CFX is a company in Oregon, looking on their site the only 5 inch spey rear grip they show is also that way.
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I use a citrus paint stripper, if you are going to bare blank you should have no evidence of prior guides, etc. when done. I end up with minor scraping to do also, but not much.
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About 3 months ago we had this discussion about twitching (jigging) for Chinook Salmon, Aleks Maslov from NFC advised that the HS 821-1, whose listed rating is for soaking a large plug and sinker in current, would also do well throwing twitching jigs from 3/8 to a max of 1.5 oz. though the max so far for chinook jigs seems to be 1 oz., so far. Search for "Twitching for Chinook" time per
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If you watch the videos they always throw a big DF guide on the scale, the reason? When you throw the SF little guides on the difference matters much less, the smaller the guides the more you have to use on the scale during the test to get a reliable difference, than you have to do the math to get your real difference. When that happens in my book there is no real difference. When using micros yo
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The smaller the guides, the less difference there is in weight, the when you are in the 4 mm and smaller you have to use 20 guides of each to measure the difference reliabily. Where it is important at the tip, it isn't, depending on what you use.
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I have 4 of their blanks built into rods, the XMG 50 9ft. 6 in. 7 wt., two each Perigee 5-6 wt., and a 9 wt. Perigee, I hear they have a new line coming out, but don't remember just what.
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Best bet for your need in carbon fiber is using tube material that will after a little resizing it slip right over the existing grip, install a new butt cap and you're done. It comes in two diameters .920" or .980" ID. Lengths to 60 inches are available.
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Check out the European sites.
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I use Snake Brand guides, my 4 wt. have 1/0t tip guides, 5 wt. have 1/0s, the 6 wt. have 1s. Even my 1 wt. rods run a 10 ceramic stripper, 3/0t snakes. 12 mm strippers on all your choices, all single ceramics, #4 are about the same ID as a 12 mm ceramic, same for a 10 mm ceramic and a #3, a #1 is about the same ID as a 6 mm ceramic.
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I like the Fuji IPS/VSS and Wiebe/Super Sticker reel seats both ways. leaning more to uplocking on bass, trout, etc. rods, but just the opposite on salmon/steelhead rods. I find the less smooth transition from grip to the reel seat uncomfortable uplocking on the Aero. G Loomis uses the Wiebe/Super Sticker reel seat design to this day uplocking.
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I think I would look for the NFC blank in Delta material for pier fishing, I'd want the added durability. Another composite blank would be the Thrasher BSC 7806. My favorite pompano rod was the G Loomis 941 for beach fishing, but I never threw that heavy a lure, it was lighter powered than the 981..
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Rod building is a mix and match world, maybe one of the winding checks from the gear rod or fly rod lines will work, give the Batson folks a call, they do this kind of thing on their builds all the time.
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Myself I would go two piece like the NFC HS 7600-2, 2piece. Since it works so well on plugs (designed for it), Lindy rigging, and I have caught chinook salmon to 25 lbs. on one in the Columbia River, walleye fishing a worm rig. I accidentally caught 2 Spring Chinook on the Willamette River while shad fishing, the 13-15 lb. footballs were hooked on a #8 Siwash hook attached to a #1 Dick Nite trout
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Get with a Pac Bay dealer and see what they can do. Utmost found me the components for my Seeker Super Seeker salmon rod, there may still be some out there to be had.
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NFC 703 or 704 Pelagic saltwater blanks, I have caught your fish and much larger on both. Myself, I would grab the 703, but I have no idea how much lead and bait you are using, by the way the 703 should read 1 - 3 oz. not lbs. I'm usually a shrimp man with Mangroves.
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NFC 703 or 704 Pelagic saltwater blanks, I have caught your fish and much larger on both. Myself, I would grab the 703, but I have no idea how much lead and bait you are using, by the way the 703 should read 1 - 3 oz. not lbs.
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Like the earlier New Guide Concept, there is a difference between using the guides and using the guides and the actual concept they were designed for. On production rods they have no idea what reel you are going to put on the rod, if you used a 5000 and mono, are a 6000 and heavier braid they need to have designed for it. If there was any chance you may use monofilament or fluorocarbon in the fut
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Personally, I preferred the Wiebe/Super Sticker spinning seat if I wanted a swell to the rear grip, the proprietary Edge Black Widow seat that is US made also looks like a nice design.
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I guess if you buy the reel, anything you put it on becomes a BFS?
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Every Aero reel seat I have ever used will take the nut off every brand of reel seat I have tried and vice versa, why reinvent the wheel when you build something when there are so many examples of good results out there? No one is reinventing the nut and bolt, I know I would want something I was familiar with and could mix and match if I was ordering for a large rod company.
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Ed, Have you looked at the Fuji KDPS video on the Fuji site to the left? I think it would cover your concerns. Right at the top of the video page.
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If you used the 6 ft. 2 in. model, wouldn't you have your length and the fit you need?
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Sisiyou Aviary has great feathers, Lure Parts Online has kept me happy over the years. As long as you're don't go to exotic any fly shop that has a fly tying section will have a pretty good variety.
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Try 4 1/8, 8 3/4, 13, 18 5/8, 24 5/8, 33 1/2, 44 1/2, 56 1/2, 69 3/8" and then you're going to have to figure out your transition guides in there somewhere around the last couple guides point, as I have no idea what you like. I myself would never put that long a rear grip on the rod, it will hang up on everything you want to do while fishing, especially with foul weather gear on, 14 inches i
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Are we talking about the Flexcoat spade bits with the 1/4 inch arbored end?
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Straightest axis and stiffest axis go hand in hand many times.
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5 months, I would think Miles long ago made his blank choice.
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I use a hack saw to remove reel seats, not as fast, but much easier to gauge when to quit without hitting the blank. Much easier to cut at an angle. Put a screwdriver in your cut and twist, I have yet to see a reel seat that won't give way doing this.
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Double Post.
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I've always found the SJ blanks to be pretty much what I expected, they are no MB blanks, back in the day the G Loomis rod catalogs had very good descriptions of their rods and an alphabetical list of what they thought were the fish this rod could be used to catch, looking at the species vs presentations that may match the species variety gave me a pretty good idea of what to expect. For the SJ r
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