Pam,had not thought of that. I use paraffin and it too works great.
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Another option is to turn one out of acrylic stock.
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Gary, I use both PermaGloss/Lumiseal and spray spar urethane. I use the spray on longer(9" or more) because I cannot seem to get enough on the foam brush to complete it in one pass.
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It is probaly the DNA but skin oils can also be the culprit. Mike does not clear coat but uses just the epoxy as a final finish so yes it is hard to get rid of fisheyes once formed. I clear coat mine so sanding out the fish eyes before the final coat is not that big a deal to me but I still try to avoid. I transfer mine to a wood dowel to spray and so I always, after the transfer, sand with 600 g
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I use the search on this site all the time. If I can't find my answer then I will ask a question. I guess I would rather be an independent learner than spoon fed.
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That is kind of harsh. Some of these questions have been hashed over time and time again. Spine vs. straightest axis, spiral wrap vs. conventional, single foot vs, snake and etc. Some people are just tired of repeating themselves. Somtimes searches save both questionarres and peiple who answer a lot of time.
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I have been using Riley Rods epoxy.
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I shape the foam to desired shape. I then coat the core with the wetting epoxy, slide the sleeve on and (wearing rubber gloves) smooth out the fabric onto the epoxy on the core. I find this does two things. One it helps keep the weave straight and two it helps hold the sleeve in place whil zip tying down. I then wet out the sleeve and put it into a rod dryer for a couple of hours to spin. I tried
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I am like Tom's, 1wet coat,1 seal coat. Sand down between those two to320 gt. Sand down the seal coat to 600 gt and apply top coat.
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After they are glued up I flatten them on a sanding board (board with adhesive backed sandpaper) so that I have good glue lines when matched with the other pieces of the grip. The out side surfaces I do nothing with as they will either be danded or turned down depending on wether ist is cork or wood.
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I just got a rod in to repair. It is broken about 1/2 way down on the 2nd piece from the tip on a 4 pc 5wt fly rod. I know I can do a inner/outer sleeve repair but what about putting in a spigot ferrule there instead? Pros? cons?
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Just apply the epoxy to the handle. you do not have to let it dry and sand it will adhere just fine. Pull the cf over handle and wet out. Put it in the rod dryer and spin for a couple of hours. Let dry for 24 hrs, sand out and either lumiseal,permagloss or spray urethane spar varnish. Good to go.
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Utmost Enterprises who are sponsors here can get you both the minima and quick line blanks. I have built several of the 10' 5wts for pontoon boat fishing.They are great!
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Straight cork I leave alone. Burl cork with accents,especially birch bark, I use Tru oil. With my carbon fiber and cork I use wetting epoxy.
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The trolling rods I build all have a CF butt grip with EVA fore grips. Slide out of rod holders well and have a nice comfortable grip in the front to hold on to
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Personally I like to use Netcrafts Flexlite guides on ultralite rods. They have enough hieght to ste up 27x and are very light and would accomodate the line combo yoiu wish to use.
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I am pretty sure Dave has shut down. The website is no longer available and he has not returned calls or emails in more than 6 months. I heard he suffered some serious health problems, no specifics. It is too bad that they are no longer available. They were a very good blank at very good price and Dave was always good to talk to.
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I have been using lathes a long time(teaching shop and woodworking+using before that)and see no practical use for reverse. Variable speed yes reverse no. The only thing I can see it for is sanding maybe.
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This is how I do it on the lathe using spade bits.
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If it is me you are wondering about it is not. I live in Northern Idaho almost southern BC. I did meet Jimmy Houston last summer though, but it was not at a Texas lake and catfish were not involved.
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Anybody have any experience with this blank? I have built quite a few of the regular fly Quicklines and really like them. I have tried to research the web about the switch series and have found out very little. It would be getting used for large river trout and some steelhead.
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I might be wrong but oxygen is what causes tarnish or oxidation. I would think that the epoxy would seal out oxygen and keep it from tarnishing. The epoxy though over time will yellow.
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Got home to late dang!
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I built a fly rod for my wife's orthodontist and a house fly got trapped in the butt wrap. I pulled the fly off and it left a leg. Being I can be a smart alec and so can the orthodontist, I left the leg where it was. When I gave it to him I told him I could fix it but I thought it only fitting that a fly rod should have a fly on it. He agreed and we left it.
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E-mail sent
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All my trolling rods have carbon fiber butt grips with Eva fore grips. The CF goes in and out of the rod holders easily and hold up to the abuse of a boat rod better than cork.
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I agree! I have built around 7 or 8 in different line weights for customers and i have loved casting all of them. I am about to build 3 of their 6wt switch blanks with one of those for myself. Can't wait to use it.
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My family's prayers and thoughts are with you during this time.
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The foam actually reams easier than cork so you have to watch overreaming it. I do my reaming when the grip is complete and after inletting it for the reel seat if needed. I also slice just abit of the carbon fiber away from the front (and back if not inletted) maybe a 1mm so that the CF does not scratch the blank when fitting.
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If you are holding it all day, I agree with Roger. If it goes in a rod holder, I don't use triggers. I dislike triggers and tubular rod holders. The triggers are always catching on something.
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