The oldest Sage price I have for your 080SLT and 181SLT are $255 and $257.50 respectively.
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As in many things in rod building and elsewhere, things are passed on mouth to mouth without the person giving the information actually ever seeing it happen. I have personally not seen or ever had a rod returned because of a guide failure due to CP usage and I myself use it a lot on my personal rods because I pick specific colors I want preserved along with the glow from the thread. I also do no
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0 and 1 power rods don't seem to be near as popular as the used to be, The XP, SP, SPL SLT rods all have their champions, 2 piece won't be as popular a the 3 and four piece, some go completely gaga over the 5 piece models. The GSP series are nice, but you don't see them much due to cost I believe. Sage has spent a lot of time and money trying to get the actions of these old rods with their high e
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Maybe one of the two part paints they use on RC airplanes, cars, etc.
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United Composites.
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The industry has been going away from direct contact seats for some time now, got to get that extra $10 out of you, and it's so much easier for them during production.
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My apologies, they snuck a new one in on me, Even had its own sneaky category, I learn something new everyday.
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Huh, your specs don't match the earlier or current specs for line and lure ratings on that blank. Butt and tip match, but line rating is 6 to 10, lure rating is 1/4 to 1/2 oz. in both earlier (2019) and recent catalogs and they hold no mention of recommended presentation uses you posted. Most be specific rating given by Git Bit or whoever you bought from. My specs are Batson company specs.
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My choice for distance and slinging light weight would have been the 9 1/2 ft, light powered Rainshadow, your rod has a 5.5 tip I believe, the other a 4 tip, yours low lure weight is 1/4 oz. the IST 1141 F is 1/16 oz. Schneider's to the left shows they have some at around half price. Durability, they have been catching steelhead, salmon and trout with those blanks for decades and decades. I use m
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Wrappers are not lathes, things like this happen, everything can flex, have you checked the bed to see if it is still tight, the larger and heavier your rod and components are the more likely this will happen as you swing more weight around. I've been lucky with my Custom Power Wrapper, it's made with mini lathe parts and has great for near 30 years, I have a few times had the work pinched in two
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The shooter series of MHX blanks are available, but he is definitely time poor right now. Cutting a foot off would definitely reduce my pleasure as a casting tool overtime, my son still uses the rod I built him 44 years ago, depends on the attitudes of the kids also whether or not they will use this rod long-term..
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If you select the library to the right in the black banner the article on static distribution guide layout will allow you to complete your rod and any other type or style you may encounter in the future.
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Two options, paint the blanks flat black, or you can scuff a shiny black blank with X Fine scotchgard pad, you can test your result under the grip area first, I have done that to flat finish clear coated blanks. Klass Kote epoxy paint is used on RC airplanes, etc, and it can be purchased in a flat finish.
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R. B. Meiser developed shorter spey rods decades ago, if there is anyone who may have some direct insight for you he would be my choice to talk to.
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Mike, If you go with Geoff's suggestion, Schneider's to the left has those blanks on sale in their "Hot Specials" section, can take a bit of the sting out of your search for the "One".
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I believe Elliott rods/blanks are tied to Thorne Bros.
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Fuji used the size runners they do because in their casting tests going smaller according to them didn't improve performance, they didn't say it hindered it either and they were using a stiff 8 lb. fluorocarbon to boot. They were not concerned with weight like you are. I've passed your line and leader through 3 mm guides without issue, but I also wasn't throwing your minimum weight lures, frankly
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Without seeing what you got, hard to tell. If you use tape arbors it is important that it be a good quality light tan tape, NOT the blue stuff that has the wrong adhesive for our needs. You than have to completely encapsulate the tape in epoxy to make it waterproof, massive amounts of epoxy not necessary, just seal it up good. you than have to pick your favorite style grip, not what you see in ca
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Since Vivian Todd works for Mudhole and before was the blank designer for Lamiglas, I'm not surprised by them using the term Mag Taper, they used it quite a bit in Lamiglas descriptions. The 68 MXF blanks you see from our sponsors and others are going to be close in the tip, but probably not have the power of your 843 in the butt. I used a classic G Loomis MBR 843 C, MH for jigging lakers in Lake
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Only you will know how large your knots on the fly line are, the blank, the reel, nothing matters except the fly lines you will be using and the knots involved.
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CFX is a company in Oregon, looking on their site the only 5 inch spey rear grip they show is also that way.
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I use a citrus paint stripper, if you are going to bare blank you should have no evidence of prior guides, etc. when done. I end up with minor scraping to do also, but not much.
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About 3 months ago we had this discussion about twitching (jigging) for Chinook Salmon, Aleks Maslov from NFC advised that the HS 821-1, whose listed rating is for soaking a large plug and sinker in current, would also do well throwing twitching jigs from 3/8 to a max of 1.5 oz. though the max so far for chinook jigs seems to be 1 oz., so far. Search for "Twitching for Chinook" time per
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If you watch the videos they always throw a big DF guide on the scale, the reason? When you throw the SF little guides on the difference matters much less, the smaller the guides the more you have to use on the scale during the test to get a reliable difference, than you have to do the math to get your real difference. When that happens in my book there is no real difference. When using micros yo
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The smaller the guides, the less difference there is in weight, the when you are in the 4 mm and smaller you have to use 20 guides of each to measure the difference reliabily. Where it is important at the tip, it isn't, depending on what you use.
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I have 4 of their blanks built into rods, the XMG 50 9ft. 6 in. 7 wt., two each Perigee 5-6 wt., and a 9 wt. Perigee, I hear they have a new line coming out, but don't remember just what.
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Best bet for your need in carbon fiber is using tube material that will after a little resizing it slip right over the existing grip, install a new butt cap and you're done. It comes in two diameters .920" or .980" ID. Lengths to 60 inches are available.
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Check out the European sites.
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I use Snake Brand guides, my 4 wt. have 1/0t tip guides, 5 wt. have 1/0s, the 6 wt. have 1s. Even my 1 wt. rods run a 10 ceramic stripper, 3/0t snakes. 12 mm strippers on all your choices, all single ceramics, #4 are about the same ID as a 12 mm ceramic, same for a 10 mm ceramic and a #3, a #1 is about the same ID as a 6 mm ceramic.
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I like the Fuji IPS/VSS and Wiebe/Super Sticker reel seats both ways. leaning more to uplocking on bass, trout, etc. rods, but just the opposite on salmon/steelhead rods. I find the less smooth transition from grip to the reel seat uncomfortable uplocking on the Aero. G Loomis uses the Wiebe/Super Sticker reel seat design to this day uplocking.
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