Awesome site indeed, @Andy ! Seems that Toray G1000T material has the best strength (Ksi) vs moduls (Msi) ratio - does any one produce rods /blanks out of this ? :) @Billy IMC series were made of IM6 and XC of IM700 ? Or opposite - I am not sure
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Hello everyone, I hope for some kind of "independant" explanation, because I got confused with Lamiglas information about material they use to produce blanks/rods In general, two questions: 1/ Does anyone know whether there is a difference between IM700 and Certified Pro material? (Not IM700 Titanium, just IM700) 2/ Does anyone know whether there is a difference between G100
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Thank you Ron, I've already contacted you at your e-mail addresss :)
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Thank you gentleman for your, as always, kind advice
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Hello again, I am afraid I have to bother you gentleman with another question, but this time it will be - maybe - question to the sponsors rather? I live in Europe, where access to the rod blanks is rather limited. So I started to look for the ways to buy blanks in US and ship them to my place. Unfortunatelly, it occured that shippment prices are rather high... in certain e-shops. So my
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@Donald, I am a total newcomer in this noble gathering, but from my experience I may tell you that you should measure the O.D. of the blank in the place the exposed-blank trigger reel seat will be mounted, and then buy a seat with corresponding I.D.
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@Ted @bill @Cliff - thank you very much! :) Frankly speaking it is the first time I hear someone consider trimming the blank from the top - I alway thought that this is rather dangerous because when blank is wrapped around the mandrel the tip top section seems to be "holding" the rest somehow from "unwrapping" from the mandrel - but maybe it ceases to be importand after
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Hello everyone, here is my second attempt for the light casting rod. Now I would like sth with moderate action, for small cranks and in-line-spinnerbaits. I have a Batson Enterprises blank again, this time Rainshadow RX7 IP842 (7'0" 1/4-1/2oz, up to 12 lb). I want to cut it from the bottom 6" to get the blank at 6'6"lenght. I wonder how such operation will affect blank p
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Jim, I don't want to interrupt your thread - please forgive me - but when I read discussion like this I have t say it once more: this forum is just awesome !!! Wow... I would like to add to Jim's question 'a little question of mine' reffering to striper guide size/placement ( I hope you don't mind Jim) - how should the line go through the stripper (casting rod situation) - should it go thro
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Harry, that is what I am going to do :) I know that many serious and renowned rodmakers reccomends spiral wrap, but - so far - I think that it is a bit contradictory with the straight line "doctrine". Straight means straight. So far it is hard to imagine for me that the line in spiral wrap will not curve, while in transition from up to the bottom . I have to give it a try !
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Gentlemen, one more thing if I may ask. Browsing this (superb!) forum I've frequently came across statement that line should go in a straight line through the guides (in casting rods). That every unnecessary contact, friction between the line and the guide causes line to speed down, even may lead to backslashes etc. In spiral wrap line is not straight as a preasumption. No matter I use &quo
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Thank you Harry, this "fly" guides ar actually single footed ceramics as you described, they are sometimes reffered to as "fly" maybe because of this single foot so I followed the pattern, in fact they are standard single foot guides. Well, of course I started with static method and that is how I ended up with 11 guides ;) all to prevent line scrub. To me, line scrub is
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It is my first post here, so first of all I would like to say: Hello Everyone :) I try to make a light/med-light casting rod. For this purpose I bought Batson Rainshadow RX7 ISB 781 blank ( 6'6", 1/8-3/8oz, 6-12 lb, one piece) and Fuji Alconite guides (BFAT #6 top, some #6 & #7 fly guides, #7 & #8 bridge guides, #10 & #12 two-foot guides). Now, I have to wrap this guides.
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