I had the same thing happen when I built a "fly" rod for my wifes orthodotist. I left both hind legs in the finish and applied a 2nd coat over it. I figured it was a good omen. I wasn't going to, but whne I told him about it he loved it and wanted them kept in.
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FeatherCraft sells a product I use called ferrule wax. It is probably just parrafin, but that is what I use.
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contact Ron at Landmark Components. He can set you up and do custom engraving on tubes. Here is the link
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Anybody have half a spool or so of Black/Gold trimar? I have a a handle replacement to do for a customer and the guide wraps and butt wrap were done in Black/Gold trimar and cannot find it anywhere. Suppliers tell me that Gudebrod had something happen with the mylar in the thread and there hasn't been hardly any trimar out there for a few months. If you have some to spare I sure would appreciat
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I just have to say hats off to Sylvia and Bullard International! She read my post about the inserts I recieved from Mudhole, which I have no complaints about the customer service they gave me also, and offered me some of their inserts to try at no charge. I had to decline as I had already purchased some from their web site, but still to make that offer I thought that was outstanding!
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I purchased 2 sets from Mudhole of the one they offer. I do not know if they are the same as mentioned above, but I did start having problems with them. I did not have the puss build up but little black flecks of, I assume, rubber start showing up in the mix. When I contacted Mudhole they told me that they were starting to get reports of those inserts having problems in Epoxies with High UV in
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I got some in the Tichr and Black from Utmost.
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There is a hook, it reminds me of when a tip gets a set in it except is in the last 3". Guess i will let it finish curing, go cast it and see how it feels. I know that to my friend it won't matter if it has that little bend (I think I exagerated at 1/4" it is more like 3/32" at the most but you can definetely see it) as long as it fishes
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I was putting finish on a rod for a friend today (2nd coat) and when I got to the tip there is now suddenly about a 1/4' deflection to the right(when the opther guides are vertical) at the tip starting at about halfway between it and the first guide. Last night it was not there and now today it is. What ahppened and what can I do about it?
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Has anybody used Pac bay's DPL (the deep recessed ring) as a stripper and if so which way did you orient the guide? It looks to me it should go on oppposite (single leg towards the reel). Is that right? pac bays sight says it is for fly rods also but the double legs come up in such way they look like they would slap the line. i test cast it and it seems to do a little better (not much) with t
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The only bad hobbies are the one that could land you in jail or trying to get people to delete text messages (Tiger)
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I would definetly drill pilot holes even with self tapers. A coarser blade would generate less heat, but give a coarser cut and great chance of chip out. I would use a 60tooth combo on a table saw and a 80 on a chop/mitre saw. Just feed the material into the blade only as fast as it easily cutting it. Too slow-melting because too long a contact in one are too fast and the it bogs down and melt
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Ok that makes sense to me, except for the weight reduction part. The reason I say that is, according to Batson's chart, they had the same number of guides (10) and the smallest was a #3. I think it was a 12, 10, 4-#4 and 4-#3, so wouldn't those, even if only slightly, weigh more than tapering down? I think I will try some experiments with this and see what i come up with. thanks
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To me there are too many variables in a flyrod to get tto hung up about balancing the rod. Wether you use a uplocking or down locking seat or even slide bands. The size and weight of the reel, handle material and even the length of the rod itself can all change the balance point.
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Am I "old school". I taper my guides down from the butt (example #12 stripper,#10 guide #4's #3's #2"s and finish #1's) . I noticed when I went to the batson site that they had their guide spacing charts for their rods. On say their 9' 5 wt rods all they used were #3's and #4's. I was at a Sportsmans wharehouse the other day and was checking out the production rods of St. Croix,
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Will second that! His stuff is unique and beautiful.
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I have used this program for about 4 years now and find it pretty accurate for fly rods. Usually very little tweaking with static tests. Still do static tests though.
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I have started using the Quick- bond and I do like it.With it I mix up smaller batches ( 1 for the reel seat and 1 for the grip and arbors) instead of a single batch to do both jobs.
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It is a love hate relationship for me. I love the ease of working with rod bond and the clean up. I hate the long set up time before you can continue working on the rod, but I still use it all the time.
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The Rodbuilding tutorials.com has a tutorial on Rattan grips. He recommends flat/round. To read it here is the link
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I like a 1/2" Jacobs drill chuck to hold my mandrels. You can crank it down tighter that a regular 3-jaw lathe chuck. Both are however very handy to own. I use my 3-jaw chuck to hold my wood handle blanks to center drill with the jacobs chuck mounted in the tailstock.
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A mans bathroom should be concrete from floor to ceiling, with a big drain hole in the middle to hose the palce down a couple times a year. A toilet that could suck the power out of a black star and rotating showerheads like a car wash. My wife wouldnt go along though. We have all ahd those days! Just recently I had to rebuid a grip 3 times because I kept screwing up. This too will pass....
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i think you need to contact them to get material in the larger sizes. The web site only shows reel seat size blanks but I believe they have other sizes.
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went to the website and have actually pretty good prices for their work. Butt wrap weaves at no extra charge, feather inlays $7. If the quality is good then they are actually a "steal".
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I am probably spelling it wrong. It is a store that is setup for young adults and teenagers that sells different kinds of accessory jewelery, gag gifts, costumes and the likes. Spencers is a similar store. Look for things like thumb rings or big sized finger rings. You can find all sorts of cool designs to use. Thanks for telling me my e-mail was hidden it is no longer.
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I have built several lightweight (1-3 wt) rods using this handle from Netcraft. It is a one peice cork handle (split about 2" from butt), with slip rings. I replace the rings with accessory rings from places like Zany's. I have copied it for people who want a "fancier" handle or a better grade of cork. The cork is not bad at all(as good as many of the "flor&qu
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Just measured (weighed) TM HB on my scale. These were two unopend 2 oz bottles .. the resin weighed 86.1 grams and the hardner weighed 74.1 grams. Too much math involved to figure out the correct ratio. (lazy!) I will just stick with my normal methods.
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Thanks for the info. I figured it was too good (easy) to be true. I guess it is back to the measuring spoons.
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Has anyone ever measured out their finish by weight instead of volume? A 1:1 ratio is is the same if both liquids have the same density, but it is not if they do not. I have accurate digital scale and have been thinking about using it to weigh out my finish but do not know if this would work.
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I use Gorilla glue. I wet the wood and all thread them together like cork. The bases as long as they are a 1" in dia. at the shallowest part work for the back of the handle and I use the tips of antlers for the front. If you can get moose it is the best, has more solid material and less pith in the center.
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