i have to agree about Riley Rods! Been more than helpful with any aspect of helping me with carbon grips, from materials to techniques.
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Is there a minimum order on either material?
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Lane and Dave that is good to hear. I liked the prices and i agree simple is usually better for me. Heck i still have wind up windows and no power locks on my 2003 Dakota. Every body laughs at that but I like simple that works and continues to work for a long time. i have been wanting to also do a multiple rod dryer. If i like the singlr i may spring for that also.
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Yeah I know! I made my last one and have had many good years of service. Planning on making another one. Its just that I have some orders to get done and need one quickly with out spending a bunch just to replace with the one I am going to make. i think I'll just get one and start picking up the parts to build the other one.
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I built one for my disc sander to flatten bark rings from pine, red fir, etc. The jig runs in the mitre slot of the sander. It consists of a piece of 1 1/2" ID piece of pvc about 3 1/2" long with a cap on 1 end. the cap has a 1/4" hole in the middle. The pipe is mounted in a L-bracket 90 degrees to the disc and about an 1/8 away from the disc.to The jig runs in the mitre slo
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My 25+ yr old dryer just gave up the ghost and need to get a new one. i am going to build a multiple but need to get one to get me through until then. Does any one have any experience with the 9rpm heavy duty dryer. The price is right for what I need to get now..
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i have had my mixer for a little over a year now and was just wondering, those that have one, does your mixing rod stay in one place and spin or does it move all around the cup? I think it is supposed to stay in one spot so I hold the back of my brush against the top of it lightly so that it spins in one place. My mixes come out good but it seems like I should be able to turn it on and not ha
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John, I too would like that Excel sheet if possible. Thanks in advance dickross@hotmail.com
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I bore out all my wood and burl cork handles and use foam arbors. Never had a problem.
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I do mine as a second income and build anywhere from 1-5 rods a month. I also do rod repair for the local fishing and hunting store. It is viable but takes awhile to become somewhat consistent in having customers. At first I started out doing just fly rods, but expanded into spinning and casting rods (more bass fisherman in my area than fly fisherman). I did not start out generating any type
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I agree nice looking handle. Just wondering what made you choose to do this with EVA instead of carbon fiber/foam core, or some other materials?
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I agree. This is what the shop e-mailed me "Dick...I have the other half of that Alvi rod and the guy wants you to put a coating on the guide threads. He just brought it in yesterday." Once again the customer probaly doesn't understand (nor the shop owner) what is needed to so some repairs correctly.
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I would rather strip and rewrap that is for sure. My other repair was a fair match with color but would definetly look better with all the same. Also I am thinking that it would be quicker to rewrap than to try and clean of the finish and try to coat over and hope it comes out good. I have not picked up the rod from the shop I am doing the repair for, just got the message on what the customer w
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I just finished a repair on the bottom half of a surf casting setup ( I believe). It is supposedly the same set up that holds the world distance casting record. It must be a 12' rod ( I only saw the bottom half) that has large Alvey fiberglass reel that has a release so that it turns perpindicular to the rod for casting then flips back parallel to reel in the line. I fitted an alvey line tende
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Those are just a mitered joint cut at 30 degrees. You either need a good table saw with little or no runout or you can use a table router with a 30 degree bit. I use a table saw and set my blade using a digital angle cube. I figured out my sizes(widths of slats) using a Cad program.
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It might have been the cases I make If this is the one I get them from Landmark Components
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I built the RX7 5wt rod for my pontoon boat and drift boat fishing. I like the rod. It works very well for picking up the line and shooting it out there with out false casting.
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I build nets from time to time and have found helmans spar urethane to be excellent for finishing of nets. As far as replacement nets, the easiest way to go is to order one from measure net out of Montana. they are zip on rubberized net with a measuring ruler inside the net (good and bad). They come in many sizes from very small to boat size nets. You can also get nets from brodin, especially
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I also do repairs for a local shop and almost all of the reels seat repairs I have done, were masking tape arbors. I will say that most of those were when the builder/manufacturer tried to make up too much difference between the seat and the blank. As already stated more than a few wraps around the blank you are asking for possible problems down the road. I prefer the drywall tape for doing tho
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I warranty my work for 10 years and the blank warranty is up to the manufacturer. To me 10 years is the lifetime of a rod that being used. I do however primarily build freshwater rods.
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I think all Dave is doing now are the flyrod blanks. At least that was the impression I got the last time I ordered a batch of blanks Great bang for the buck on the blanks.
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That sounds like the rods that the people on the Columbia use for bank fishing sturgeon with. Some of those guys use catapults to cast the line out. Crazy to watch.
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Just got off the phone with Decal connection and found out some things. I use a inkjet printer (I am cheap), and the new peel and stick is not compatible with that. They do still have some of the waterslide inkjet paper, so I bought a sheet of both. Someday I need to upgrade to a laser I guess.
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I have now run out of my white waterslide inket paper for making my decals that I have been using. I have been reading here that many have changed over to the peel-n-stick from Decal Connection and was sondering what the general consesus is. I have liked the thiness of the waterslide but sometimes my big fingers and thumbs have torn the decal or had it move on me when straightening. Is the new
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I'm with Mark, cut square and center drill. I use my table saw to cut out the pieces and sometimes the bandsaw. Scuff em up, glue em up and turn with rest of handle. (But I have not used any with cork,just wood)
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Thanks guys. I .was all over that site and and several others,couldn't find the singles, found the set but not the singles As Homer says....Dohhhhh....
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I have a repair to do for a gentleman. It is a simple guide replace and wrap. The problem is he wants to match the guides and they are those cheap spin/cast white ceramic ring guides used on some box store rods. I need sz 20 and the best I can find is a guide set with sz 16 (mudhole)as the biggest. Any help in finding a supplier who handles those guides would be appreciated.
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I agree about the spiral wraps, in fact I had talked him into the sprial and then when he started talking 1/8 oz stuff, I got to second guessing myself as I had not built one that light. Duane, I was looking at basically the same blank but the RX8 822.5. Looks identical exept the 8+ is x-fast and a little heavier. I would love to talk you about your micro setup that you used as I would like to
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I have a customer who wants a smallmouth casting rod (6'8"-7' in length, 1/8-5/8 oz lures, 6-10 lb line rating, medium to medium light). He was interested in having it spiral wraped but I am wondering if there would be any advantage to spiraling on such a light action rod. He is looking to do mostly tube jigs and the like up against rip-rap banks. Opinions?
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I also use orthodontist rubber bands. I like them a lot. I have tried masking tape, flex coat guide stick, and the tubing. Using the tubing is similar but you have to cut in sections first. With bands that is done. I like how you can move things around easily while testing.
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