I think it's a personal preference kind of thing. What's the diameter of the butt? I personally like St John's as a 2 axis wrap JMO
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I only use a brush for my first coat, just enough to wet the threads, then I use a knitting needle I modified to put on my flood coat. I always cut down my brushes so they are stiffer, and only clean them in acetone; I can use the same cheapo brush for 3-4 months and that's with daily use. I do tack off the brush before I use it to make sure there's nothing on it.
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Thanks Bob; I've been wondering about this for a while and never got around to testing it for myself.
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Thanks for all the replies, The one from Lowes or the ones that Roger noted and what Ron sent me are exactly what I was looking for; I've got no problem making a box for it to fit on my dryer and hardwire. Thanks again!
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a plug in timer, not hardwired; although if I can find one I like that has to be hardwired it would be easy enough to make a box for it on the dryer.
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I'm trying to find a dial timer for a drum dryer; it needs to be an inline type and I wouyld like to be able to set it for 3 hrs or so. I know I saw something similar a few years ago on a flex coat dryer buit can't find what I'm looking for through any online search querries. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
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Tom, I see that High Point was hit pretty hard with last night's storms; just wondering if you made it through OK.??
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Like comparing the little 49 cent model airplanes (you know the kind we played with as kids, balsa wood with the rubber band) to a stealth fighter IMO.
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Red and black looks great on a honey colored rod
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call renzetti, they will ship them usps (at a significant saving)if you ask; or at least they have for me in the past
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After glueing on the gimbal (I use rod bond) I use a pencil placed in one of the gimbal slots and then sight down the rod and rotate the gimbal to a point where the pencil is lined up with the guides.
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Thanks guys, spar urethane it is.
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trying to keep the finish as thin as possible and really didn't want to use pg if i didn't have to. never heard anything one way or the other good or bad, but then again I rarely use graphite tubing, and have never finished over it.
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Building a small diameter rod that requires a rather large decal; rear grip is woven graphite tube and that's where he wants the decal to go. What's going to be best finish over the decal &graphite tube without using epoxy? I was thinking Spar Urethane or Krylon clear acrylic. I've never tried to finish over this material, and with the addition of the decal I'd like to get it right on t
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There have been occasions when my marbling coat came out a little lumpy because I went too heavy or was getting my last colors in a little past their pot life. After it gets hard just lightly block sand (don't cut into the thread) with a fine grit paper to smooth it all out, and recoat. Should be perfect when you're done.
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Roger and his staff are certainly top notch and really stand behind their products. I recall getting a Saturday evening call several years ago from one of his staff when I was having a problem with a slip clutch on a dryer. I have missed seeing Roger the past 2 years in High Point and hope he can make it again if the shows continue; he is one of the nicest most decent people you could ever tal
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I just went through this several months ago, there is a definate difference in the shaft between the Flex coat and the one for pac bay. I wound up with both motors and still haven't used either of them yet. You should call Mudhole and talk to someone to see if they know how to make the cheaper one fit your flexcoat. If you do a search for hankscraft motors (model E) you might come up with
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sorry Justin, I didn't realize there were any issues with availability.
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pretty standard stuff, Mudhole and many others that stock fuji should have all this in stock. Just look at the list on the left and click; most will take you right to their respective sites.
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I believe what you saw were Jaws grips for their vertical jigging rods; definately check acid rod
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It's a long dark slippery slope full of many spent dollars; It's an addiction for sure.
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Lynn, Will you have any of the rod tip tools for Renzetti lathes with you at the show? If so please hold one for me. thanks, Walt
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I hope it's not because of visions of big bucks rolling in; I haven't heard of many wealthy rod builders unless they had money before they started building. For me, I build because I love doing it; and I'm pretty happy just making enough money to keep building.
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The seat should fit your hand. Order one large > enough to do that and shim to fit the blank. > > A spinning rod will typically require a larger > seat than a casting rod since your hand holds the > seat. I would suggest an absolute minimum of an > 18. You may find a 20 more comfortable. &g
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Depending on the reel a 16mm or 17mm should work just fine, if your looking for one of the blank exposed reel seats mark the blank where the seat will fit and measure the diameter with calipers; you'll need that number for a close fit for your 16mm or 17mm seat.
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The only thing I use is a mini chop saw I bought from Harbour Freight and put an abrasive wheel on; I think everything was less than 40 bucks, and I've used the same wheel to cut many, many blanks. I do wrap the blank with masking tape where I'm cutting to prevent splintering.
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Looking for split grip (cork with gold checks) components for a surf rod, I will be using a 20mm reel seat and the center of the seat will be 29inches from the butt. the very bottom of the butt is 22.6mm. I realize that I can search through a lot of lists from the mfgrs and put together what I need; but I was hoping someone might be able to point me toward one of our sponsors that is a little
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I've had my share of those days, and I doubt you'll find many on this board that can't sympathize with you. No good deed goes unpunished.
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All good responses above, but my advice is if you're not completely happy with it now, you already know the answer; cut it off and start over, it's only a little thread and a little time. Tom's right, finish is a great magnifier of little mistakes.
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As far as I know, no email, no website; I have their business card and it does not show either. Every time I've done business with them it has been via phone.
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