I'm wondering of there is a source for old/vintage-style all-metal aluminum fly reel seats in the down-locking style. The newer machined seats are too bulky for what I'm looking for and are usually up-locking anyway. I've found some older all metal seats listed as spinning reel seats on an @#$%& site, usually lacking a cap on the end. Is this what older fly rods used long ago? is there a NOS sour
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Thanks for the offer Tom, but i let my subscription run out a few years ago. The good news is the seller who offers these blanks has said in an email over night that he would accept the blank returned. eric fresno, ca.
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Herb, i don't think that will work if the knocking is taking place inside the blank's middle section, where it seems to be happening. i think your first suggestion is the best. neither the tip section nor the butt section of the three-piece bank is involved with the ticking. Tom, i'm curious now. consider it part of my evolving education with blanks. what is the easy fix? and how does one dete
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Herb, i don't think that will work if the knocking is taking place inside the blank's middle section, where it seems to be happening. i think your first suggestion is the best. neither the tip section nor the butt section of the three-piece bank is involved with the ticking. Tom, i'm curious now. consider it part of my evolving education with blanks. what is the easy fix? and how does one dete
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I think the best thing would be to return the blank and move on as Bill and Randolph have suggested, but i often find myself a bit of a glutton for punishment. and i find myself attempting to fool myself into believing this may be a small lesson in blank repair. at least by trying to completely diagnose the issue (before probable return) tom, i think i may have isolated the ticking to just the
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I have a new light trout budget-priced fiberglass fly rod (7' 3 piece) which has two issues. I've been playing phone tag with the company i bought it from and I'm hoping an exchange may be a solution. If not, I'm hoping someone here has experience and can offer some solutions. first: this is a spigot ferrule blank. the tip and middle sections have about a quarter inch of space when assembled.
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Modern fiberglass fly blank offerings from US$30 to US$300. There's really no point in resisting... :) eric fresno, ca.
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Good info here. The answer to your original question regarding functionality is Yes, it could make a difference. And let me add, worth pursuing. There are a ton of fly rod grip styles which can make this decision daunting, and if you turn your own, many more variations compared to what is sold pre-made. If you're partial to the half wells grip shape as you stated, is it because you're most fam
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Thanks Eric. Yup, i've seen that and it's at the top of my list for ready-made offerings. eric fresno, ca.
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I think it's time to go wander the aisles at a local hardware store... eric fresno, ca.
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With all of that neoprene, i could make up a bunch, paint the PVC caps silver, and then come up with a cool name! thanks everyone -eric fresno, ca.
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Both Titebond II and III work fine. III is finer. but both are good. much easier to work with and easier cleanup than two-part epoxy. From the limitations specs at Titebond's web site, notice that neither is for "continuous submersion." Tom W's right, big difference between resistant and proof. Titebond II Premium: ..."passes the ANSI Type II water-resistance specification.Titeb
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Thank you Roger and Lou. I'm open to others' input as well, though this completely covers one approach, probably the most popular from internet searches and photo perusing at this site last night (early morning?) and Lou, i think that's the first time i've heard anyone suggest a solution for power failures. smart boy-scout thinking there. The motor I have (and i wish i knew more about elect
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I'm replacing the motor on my rod dryer and would like to improve the chuck assembly too. The new motor is the same diameter as the old one so it should be an easy swap. Aside from creating a chuck from a PVC cap and rubber bands, I'm tossing about the idea of buying a three-jaw "replacement" chuck from one of the main companies (pacbay/AT/batson) and somehow connecting that to the coup
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Why does he want to replace it? Was the original damaged and he wants another, or does he want to replace it with something better? This is a $36 fly rod, extraordinarily inexpensive where fly rods are concerned. If he wanted to move up there are plenty of options. close your eyes and throw a dart. I found the Purist listed as IM6. Perhaps a Batson RX6 blank would work. as for checking the CCS
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I wrapped my daughter a Forecast RX6 7'6" 4 piece for 4wt line and it works so well, i love fishing it myself on small to medium sized streams for trout in the central Sierra out here in California. Roll casting is great. I fished a 8 foot for 4 weight RX6 last weekend with dries and that was fun too. Streams were anywhere from 10-20 feet across and wind was not a factor. I also have an R
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Stephen your email address is hidden in your profile. I could send you a helpful link if you would unhide it or contact me through my email address. eric fresno, ca.
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right. Tradition II is Pacific Bay RX6 is Batson Enterprises eric fresno, ca.
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"and the last one I will ever buy" interesting. mind telling me why? private message would be fine. eric fresno, ca.
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is this his first fishing of the season? has he taken a break over the winter? could be technique. eric fresno, ca.
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as an alternative, there is a premier fly rod company (four characters in its name) that offers a specialty rod which might fit the bill. they mark this rod's line requirements in grains, not weights, but it might work and they might offer it as a blank. specifically made for bass. try unhiding your email address and you might get more responses. :) PS: ok, i see now Mudhole offers three opti
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9 foot in length is standard for a fly rod. sounds like a 9 foot, 7wt 4 piece Batson RX6 would work well and not break the bank. maybe even an RX7. many other options of course, but these would be a good starting point. try a full wells cork grip on that, maybe even a short removable fighting butt. i wrapped a 7 wt RX7 for largemouth/striped bass using a Pacific Bay Channel Lock (CL8?) all alu
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wouldn't the off-white colored polyurethane grip arbors flex coat offers work perfectly for this application? they're meant for reel seats but end to end two could suffice. i'm just speculating though. eric fresno, ca.
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the others have offered some tips. but the first thing mentioned should have been this: Gloss finish/slipping is normal. :) this is your first time, with practice you'll get the hang of it. there's no need to score the finish. take 5-10 turns at the start with tension, and then increase the tension. eric fresno, ca. (I guess that needed reinforcement! lol)
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the others have offered some tips. but the first thing mentioned should have been this: Gloss finish/slipping is normal. :) this is your first time, with practice you'll get the hang of it. there's no need to score the finish. eric fresno, ca.
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one of the newer fiberglass blanks? eric fresno, ca.
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harbor freight has that lathe at $194. Rockler has it on sale at $199. if you don't have a 20% off coupon... eric fresno, ca.
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Thank you gary. I might add, the older classic rods and their makers, at least in my mind, focused more on the rod as a fishing tool rather than a work of art in regards to the grip, hence my suggestion to research older shapes. modern bamboo rod makers, at least from the photos i've seen, often create silky smooth grips that approach art. to the original poster, good luck gary. show us what y
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I don't think the predominant use of reverse half well grips on major (and minor) branded fly rods was determined by best function criteria. it's just a "standard" someone started and everyone jumped on board. it works. but for many, a different style could be better. the fenwick-style grip has fallen off the radar of many but once you use it, you'll wonder about the use of reverse h
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thanks gentlemen. for this setup, i'll cut the rod down short. say, 14 inches i think. the only chuck involved is the one on a cordless drill, but i'll kee the opposite end short as well. and forgo any oiling or suchness. now that info is posted for others who may need it in the future. eric
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