Largest I've seen was 7/8".
Forum: rodboard

I use Aftcote and am very happy with it. I've got a bottle now that is a real good amber color. I mix up a batch, slap it on and it's clear as can be. Here's an example
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Man! I didn't know there was so much involved in making a bamboo rod. I now have a new respect for those who do it and understand why the work is worth the high dollars for which a rod would cost. I think I better stick to graphite and fiberglass blanks. LOL
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I'd like to learn to build a bamboo fly rod. What am I looking at as far as initial investment in tools and what about locating learning resources? Thanks. Steve
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I've gotten mine from Arizona Silhouette. They're only 3/4 inche square. I've turned size 16 and 17 seats with them.
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So if you spiral wrap the heavy rods there's no need for a gimbal right?
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I'm surprised that the rod had nine guides on it in the first place coming from a factory.
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Thanks for all of the responses fellas! Steve
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Thanks Tom! I just wanted to make sure before I started wrapping. Thanks for the quick response. Thanks, Steve
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I'm building a Calstar Grafighter 40-100 and plan on using Madeira threads. I was wondering would using the cp make for a weak point. I was kinda thinking that the cp wouldn't let the finish adhere to the blank as well and therefore be a risk of a guide coming loose or something since there would be a lot more pressure on the guides than on a bass or inshore rod. Thanks, Steve
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Who said anything about using the grid to space transition guides?
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Tom.....it looks like this graph will not work using the bumper system. Since the set-up guide is to be the first 180 degree guide it would make the distance between your 0 degree guide and the reel too far apart. Using the "conventional" spiral wrap system you could space the transtion guides apart as to make the 0 degree guide the correct distance from the reel. Is it ok to call i
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Thanks Tom! I know what you mean. Sometimes ya just gotta put it down, go inside, have a glass of sweet iced tea and come back later with a clear mind. ;)
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I just got through doing several test set ups with the equal angle graph and have decided it's more trouble than it's worth. Too much room for error if you don't do set it up just right. It doesn't take much error to throw the whole thing outta wack. The method of guide spacing in the library, I think, is the easiest and perferred method of guide spacing.
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I built myself a Don Morton Equal Angle Graph and have had some problems about how to exactly use it. Although it may seem simple I have had some problems. When I line the rod straight up and down and bend the tip to 90 degrees it seems the rod wants to bow outward. So with that I never could get my set-up line where it should be and when I pulled a line from the tip to the center point of the an
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I was just a little quicker than you were huh Cliff! LOL
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Just a word of safety here. I was working on my lathe polishing a mandrel. As I was working back and forth my left index finger got to close to the four jaw chuck. One of the jaws caught my finger right on the end splitting it. It also split my finger nail almost half way down. And let me tell ya, you just don't know how much you use that finger till hurts right on the very end of it. Makes typin
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I got to digging through my RM magazines and finally found it. It was in the Volume 4 Issue 6. That's was when the publication date wasn't on the front. After going through copies dated to '98 the magazine has definetly improved. Good work Tom and contributors! Thanks, Steve
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About 5 years ago Don Morton sent me the information on his guide graph. He sent me the plans to build it and how to use it. I think I lost them in moving nearly 4 years ago. Now that I finally have my shop built I'm ready to build another graph. Does anyone have a copy of how to build and use the graph? Thanks, Steve
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Doc! The tutorial is great especially for a beginner like myself. Can't thank you enough for your hard work and sharing. Thanks, Steve
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I know what IGFA stands for. I don't really know anything about parabolic. But that wasn't the topic anyway. I was just asking why is IGFA listed in the action column when looking at Calstar IGFA blanks.
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I don't know the definition of either! LOL
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Thanks Doc! I think Tom needs to put "parabolic" in the glossary section.;)
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I was looking through a sponsor's catalog and noticed the CalStar IGFA blanks. When looking at the action of the blanks it said IGFA. Exactly what is an IGFA action? Thanks, Steve
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Mike, I just cut it down the center and peeled it off. It did come off pretty easy but it does look like there were some solids left on the rod. When I applied the finish I made sure there were bubbles by hitting it with a little heat. The bubbles came later. I'm thinking I may have not soaked the threads enough. I put enough on to make the threads turn dark. May need to put on a little heavier
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I finally completed a wrap using Madeira threads and cp. After i let the cp dry for about 36 hours I applied my finish. I hit the finish with a little heat to remove the air bubbles. After about 6 hours I checked on it and every now and then was some air bubbles. I'm pretty sure it was air trapped in the threads by the cp. Any suggestions on what I might have done wrong or a way to prevent this i
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Everybody went coo coo over LS Supreme when it came out. So I wonder what will be the next greatest finish after threadmaster? ;) Still need a free sample to try and everybody's left over Aftcote. LOL
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I've been using AftCote for a while now. It does take longer to CURE but there won't be any sags after four hours. It gives me a consistent finish everytime. I've been VERY pleased with it. I've used LS Supreme(hated it) and FlexCoat. Of those two the FC was better. For those who won't use the rest of their Aftcote please feel free to send what you got to me. Just email me for the address.;) I lo
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You got it Billy!
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Billy, You haven't had a problem with the tool slipping and cutting a thread? This gudebrode bodkin is giving me fits. Do you know where I get one like you've got? Thanks, Steve
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