Jenn's site says, "Pacific Bay TiCh double foot fly rod snake guides are lightweight, flexible and strong. High, rounded arch design. Stainless steel wire is hard chrome plated then coated with titanium carbide for unmatched groove and corrosion resistance. Thus I presume the TiCh in the name refers to titanium and chromium. So I would conclude that 1) body of the guide is stainless ste
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...now if you are talking about a cane rod.
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Sad to hear, indeed. Every serious fly angler, and certainly all fly rod rod builders, shoudl read his Common Cents treatise. A huge contribution to the world of rod making. I found this informative obituary: Upon reading the obit it looks like a long life that was very well lived.
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Was making a 4-piece 9-foot fly rod. Found the spline on each section and marked with tape. For the upper 3 sections I wrapped the guides on the spline-marked side of the rod. I then discoverd that on the butt section I had epoxied the grip and reel seat so that the reel seat was wrong-side up -- 180 degrees off. Thus the butt section's spline is 180 degrees opposite the rest of the rod.
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I am not knocking Tenkara. If folks want to fish that way, all the power to them. Short skis, lone skis, fatties or thin, it is up the user. Rather than having standard fly gear and Tenkara gear, I think a hybrid approach is viable.
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I would say it doesn't. It is just a different method of fishing with a fly. Casting distance is of course limited. And in some ways the size fish you can catch is also limited. Tough to cover steelhead rivers or even the Yellowstone with Tenkara.
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You may want to look at Hook and Hackle, as they have several blanks from 6 - 7.5 feet, though I think they are 4 pc not 3.
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I think a glass rod would be just fine in the fishing circumstance you describe. Of course glass can be fished in any situation or line weight, but my personal opinion is that it is particularly suited to use is in smaller waters where rod weight or the need for bombing long casts is not a factor. But a nice double taper line on the rod and you may really like it.
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Fiber glass will feel much softer and slower in action than graphite. While there is nothing bad about that, it will not fish comparably to graphite. For a 3 or 4 weight for smaller streams and smaller fish it would be fine.
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Combo rod bad idea. Kind of like a carboat or carplane. Two different animals. 6 foot fly rod not worth much to anyone.
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Power to the people. I don't make enough rods to warrant a power wrapper, but I sure like the look of the speed.
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4. Fly rod guides should be tapered in a series of up to five decending sized guides.
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While my rod has a traditional wooden reel seat, the rest is all cobalt, including the thread which is nearly a total match with the blank. I put on dark single foot guides. I took the rod to a local fly shop to test drive a few fly lines. All the younger folks at ths shop loved the color. I am 64 but I think it is just fine. Here are few photos in an on line rod review that use that actua
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TRI-AH12MTR-CB You will have a very cobalt rod from top to bottom with that reel seat. I wrapped up this summer a 9ft. 5wt. Eternity2, but traditional wooden fly rod seat. People seem to love or hate the color of these blanks. I like the color and the rod. There are cobalt threads (Pro Wrap 455) available that match it quite well.
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I have the H&H Xi10' 3-wt. but have not wrapped it up yet. I do have an H&H Xi 9 ft. 5wt rod for general trout fishing and find it to be an extremely good rod for nymphing, so I have hope for the 3 wt. PacBay now has a 10' 9" Arctos in a 3-weight. As indicated above, CTS makes top-notch blanks.
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I would agree on 9ft. 5wt. Look for a sale on Batson Unity rods, PacBay Arctos, NFC (on sale now), Other options would be Rod Geeks Hook and Hackle rotates sales on Unity and Arctos every few weeks, and their in house Xi blanks are also good. There are plenty of blanks on @#$%& as well. Great buy on Diamondback blanks here:
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Reel seats with wooden spacers can be the most difficult. As Norman Miller indicated, sometimes a reel seat will just not want to loosen. Cutting them off without cutting into the blank can be tedious, but with patience it works. I've been there.
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You need to be very careful when heating carbon fiber or fiberglass. Next time you remove a reel seat, try the boil method, but get your water boiling, then put the real seat into the water for a minute, see if it loosens at all, then dip it in for another minute and check if it loosens. Continue in this mode. In this way you potentially do not overheat and more gradually try to build up to th
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Try this:
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Boiling in a careful manner has worked for me.
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Then of course comes the question ot do you affix the tip top with epoxy or with meltable tip top glue in case it ever breaks or cracks? I promote the latter approach.
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What is the size of the guide located closest to the tip top? You may want a proportional look. But as stated, the most important thiing is for knots to clear the tip top.
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It would not be a problem at all.
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My 2-cents is that single foot advantage is basically 1/2 the wraps. Individual preference if you think they look good or not on a fly rod. Virtally all OEM Euro Nymph rods are now using single foot. I can't say I see a special need on a nymph rod for single foot. My last rod was the first I did with single foot guides. It looks fine to me, granted less traditional. I guess one could make t
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As carbon based rod technology improves, the rods indeed get lighter and stronger, but the walls are also thinner. A tree branch, car door, a trip on the trail will still snap them quite nicely. As to glass or cane, they endure for many reasons. Certainly one reason is their slower action. While I enjoy many graphite rods, some of them are simply too fast in action for me. it is all personal
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The have some new graphene offerings, marketed as a resin treatment that is lighter and stronger. I wonder if it is marketing B.S. or an advancement?
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I would not bother to change them. I would buy a different blank and make another rod instead. Getting off the old epoxy and thread off the blank is tedious work and you can sometimes not get it all off or can affect the cosmetics of the blank.
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I have used this spacing on a 9 foot and it has worked just fine: Inches from tip: 4.5; 9.5; 15.25; 21.75; 29; 36.6; 44.75; 54; 64.5; 76 (total of 10) I used stripping guides in No. 12 and 10. Pac Bay suggested: 4; 9; 15; 22; 29.5; 37.5; 46.5; 56.5; 67; 78 (total of 10) In guide sizing, if you believe in tapering, then: 12-10-4-3-3-3-2-2-2-2 I would see no need for 11, just one
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A 9 foot rod will often have two stripping guides -- size 12 and size 10. There is no true standard, and whatever you prefer will likely do just fine.
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Redington and Cabela's tubes are around $25 - $30 and functional.
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