Anthony, wow - I saw your rods, beautiful! Thank you for your advice. I was thinking about a "lipstic" but I hesitate to use this, for two reasons: first, I do not want to add weight to the construction, secondly I am afraid of stiffening this portion of the blank where lipstic lays, therefore I am thinking rather about some decorative-protective thread. I guess I will make a thread,
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Hello, Fuji rod components catalogue for the year 2006 :) features (page 42) a WCH winding check for the KN-type foregrip. Now I wonder are there any "rules" concerning choosing and mounting WCH winding check? I mean particularly the I.D. of the winding check and O.D. of the blank parameters: should I take winding check with the I.D. matching exactly the O.D. of the blank, or s
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Hi fellas, I would just let you know about excellent service of one of the board sponsors :) even though I am sure many of you already know that Recently I bought 4 blanks (lamies and seeker) from Anglers Workshop, and since they were going to travel half the world to me I asked Dave Lyons to prepare the package for the harsh transportation conditions. And I really received what I expect
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Did sth happen to them? Does anyone know? I send a couple of e-mails but received no answer... Generally I am looking for merrick tackle retailer or someone else who can provide painted trigger reel seats (like matagi or andrews fishing)...
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Okay, I think I got it. Thank you very much. There is one more question I woldn't like miss a chance to ask: is it possible to "amplify" the original vibrations somehow (by the use of specific materials or design) so that the fishermen feels bites or lure movements (e.g jighead contacts with bottom obstacles) stronger?
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@Mark thank you for this info. Guys, if it is correct that stainless steel is the most efficient material as far as transmittion is concerned, then maybe it would be advisable to make SS arbors for the tube-type reel seats? They would need some special design of course so that not to "cut" the blank surface when the rod would be under heavy load, but such a design I guess would b
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@Emory, @Chris thank you for joining the thread, I can only confirm your thoughts about braided line and reel palming, actually I started to wonder to what extend "all-metal" reel can enhance transmittion of the vibrations, but that is I guess not exactly a rod-building forum issue :) thx again!
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Tom, thank you, again, for this broad explanation. Sometimes, for the novice like me, it is hard to verify how much of the truth is in all this advertisements and so on. Luckily, I've found this site and can count on You and other wonderful people here. Thank you for information regarding Rich Forhan. If I live in US, I would be the first in the queue to shake Your or Rich hand, unfortunatell
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Hello again :) I've read very interesting articles by Harry Emory in two of the backissues of The Rodmaker Magazine I ordered, related to blank construction. The message of those articles is clear: when we seek for the sensitive rod, we should make it as light as possible. I've heard some opinions, that hook-keeper and foregrip add some weight to the rod while not really being necessary,
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Thank you Tom! That solves the problem for me! Thanks God for this site!
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Tom, thank you very much for you answer, please let me precise my question a little bit: If you say to "move a guide up a tad" I am asking about this "tad". Let's imagine that I have a 2-piece blank, and that the upper (tip) section of this blank has female ferrule with overlap 2" long. Now, the stress concentration, if I got the quoted discussion right, in such sit
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Hello, I know that similiar question had been asked: but since I could not find (or understand ;) ) exact explanation of this very interesting subject, I would like to bring this issue again. Okay, so we've got stress concentration in front of the ferrule (where the overlap ends). Now, if I HAVE TO put the guide in this area (because the line path dictates so) and I still can move
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@Everyone Thank you very much for taking part in this thread. I've read all your opinions with a great interest. You disilusioned me a little bit as regards "resonant cavities" :) - looks like I will have to wait for another "breakthrough"...however, I have a friend who was fishing for the northern pike lately and fish were suprisingly delicate with taking the bait (swimbaits
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Fred, I think you made a good point stating that "if those same components were assembled with the user input a custom rod builder uses it would be better than a rod built to please the masses". While I completely agree with that, the problem I have is that I think those components are not available for a custom rod builder. I mean very specific blanks those rods utilize and, for
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Hello everyone, much was written and said about the superiority of custom rods in comparison to so-called factory rods. While I agree with this general opinion as regards the majority of factory rods, I wonder what do you think about 'top' factory rods from Japan, I mean rods made by manufacturers like Megabass, Evergreen etc? I had a couple of such rods in my hand, and while I could discus
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Bill :) as you rightly guessed English is not my native language. Although I can only guess the meaning of " Where U At?" I think my answer should be: "No, but I'd love to"
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Jim, I went through the "New Concept Primer" in the Rodmaker Magazine which I am proud :) subscriber of, already, and my questions are one of the results of this lecture. Thank you for the advice regarding underwraps and thread. The reel is 4000 series with spool 2.05" outer diamter - I reckon #30 stripper ring should be just fine.
