YLI and sulky are both great. The yli is also marketed by Fish hawk.
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Thanks to all.
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Has anyone tried fuji ice blue. I need triim bands for a couple rods. Dont have the gudebrod or know where to get it.
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I am having trouble finding a metallic close to the color of a St Croix blue -green flip. All help appreciated.
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Don't like it. Finding blanks is a pain.
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Don't like it. Finding blanks is a pain.
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Thanks for all the input. 2 of the rods that will definitely need rewrapped are 1950 era steel Heddon Pals with brownstone finish and wrapped in maroon and green silk. I would like to duplicate the original rods as close as possible. Does anyone know what would be the correct thread and finish to use.
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Thanks for all the input. 2 of the rods that will definitely need rewrapped are 1950 era steel Heddon Pals with brownstone finish and wrapped in maroon and green silk. I would like to duplicate the original rods as close as possible. Does anyone know what would be the correct thread and finish to use.
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I need advice on refinishing thread wraps ( thread is good but finish is in not, will not rewrap) on vintage 50's ,60's, and 70's rods. Iam not sure of prep and type of finish. A advice appreciated.
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I recently have been collecting 1950,60, and 70,s Heddon and Garcia Conolon rods, many of which have metal ferrules and most of them are hard to join and take apart. I need some advice on whats best to return them to proper condition. These are really awesome rods, I especially like the Heddons. Thanks in advance
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When will they be available?
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When will they be available?
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I saw some online a year or so ago, might have been on the Matagi site but I can't find them there now. I have a couple of the lew's but they aren't quite what i,m looking for. I like the Fenwick Lunkerstik handles but I only see them with rods.
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I am looking for reproduction vintage casting handles, similar to 1970's Fenwick handles. All help appreciated.
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I use dental ligatures (very small o rings) to hold the micros in place. They won't solve the flexing of the tip section of the rod but certainlyfree up both hands, they are cheap and work amazing.
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I have never used the g-flex but have used a lot of flex coat hi-build. I never use the lite because you can simply achieve a very lite finish with the hi-build by wicking off what you don't want. This is extremely easy with a lathe and I many times put 3 coats on the ultra light bait casters I build and still get a very thin finish. I have found flex coat to be very versatile and easy to use.
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Thanks Scott, That is exactly the case. I,ll try again , before using on a rod, with less CP. How many coats of chromaseal do you use?
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I recently bought some polyester embroidery thread in several twist colors.On a sample blank I tried each color with CP and then finish, urethane and then finish, and finish alone. To my surprise the only samples that repelled the finish were the ones with CP. I used 2 flood coats and let them dry overnight before applying the finish. Has this happened to any of you . I used a very popular bran
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Flexcoat. Very reliable and easy to use with great results.
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As a rule of thumb you can convert the fly rod weight to 16th's. a 3 wt would be rated for 3/16 oz, a 4 wt to 4/16 and so on. This is not exact but will get you started. I believe you will find fly blanks will meet your needs extremely well.
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There are many good choices when it comes to blanks, but if I had to go with only one St. Croix would easily be my choice. Great quality, innovation, service, etc. In fact I can't think of anything but good to say about the company.
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Does the Mettler polysheen require color preserver?
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I don't believe spirals limit casting distance. IMO they are a must on light and ultralight casting rods. On ultralight casting rods the tip section will twist in a very scary fashion if guides are on top. I found this out the hard way 30 years age when I built a 4 wt. fly blank as a casting rod.
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Has anyone used the Sulky Polylite threads for rod building?
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Regarding why I would want a spiral on a flipping stick. Less strain on guides and blank with fewer guides. I haven't built a casting rod with the guides on top since the days of "Robert's Wraps" about 40 years ago. The advantages and necessities of a spiral are certainly more magnified on the UL casting rods I have built through the years but they are certainly also present on all rods
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I build quite a few rods a year but very few bass rods, and those are for finesse applications. Ive got a St Croix SC479HMF and a SC576MHMF coming, What do you guys recommend for guides especially in the mid and tip sections. I build spirals exclusively and prefer the lightest setup that will work. All help appreciated.
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You can find great info on the Anglers Resource - Fuji web site about guide placement. I use dental o-rings to hold the micros in place, They work great and are very cheap on the big @#$%& site. I use 2 on each guide. I cut the first one off as soon as the thread climbs on the guide foot and the second when there are enough wraps to secure the guide.
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My next SCV will get FishHawk silk sparkle. With the SCV I would probably go with the 238-sil, it would look better than good with the titanium guides.
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Putting underwraps with micros would be anti-produstive. I use micros with the shortest wrap that I can get away with on a particular blank. They are very easy to wrap and finish. My favorite micro thread, FishHawk Silver Sparkle, very easy to apply finish over and looks fantastic!.
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Mitch, I have the xmg spin-jig Lami and have been using it to fish for white bass for the last 6 years. It is a great small river rod . I think you would find it a dream for river smallies. It will handle the baits you listed very well, I use a Revo Premier with mine and it is one of my all time favorites.
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