I have a rod a client would like me to repair, but I don't know how it will work out. The break is about 4" down the rod but directly under the size 3 micro. Repairing the blank is no big deal but the guide will now be lifted up by the thickness of the oversleeve. I have done this before,but not with micros. I am just wondering how to do this repair and how it will affect casting.
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Trolling rods are also a good application and I use a simple spiral. For bass rods I use Steve Gardner's method I got from him. Works great
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Trolling rods are also a good application and I use a simple spiral. For bass rods I use Steve Gardner's method I got from him. Works great
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My favorite way is to inlet a 7/8" coat button with a design on them. I get them at fabric stores. I have also used the rubber but plugs, mudhole end caps both rubber and metal. This for the carbon fiber over foam cores. You maybe asking about the straight tubular and I have no experience with them since I make the carbon fiber grips.
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Any body have any experience with these grips? Are they sanded smooth or are they textured(un sanded)? I can,t tell by the photos.
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I use Chromaseal,which is similar to flex coat, is have also used the tiger threads quite a bit. I put the first coat on heavy so that you can see excess CP. I turn by hand the whole rod. I then go back and with the brush remove the excess. Let that dry 3-4hrs and apply second coat. I put that on so I have little excess CP on the wrap and about half way up the rod,I go wipe off the excess with
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Looking for the OD of the hood on REC reel seats to be able to inlet into grip. Thanks in advance
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Thanks for all the info gentleman. We are going to go with the Pacbay QLP843 recommended by Mark. I love the fly blanks,very high quality at a great price. I am sure these will be great rods.
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I know these two usually don't go together but I have a customer who wants me to find a blank in the 6'8"-7'2" range 8-15 lb test line that he can use to throw jerks and will still work to occasionally drop shot with. Any recommendations?
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What is interesting is I do my guide epoxy with syringes, but my CF grips by weight. The current epoxy I use for grips have a distinct different viscosity. The resin is pretty typical thickness while the hardener is almost water like. It calls for mixing by volume,but by doing it by weight, I get this really nice viscosity,working time and set up time. Been doing this for a couple of years now an
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I too have built quite a few rods on those blanks. The Batson is a little faster,little lighter and more expensive but both are fine blanks. For not much more the PacBay Quickline is the best of the three. I think the Quickline is the best bang for the buck out there now. I have been trying to get ahold of the Eternity2 but will have to wait a couple more months. I used to love the old RX 7+ and
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I have made well over a hundred of these grips of all styles (fly,spin,cast, and etc.) for other builders,not including the ones for my own customers, and have never had anyone say they are slippery. Many of those grips head back east to go on big wt rods for salt or salmon/steelhead. I have many repeat customers who like them for just what Mr. Ladenheim doesn't like them for. I will say you eith
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Doug, Un hide your e-mail, I can also help you with this.
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Mudhole carries the American Tackle window seats aw-12 and aw-13 in skeleton versions also.
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Mudhole carries the American Tackle window seats aw-12 and aw-13 in skeleton versions also.
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I agree spiral wrap those puppies, only way to go. I also agree Do not use cork on the butts. I use Carbon fiber butts and Eva fore grips. I have found that the Batson....excuse me Rainshadow Rx6(RDR) blends and the MHX DR blanks are very similar.
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You stated that you wante a 2pc rod but the Batson RDR710M (1pc) would be a great blank for that line wt. I have built on most of the Batson and MHX downrigger blanks and have found that they all very good. They share one common trait-they are a fiberglass/graphite blend. A particularly strong hit on a correctly bent downrigger set up can explode a straight graphite rod. These composites can tak
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Any body built on any of the RodGeek flyrod offerings yet, and if so what were you're impressions. Thinking of adding one to my demo line up.
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Built my first rod in high school(1976). Fenwick 6wt glass rod. I did not build another till I graduated college. I am a shop teacher and like to work with my hands. I started up again when I started teaching because I could build them better and I thought cheaper. It is like tying flies, you start out thinking you are saving money,but I could have bought a @#$%& of a lot of flies for what I have
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Ok Roger thanks.
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The center pin guys have been using a regular single foot guide with a Forhan wraps for tips. You could try that
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Thanks for the replies. Still wondering if I am going to need to come in from the butt if I use an inner sleeve?
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I have a repair to do on a 1 piece rod where the tip is broken about 10" back from tip top. I have always done an internal sleeve and external sleeve on most breaks, but those have been on multi section rods. Am I going to have cut off the butt cap and piece it in from way down there (9'6" steelhead rod) or will just an oversleeve work or what other options do I have?
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I I love single foot guides on single hand rods but for switches and Spey I use snakes ( snake brand) because the do pass the bigger loops in those type of lines much easier.
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I have tried a lot of the different epoxies for carbon fiber grips. The epoxy I am now using is from Illstreets composites. It is a 2:1 ratio and no blush. It has good pot life, sets up HARD in about 18 hrs, and is thicker in consistency than rest of the non blushing epoxies I have tried. It is also less expensive than West or Riley Rods($24/qt epoxy and pint of hardener). I also get my foam fro
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Just looked at mudhole's site and the threaded mandrels are out of stock. You can have them made by a machinist in your area. I personally would not use regular threaded rod for anything but cork or foam. The steel in those are not a high grade (3 or 4) plus cutting the threads not only weakens them a bit , it will allow for flex when using them on harder materials i.e. wood,acrylics etc.
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Thanks Bill, do you have a source for those brushes?
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Thanks Bill, do you have a source for those brushes?
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I am with Bill Falcon, having made alot of these grips for myself and others, I apply the finish (PG,LS or spray urethane spar) after I sand it down. I do not sand until it is no longer tacky to the touch. I don't wait a week. I use the spray Helmsman on grips longer than 8" becuase I can't seem to get a foam brush to hold enough finish to complete the entire handle.
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One other thing one has to watch out for when using epoxies is that some of them will blush. This can cause problems with applying your top coat over that. I also use permagloss/lumiseal over the epoxy for my finish. I also sometimes use 3 coats of epoxy to get it perfectley smooth (wet layup + 2 build ups) before top coating.
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