Traded labor on fly rod for this. I got the better end of the deal.
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same just opposite view
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rubberized cork, brown burl cork and bubinga trim rings and double elliptical
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walnut with cherry and birch checker board
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First time doing a birch bark handle. The wood is Bubinga and the winding check is moose antler. The fish is a nice 16" westslope.
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FishHawk verigated Grass with PacBay TiCr(gunsmoke) metallic
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a rod I just finished for a 21 year old survivor of testicular cancer. Handle is Chinese elm, walnut/cherry checker, and hawthorne with moose antler winding check
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This case will hold either a 4 pc. rod upt to 12' or a 3 pc rod to 9'. The wood is true Mahogany and the caps were provided by Landmark components and are gold anodized aluminum.
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Built for Fred Colby owner of Laughing Dog Brewery. A Amtak Matrix 9' 4wt with wood and moose antler handle. The Mahogany case is also a part of the build.
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also pictured is a hex rod tube with anodized aluminum end caps
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top one is moose antler and mahogany the bottom one is ash/walnut with moose antler
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Wanted to see if I could get cork and antler to adhere well enough to turn turn a grip.
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Whitetail antler pedicle, brown burl cork, bubinga double ellipitacal, angled burnt cork with moose antler winding check
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I get the caps at landmark. He has them in different diameters
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These are the ones I make out of wood
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Very similar to what I use.
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No mine is shaped like a regular parting tool just smaller. I found them on both Amazon as a set, and woodturnerscaralog.com as separate units.
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No Roger that’s not it. I forgot that I had to buy a set. When I bought mine it was 3 tool set, now it’s a 5 pc set. $45 on the big "A."
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I do this all the time and the tool I use is called a micro parting tool. I got it at Penn St. Industries. It is a little over a 1/16” in width and when sharp does a great job. I cut the handle after my two coats of epoxy but before I sand down and apply the finish. After you cut it you will get a few small fibers around the cut and you can use a razor knife to trim those off. I then take a black
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I have done it before with longer pieces. I only want one glue joint as the joint doesn’t turn like the rest of the foam
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If you are going to pour enough cores,you can mix densities to get what you want. I make my own 6lb density by mixing 8 and 4 together. I have used all 3 methods for cores and have bought mud hole and Pacbay’s cores. I liked using Mike’s mold but the silicone dries out after awhile and tears or pieces tear out inside and I also seemed to get more air bubbles than the pvc or baking pan. I like the
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Do it all the time. Roger is right use a sanding board and either push or pull in one direction. If you go back and forth you can put a slight round to it.
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I get both foam and epoxy from US Composites. I use their 1:2 ratio slow cure non blushing epoxy takes longer to set up but I don't have to worry about it blushing on me like some epoxies did. As far as how many cores I get out of an order I can only guess as I have never really kept track. 30-40? You can also see my grips in the photo area under my name. I tried the pvc for my cores a few time
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I have also built 100's of these grips for my rod business and other builders and find the light sleeving works great and does not wear through. This is from large trolling rods to ultra lights. Diameter of sleeving is more important. I get the 1" and 1.25 for my builds and that has covered all the sizes I have needed so far. I use 6 lb. foam that I mix myself. All you have to do is get the
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Another option is to learn how to layup your handles on your own. You can then paint the core and then either using the carbon fiber/fiberglass sleeve or straight fiberglass sleeve, you will have the color come through the sleeve. I do not have any photos of the straight fiberglass, but when you use it besides painting the core, you can tint the epoxy to really bring the color out. Th
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Most of his blanks went for around $30-$40 but that was at least 6 years ago. Used to be my go to moderate priced blank.
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