Rick, Great thought. But, you might consider the following: Rather than moving along the rod as you build - have the rod move in front of you as you remain stationary. Granted, to do this, one needs the length in the room to be able to move the power wrapper back and forth over the bench. But, if you have 5-6 feet of room on each end of a rod, the rod can be moved 5 feet in eit
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Often, when wrapping a light color on a dark blank; some builders do an underwrap in silver. If you prefer a look - that is the result of such a practice, go for it. Take care
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Ken, Check the price for both commercially produced rods as well as rods from other builders. This is particularly important to check all sources in your particular area. Prices vary greatly, depending on location as well as the affluence or lack there of - of fishermen in the area. As the cardinal rule of the free market -- charge the price that fits the depth of the pockets in t
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Take a piece of solid rod blank and use it to create an extension to your current reamer. Or, simply build a new reamer that is longer and of a size that will suit your needs.
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Or: [] [] []
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Phillip, I agree with you 100% on the use of round files to use when creating grips. Here are the files and the prep work completed on the files to make them useful to me as I do the work: I have an abrasive disk cut off wheel that I use when making changes to the files. I first cut off any end on the file that is triangular shaped that is commonly used with these files for a handle
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Kendall, Well said --- "if the angler takes care rigging." However, there are many anglers, that just want to go fishing and will grab a rod, paying little attention to how it is rigged - but still want to do a good job. Hence, the use of the larger guides, when the rod is going to be used by different folks - including folks who have never fished before. Best wishes
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Kyle - Simply put, you need to use Fused Silica: A definition: Here are many many different variations of the same product -- Fumed_silica. Pick and choose. Or go to Voodoo Rods and buy their Marbling Mud. However, it is the same thing sold by others in larger quantities. Best wishes.
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Dominic, I make the simple rule that if I want to use bobber stops and knots on my line - I simply do no smaller than size 6 guides and I have never had an issue. At the end of the day, the difference between #6 and #4 is not all that much, but the knot and heavy line passage with #6 guides is simply easier than it is with size #4 or smaller guides. Your choice. If you tie on # 3.5
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ditto Mr. Kirkmans suggestion. The only change to that, is that I use a dremel tool with an abrasive cut off wheel. Just be careful, not to cut into the blank. Take it slow and steady and you will get it right. I just run a vertical cut down one side of the seat and another vertical cut on the opposite side of the reel seat. Put a screw driver into the slit and give it a twist and of
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1/8th inch past the start and end of the wraps and the guide foot. Insure a perfect water seal.
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Lawrence, Please state exactly which lathe you own? Thanks much Roger
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Lawrence, Is this the lathe that you purchased? If so, it is a good one and will take care of your needs very well. Additional supplies needed: 3 jaw chuck - at least 3 inch and a 4 inch is nice as well. 1/2 inch keyless chuck with an Mt2 taper. A live tail stock: For example: -- A set of center drill countersink set: --- This set of tools is really nice to use to drill
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In addition to John's comment: Go easy on the trimming. Only trim 1/2 inch at a time. It surprises a lot of folks who a very small change in the tip section can result in some pretty big changes in the overall action of some rods, at a certain place in the tip trimming. Easy to make multiple trims. But, once too much has been trimmed the blank has been ruined. Best wishes
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Pretty simple if you have a lathe or a similar device to spin an object. Start with a thick walled butt cap or eva. Create a mandrel on the end of a potential holder for the cap by simply adding layers of masking tape on the object that you have inserted into the chuck. In past times, I have used 1/2 inch steel, 5/8th steel or solid fiberglass blank material. If the end of your rod butt
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The other thing you can do it to simply take an exacto standard triangle shaped blade in a standard blade holder. Simply insert the blade into each side of each guide and while maintaining very light pressure on the blade, spin it around. If there is an issue with a guide, the blade will hang up at the defect. Even extreme pressure of an exacto blade on any ceramic lined guide will
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If you happen to have a lathe and a precision rod rest, this setup insures a perfectly centered hole every time. You can use a series of drills to get up to the smallest hole in the grip and then, convert to a tapered reamer for the final clean up and fitting to the blank. In each case, by spinning the grip, and holding the drill bit or reamer stationary, you are 100% guaranteed that the thr
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Ditto Chris.
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Just cut 1/8th of an inch off your reel foot and you will be good to go. After cutting, thin the freshly cut foot if necessary. Over the years, I have run into this issue a couple of times, and I always solved it by adjusting the reel foot - with the use of a grinder, file and a belt sander. It only takes a couple of minutes to solve the issue.
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15 lb power pro makes a wonderful pull thread with 0 issues.
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Tim, I am a bit puzzled about your statement about using a different guide height to prevent damage from tornadoes??? Having said that, one should be concerned about being out on a big body of water when weather is threatening and the chance for lightning is immanent. This is a sort story of an event that happened to our fishing party in my boat one day many years ago. Several friends
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Guy, - Raymond. A couple of thoughts. 1. Lose the razor blade, and rather purchase a Dr. Slicks fly tying scissor and use that. I have used the same pair of scissors to snip thread, as I used when I first purchased a pair based on the advice of my rod wrapping teacher many many years ago. I sharpen the scissors ever several years. 2. For pull thread, forget about using wrapping thre
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David, Also, this is a really nice rod as delivered from Loomis, I would purchase another rod that is better suited for your needs before making any changes to the Loomis. But, keep the loomis as well and if it doesn't suit you for one need, then use it for a use that does suit you. Best wishes.
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David, Also, this is a really nice rod as delivered from Loomis, I would purchase another rod that is better suited for your needs before making any changes to the Loomis. But, keep the loomis as well and if it doesn't suit you for one need, then use it for a use that does suit you. Best wishes.
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David, As others have said. Take the rod, put a reel on it that you like with line on it that you like and go casting and see how it goes. Remarkably small guides can handle many different lines with no issues. So, I would certainly try using it, fishing with it, and casting with it - with various weights and various lines and see how it works out. Best wishes.
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I also use masking tape for thin arbors. But, I will add one note: i.e. I use masking tape strips with a narrow band between each of the strips. This allows epoxy to have a full reach from the inside of the reel seat to the blank itself. Then, this also causes each strip of epoxy to become encapsulated in epoxy and thus impervious to any moisture intrusion that might ever make its way towa
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Over the years, if I have ever felt that there was a need; I would use a si or equivalent rod tip top to insure non grooving for a particular type of rod that might be susceptible to line grooving due to the line and or type of use. But, other than the tip top - no issues at all with any line in any condition used with non ceramic rod guides. Best wishes.
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Glenn, I always wrap my rod joint with a wrap that is about 1 1/2 inches long. Then, when it comes time to apply finish, I wrap the smaller end of the rod with a piece of wax paper before installing the smaller section. By having the smaller section in the larger joint, there is no danger of getting finish inside the rod. Also, by using a wax paper mount on the smaller side of the j
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Especially for an ultra light, the pac bay minima stainless guides work just fine. A tall size 20, then sv down to 12 and on down to 8 with size 5.5 or 6 runners to the tip. You can spend more money on guides, but you will never see any distance in casting, nor any difference in feel. With the ultra light configuration you will not have any guide wear issues. If you wish you could u
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