number 11 scapels work great and I use them every day for cutting little nubs after my frirst coat dries. I also use cuticle cutters for cutting threads close when wrapping.
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I can't say how much there is in a dash or a pinch, but a little goes a loooong way. If you add too much it can actually create a sagging problem with the epoxy and can leave a rough texture to the feel of the finish. I usaually apply my finish with a knitting needle and just touch the needle to the mixed finish in the cup and then dab it into the glitter to grap a small amount that I then a
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Some good ideas here, I think I'll probably make a small shelf on the bottom rail of the stand and secure a few rubbermaid drawers to it and also add a couple magnetic strips within reach. Thanks for the suggestions!
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Couldn't pass on an opportunity to give praise to an outstanding vendor. Mike and Vikki at "Riley Rods" went over and above to help me out of a jam on a rod build, and were great to deal with along the way. If you haven't dealt with them before take time to look at their site and give them a call. Definately a class act!
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I could use some suggestions for lathe tool storage for my new jet mini with extended bed on jet stand. I've gone from an old lathe mounted to a bench where I had everything handy to this and now could use some ideas to get me organized and keep my tools close. Thanks for any suggestions.
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Barry Thomas Sr Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I use the Tom and Billy method-Cash register tape. > Mark and save I do the same, I've got a shoe box full of rod recipes, and make one for every new blank I build on.
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Thanks for the reply Bill, this guy's a little quirky and wants what he wants. I think he's going with 2 more rods so he can have 2 with gimbals and 2 without.
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Looking for something I've never seen before and am curious if it exists. Have a client that wants gimbals on a couple inshore rods, but doesn't want them to be permanent. These rods have cork grips that are 30mm OD at the bottom of the butt. My suggestion was gimbals with removable covers, but he didn't like the look. Any suggestions?
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I have finally stepped up to a new lathe and now want to upgrade my turning tools as well . I would really like to make my own set of tools, but need some guidance; I would appreciate suggestions for tool blanks and handle standards. I am sad to say I'm presently using a very worn set of Western Auto/ Sears tools that have been sharpened right down to the nub. HELP ME. Thanks for all replies.
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I was pretty surprised to see you using a skew as well, but seemed to be the ticket for fast work. I'm curious if you glued up these blocks or they came that way, very cool patterns. I must get some to play with.
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Roger, thanks for the reply. The problem is the end of the cut, last 3/4"-1" . Bearings and shaft have no slop at all, knives razor sharp. I may need to start incorporating some waste factor if I can't figure out what changed. Regards,
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I know this is a bit off topic and I apologize. I have an old craftsman jointer that has worked perfectly for at least 30 years, but since I moved it 20 miles to the new shop it's cutting a very slight shoulder at the end of the cut, and for the life of me I can't figure out what's causing it, the blades are perfectly aligned with the outfeed table, but still the last 3/4" cuts a slight shou
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I'm finally ready to step up from an old craftsman lathe to a new Jet 10x14VS and am wondering if the recommended Jet stand will work with a bed extension. Also need suggestions for a good chuck that won't break the bank. Thanks for all replies.
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QUOTE "I never mentioned the RodMaker coupon as I wanted to see how many would find and use it" I saw it, but didn't want to cut up my magazine, paid full price with no hesitation. Had a great time, spent a lot of money, saw a lot of old friends, made a few new ones. Walt
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thanks for the detailed list, looking forward to a great show. Got to ask Steve what is the name of the Mexican Restaurant??
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Looking for a few suggestions for dinner on Friday Night, The wife will be with me, and we usually prefer locally owned. Have our ususal Saturday night reservation at our favorite spot "Blue Water Grill" Thanks for any suggestions. Walt
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Thanks JP I might talk to Woodcraft (my only local woodworking shop), but I've heard some negative comments about them. Any idea if Klingspors is going to be at the show trhis year? don't remember seeing them on the list, and I'm in need of a new lathe also????
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Sorry this isn't 100% rodbuilding related, but I can't think of a better group of folks to ask. I need a sharpening service for jointer/planer blades, as the only man I ever trusted with my vintage jointer/planer blades has passed, and I'm down to 1 dull set and one that needs a little fine tuning. Thanks for any replies, and no, I don't want to sharpen my own; I feel good about sharpening chisel
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I've done it a few times, and it really bit me in the rear once. I try to discourage it, and only do it now in rare circumstances, and only after adjusting the price accordingly. No parts warranty from me on anything I didn't provide.
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Thanks Roger, I'll give it a shot
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A bit off topic, but I'm hoping that I might have something in my rodbuilding supplies that will work. My wife broke a plastic shelf frame that holds a glass insert in our refrigerator, the replacement is 100 bucks, I'm looking for a good epoxy for bonding plastic. Any suggestions appreciated.
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I don't see any problem with it at all. There are plenty of rings and necklaces made with coins, torn sections of dollar bills used for decorative items etc. I've used coins for inlays etc, and never thought it could be a problem. I personally wouldn't sweat it, but that's just me.
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Mothers California Gold Pure Carnauba Wax, nothing else comes close IMO
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Ron, some guys use tape, small rubberbands, guide foot adhesive, etc. I use a little 1/16" masking tape to get them as straight as possible before wrapping, and when i'm through with all the wraps I site down the rod and make any final adjustments to the guides just before epoxy.
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I prefer Flex Coat UV high build, there is a bit of a learning curve but I get flawless results with it.
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Let it wick. Then, when the flow window begins to > close, take a paper towel, fold over a corner and > wet it with alcohol. Use this to wipe off the > epoxy to the level or area you desire. It will > leave a clean, crisp, sharp edge. > > ............. Tom, the problem I have from time to
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I tried a search but couldn't find the answer I was looking for. Looking for a tip on stopping epoxy from wicking into cork when making epoxy ramps etc up to a foregrip. Ocassionally I use tinted epoxy and a little wicking drives me nuts, i've tried sealing the cork using U-40 cork seal and other products, but I still get a little epoxy pulled up on the grip. Suggestions please?? Thanks
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My "Roadhouse Rods" logo goes on every rod I build, it is small and neat and I always place it on the underside of the rod, I think a top shelf custom rod without the builders name or logo would be like owning a Porsche without any badging. JMO
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Really sorry I couldn't plan to be at this one, (prior obligations) Have been crossing paths with Chuck for a while now but still haven't put a face to the name. I won't miss the next one. Glad you guys had a good event. Walt
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Looking for Gudebrod Metallic Pearl 9003 sizes A & D if anyone has a stockpile. Thanks,
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