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Hello rodmakers :) I have a blank in front of me: Talon 8'6" MXF2. Hot-shot blank, with sensitive tip (4.5) and very powerfull thick wall butt section (20lb and IMHO it is at least). I would like it to be med-hvy spinning rod. 1/ To utilize stiff and powerfull butt section I decided to use #30 SV type of guide on the butt section. Just one, because of relatively long reargrip (~14"
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@Tom, I feel truly honoured that you replied my e-mail. My address: friko77@wp.pl should work, but in case it bounces back, please try: tymendorf@poczta.onet.pl as well. @Mike, Raymond thank you very
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Hello everyone, I would like to contribute somehow to this remarkable site, and since my friend works in a lab with professional digital scale I decided to publish some guides weight specs. I am very impressed with Rodmaker Magazine articles, an since it was indicated that rod weight, components weight and so on is the very area where a rodbuilder should devote attention, I hope this will be
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Henry Engle Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have the IS781 mounted with a daiwa pixy finese > bait caster i have use this rod for a full season > now and love the blank. Its light weight and > powerful very stiff tip and action. One draw back > I feel is the rateings seem to be over estimated > to me. Everything seems to be one size or h
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Steve, I wish I knew your question earlier! Now when I go on holiday, I will not have an access to the lab digital scale for at least 2 weeks. But if I were to bet my money, I would follow Matt explanation, form my experience alconite is a coparatively heavy guide when we consider guide-to-guide comparison. I like it though, because it is better looking than hardloy :)
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Hello Rodbuilders, this time I need your help with a spinning rod setup. I have an 'old reliable' Talon rod, and would like to change the TT for the very light guide (currently PST flanged) Now, I would like the new TT to be titan frame guide. The first guide from TT is LV-type #6. As far as I got orintated, after "LV" I should finish the rod wit "P" TT. But it is so
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@Tom @Cliff @Billy @Bill everybody, I am very glad I started such an interesting discussion :) From my observation I would agree that the guide weight is located mostly within the frame. If I got @Tom right, "LV" type of frame is lighter, and somehow shorter, than "Y" type of frame. And I could not find "LV" frame with Alconite ring (like... (B)LVAG ? for
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@Billy sure I can do that, but weren't Alconites advertised as "lighter" than Hardloys ???
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Bill Stevens Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Try this and see if your surprise is constant. > > Compare FUJI Concept Alconite BLNAG 12 > > To: > > Forecast, Amtak or Pac Bay casting style N series > 304 Frame with TiCH coating and Hardloy Ring in a > 12 ring. > > Better still do a typical set weight. 12 BLNAG - &g
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@Billy good remark. I weighted BYAG (Alconites) vs. BLVLG (Hardloys) guides.
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@Matt, thank you for your kind interest in this matter. It would mean that the weight of Fuji SIC and HARDLOY guides is... much the same, with Alconites being the HEAVIEST Fuji guides.... (excluding TT, as I mentioned).
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Hello everyone, I would like to share with you the effect of lab test of fuji spinning guides weight comparison, between Hardloy and Alconite guides. Here they are: H, 30 size - 5,2922 vs. A, 30 size - 5,9342 For me, this is a great surprise. I always thought that Alconites are LIGHTER than Hardloys, not vice versa ! It seems theat the only case the Alconite guide is actually l
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Rich Handrick Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > they utilize very long rods and these > high framed guides. The idea is to keep the line > far away from the blank - why, I don't know. @Rich When the line gets wet it sticks to the blank and therefore makes casting more difficult, especially when using light baits. Second reason could be, that whe
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