathe spinning the bit push grip into bit until you ge
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I find the minnima 4's in a size 5 is great for guys who use nail, surgeon,and blood knot connections, while those who use loop to loop, the size 6 is better.
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Thanks Tom. That is what my thinking was also, just wanted to make sure.
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I am building a fly/spin combo like the one outlined in the Rodmaker mag for a customer. The handle length is going to be 10.75 inches. I have a 7'6" 4pc 5wt that I am going to use for the blank. I am thinking of trimming off the 10.75 inches of handle length, as that is going to be ferruled so that the grip can be flipped flopped. I know that normally trimming slows the action and decrea
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I like the thoughts on the recoils and makes sense. What about Jann's flexlites? I know they don't flex like the recoils, but at $2 a guide(8) and $6 for recoils(8) they would give me an option to present to the customer. I have used them on UL spinning rods and liked them, just not the casting guide.
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I have a customer who wants a 10' rod for bank fishing bobber and jig with 1 oz jigs and 12# test mono. We have decided on the MHX blank-ST1204F-MHX . I am considering spiral wrapping it since he wants it in casting configuration. I spiral wrap most of my casting rods but have not dealt with one this long or with that much weight. Iceing up of guides is also a consideration on this rod, so I c
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I have had no problem with the holo and black background or black lettering. When you print did you set your printer to Photo gloss paper and best print image?
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Woodturning-woodturning design Furniture making-Fine Woodworking & Woodsmith general wood working- Wood & Workbench
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thanks guys have another ten sheets coming should be set for awhile
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Decal connection does not have any of the white waterslide decal paper anymore. I am down to my last little bit and was wondering where other people were now getting their material. I need to get some soon.....should not have waited this long.
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I use the Aero (with no fore grip unless requested)on almost all spinning rods even UL's. Just feels good under the hand.
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I do like what Tom says and coat the mandrel with wax. I also take a sharp skew chisel and make a small cut in where the mandrel meets the grip in both the front and back that helps the grip pop off.
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I have found lately to e-mail vikki directly.
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I am making a CF grip for another builder and need the hood dimension to inlet it for him. He is using a sruble U7 and all I can find is that the seat OD is .750. Is that the hood size? I think so but I am not sure.
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I like the hook and hackle fly lines for $25 online price. They come in olive color and cast nicley.
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i wish they still made the 7+, and 8+ in the fly blanks. Those were some darn good blanks for the money.
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I have used Sevier manufacturings 7'6" 3/4 wt 4pc for youth builds. They are inexpensive and cast well. I think they are around $32 a blank. I have one that is a personal rod that I use alot. They are a little faster than the rx6. The Utmost blanks would also be a steal at $18 a pop, if they have any left.
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When I was in high school (way too long ago) a guy with a big red head afro caught his hair in the lathe and pulled out a 5" dia. chunk of scalp. I have been telling my students that for 30 years now and they all have the utmost respect for the lathe. I also tell them that the longer you work with tools eventually you will get bit, and generally the safer you are the less you are bit. We
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Just got this back from Orvis themselves. "All Orvis blanks are covered under a manufacture defect in materials and workmanship only. They are not covered with the 25 Year Warranty. " So really not much different than many manufactures
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Please correct me if I am wrong but I believe that Orvis does not warranty thier blanks when sold as blanks. They only warranty in-house builds.
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Greg, Maybe I have an old catalog. I downloaded it last April or May. All I saw were the dimensions mentioned and not the actual ID of the guide. As far as the singing goes, I knew that they did. Are they as worse/better/ same as the recoils? The recoils don't bother me much but I have had some customers complain especially when paired up with sharkskin flylines. I almost always use single
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I use Tru oil mostly on the wood. When combined with burl cork I use Tru oil also. If with real cork I usually mask off the cork and just finish the wood.
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Ok great! Thanks that is what I needed to know. I am building a 5wt RX7 for a relative so I thought I would experiment on him. I have heard very good things about those guides. I am thinking a #12 stripper than 8,7,6 and then 5's for the running guides. Sound ok?
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