The biggist thing is to core them. Tom can put you on the specific Rodmaker articles that talk about that.
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The biggist thing is to core them. Tom can put you on the specific Rodmaker articles that talk about that.
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I have used the epoxy for coating carbon fiber handles over the cork ends and inlays that I put in those carbon grips. They fill gaps and gives a perfectly smooth finish. I know of another builder who sometimes uses polyurethane (5-6 coats) over his cork grips for a similar look.
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I have been getting supplies for building carbon fiber handles for quite awhile now. Usually very prompt service but every now and then he gets swamped, between guiding, building rods, building handles and keeping up with his online store.
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Another one that seems to have fallen out of fashion is the fenwick grip. It is very comfortable and also gives hand position change. Kind of a cross between a ritz and full wells.
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By your CCS ERN listing it looks like they desiginate their switch on standard fly line rating. Some companies do that and others do it by spey wt which is typically 2wts above standard fly line. My Pac Bay Quickline is rated by standard fly line rating and usess a 275 gr - 325 gr head.
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I teach rod building at my school and these look great! Will definitely get 1 to see how they work this fall.
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I teach rod building at my school and these look great! Will definitely get 1 to see how they work this fall.
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I teach rod building at my school and these look great! Will definitely get 1 to see how they work this fall.
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Don't forget the PAC bay line up. Tradition II is lighter, a bit faster and less expensive than the rx6. Rainforest is comparable to the rx7 but less and the Quickline is better than the rx8 in my opinion and less expensive. T
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Blade guide setup could also be the cause. The upper and lower stop bearing needs to be adjusted so it does not spin when there is no cutting pressure on the blade,once pressure is applied the blade touches and spins. Now adjust the blade guides so the set of the blade does not go into the guides when blade pushed up against the stop bearing. Lately adjust guides so there is about a1/32" spa
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Blade guide setup could also be the cause. The upper and lower stop bearing needs to be adjusted so it does not spin when there is no cutting pressure on the blade,once pressure is applied the blade touches and spins. Now adjust the blade guides so the set of the blade does not go into the guides when blade pushed up against the stop bearing. Lately adjust guides so there is about a1/32" spa
Forum: rodboard

Blade guide setup could also be the cause. The upper and lower stop bearing needs to be adjusted so it does not spin when there is no cutting pressure on the blade,once pressure is applied the blade touches and spins. Now adjust the blade guides so the set of the blade does not go into the guides when blade pushed up against the stop bearing. Lately adjust guides so there is about a1/32" spa
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I guess I need to clarify a few things on the repair. The repair was merely gluing on a butt cap on a uplocking reel seat on a 20+ yr old sage rod. On any type of eye repair or tip I do not tell people how to do it. The client had said that he had not fly fished in 15 years and was only doing so because his son had arranged a fishing trip in Montana at the end of June. The rod probaly was not g
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Just had a guy with a repair he could easily do himself(5 minutes). I told him what to do so he could do it. Would have been a $10 repair.I do this all the time. He took the rod with him to do the repair. Should I have not told him and done the repair or do what I did?Moral dilemma
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I have built a few of those using 4 pc 4/5 wt fly blanks using the Rodmaker mag article. I do not remember the volume and issue but it covers fit very well. i also like to use netcrafts flexlite spin guides for these set up 27x for the spinning rod (1/8 - 3/8 oz lures with 6 lb test). They will spin cast very well and do a avery accepatable job of fly casting usually a 4wt line. Fun setups to ow
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I use metal coat buttons a lot. I will also use round lapel and hat pins from the @#$%& sites. The metal buttons come in lots of styles and patterns. They are also inexpensive. The hat and lapel pins are great for military vets.
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Thanks for the info. Terry would those blanks handle the 45 lb braid the customer wants to use. We are looking at recoil guides in a spiral wrap for the ice clearing properties.
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I have a potential customer who is looking for a salmon/steelhead rod for back trolling and bouncing lead for his wife. She likes a shorter rod (7'-8') and they use up to 6 oz. of weight with 45 lb. braid. Is a Musky blank is the way to go? I am not used to using that much weight or lb. braid. Should I be looking at fiberglass, a blend? Any blank suggestions?
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Either of those would be good, even a full wells where you can rest the thumb. Those style of grips fit bigger hands better in my opinion.
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Bill, here are some photo links that show what I do. Yes the bits do have wings but are quite short in length, but they also provide the sharp cutting edge needed. spade bit-wings are just over 1/32" lathe setup cutting finished inlet
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Mine is similar to Mikes method. I put a spade bit that I have sized for particular reel seats in the headstock of the lathe. Put a drill chuck in the tailstock. Mount the grip on the mandrel and put in drill chuck and slide the tailstock up till the mandrel center is snug over the point of the spade bit. Make sure everything is tight and secure. Turn on lathe. This causes bit to turn but mandrel
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Mine is similar to Mikes method. I put a spade bit that I have sized for particular reel seats in the headstock of the lathe. Put a drill chuck in the tailstock. Mount the grip on the mandrel and put in drill chuck and slide the tailstock up till the mandrel center is snug over the point of the spade bit. Make sure everything is tight and secure. Turn on lathe. This causes bit to turn but mandrel
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I guess I should have explained better. I clean my brushes out in distilled water and the leave them in distilled water. I take it out and press it dry and use that. I do the same with my CP brushes.
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One trick I have found using TM1 is to apply with a wet brush. I get very few bubbles if any and goes on nice and thin. I think the wet brush helps by not having any air trapped in bristles of the brush.
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Having built these same rods for kids in either spin or spin cast is the Batson SP721-2 Rx 6 multi purpose blank. Won't break the bank but make a great 1st rod 2-6 lb test 1/16-1/4 oz lure. Great learning rod.
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For years tying big trolling flies and having to paint eyes on them I used the head of a 10d nail for the outside of the eye and then clip the end of small finish nail,flatten it,bevel outside edge and then use that to the pupil. That is what I now use to do alignment dots with.
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I have built many handles with antler incorporated into them. I primarily use moose because it has more bone and less pith. They can be very comfortable and light weight if bored and cored.
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Ron I am in sandpoint idaho and go mine 2weeks ago.
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I do the opposite and use a 16mm spin seat.
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