Dennis, there is a window on the bottom.
Forum: rodboard

I decided to build on the spine… I know this is highly debated topic but after checking and bending, over-and-over again, it just felt right.
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I plan to use this rod specifically for fishing chatterbaits so I won’t need the versatility of the adjustable butt. Taped up the handle and covered those weights. This 7’4 rod now floats in my hand! Feels like a much shorter rod now that its balanced.
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I usually don’t add lead weights to my rods. This one was just too tip heavy after dry fitting the components and I want this build to balance closer to horizontal during the retrieve.
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Has anyone ever used weight strips to balance a rod? I had these sitting around in my garage and figured they’d work fine for adding some more weight to the rear.
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I wanted to show y’all a pic of my current build and show how nice this Fuji SBPULSMPS17 reel seat is. The grips are NFC 3k soft touch and the rod is the NFC Fast Glass APFG745-1. The reel seat and grips have the same soft touch coating that feels like velvet in the hand.
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I use a NFC DS6107 (Delta) for neds, drop shot, and little swimbaits. I built as a spinning rod. It is good. The CCS I measured is… 396g AA=74.
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St. Croix legend tournament TBS71MF SCIV 589g AA = 75 ERN = 20
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Here’s some have… North fork All Purpose Fast Glass APFG745-1 684g AA = 74 ERN = 22 North fork DS 6107-1 (Delta LMX) 397g AA = 74 ERN = 15 North fork SJ 706-1 (IM) 816g AA = 79 ERN = 25 North fork MB 703-1 (Delta LMX) trimmed to 6’9 277g AA = 73 ERN = 12 North fork Hybrid CB 705 Zentron (Delta LMX) 1083g AA = 85 ERN = 31 Phenix Composite-X11 618 AA = 74 ERN = 20 American Tackle Bushido
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Spence, your right I looked it up. The PULS is what I’m getting in. The PULS plays on the same concept of moving the trigger back to give more room to palm the reel.
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My matte black PLS just made it to the states from Singapore!
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Really nice work!
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Rod geeks B468MMH or a NFC 703 Med Fast. I built both as casting rods and they are perfect jerkbait rods. The Rod geeks has more power, both have perfect action to work the bait and keep the fish hooked.
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I’ve been using similar bands from CRB for my last couple builds without issues. Lift the guide off the blank high enough not to scratch it. If the band falls off the foot, roll it back on. I’ll also use thin tape. To get ride of scratches you could try buffing with 2000 grit wet sandpaper… works on car clear coats.
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This guy A.Sava has one of the best looking finished rods I’ve seen.
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Split grips for most rods due to less reaming, placement flexibility, and less build time. If I build a rod with a 7” rear grip it’ll be full, split would look weird. If I want to stuff it under my arm for some reason, I prefer full for the bulk. If i build a boat rod for big fish and want to stuff the rod between the legs… full rear.
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The only Bashido I’ve bought was a CB68 medium and it’s under powered. I hooked a 3lb LM and I had zero leverage and had to wait until the bass ran out of gas to get it off the hook. The data shared here had it as a med-light and I’d agree. Not sure if all Bushido blanks are under powered but I wont buy another one. After buying a blank and parts just to find out I built a $200 crappie rod is di
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Check out the BB805, It’s rated to cover the 1-6oz and it’s mod-fast. I also prefer mod or mod-fast rods for large swimbaits and most treble hook baits.
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I’d go with the 3000 size It’ll cast further, better drags, and holds more line when needed. My 4 year old can cast and reel my stradic 3000 good, for being 4.
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Choke guides on a casting rod are commonly referred to as butt guides or even stripper guides… not uncommon to see.
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The choke guides are spaced as normal 19-21” from reel then the running guides are spaced to prevent the line from falling below the blank under load. Get 10 micros and space them 3” apart then move as needed during the static load test. May need more or less depending on results.
Forum: rodboard

I’d agree with Mr. Tim’s assessment. I built a Delta MB703-1 casting rod I use for small action-baits, little poppers, jerk-baits, lipless cranks, and 1/4oz chatter-baits. I rarely loose a fish once hooked and I dobt feel under powered reeling in 2-3lb largemouth. It’s a great blank and I would be comfortable using it for slot reds and trout. I also built a Hybrid CB705 rod it’s too bulky for m
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I use the KR concept. The links below may help for some learning.
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The kr-concept is fuji’s solution to all the issues people have with micro setups.
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Hahaha! Your right!
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For a 7’3” casting rod 8-6-4-4-4-4-4-4-4-4-4-4…
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I designed an “open box” design rod wrapper for you… i’m not going to patent this.
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Dido on the 703-1 it’s one of my fav’s for jerkbaits and poppers. I built as a casting rod and can cast 1/4oz baits easily. Delta blanks are good but for a drop shot go with an X-ray it’ll be more responsive.
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That quick 0 to 180 transition doesn’t sit well with me. There’s no way the line won’t rub the blank and if you do hook a 40 pound fish and its pealing braid across the blank with that much tension I don’t see how it wouldn’t saw into the blank. Epoxy isn’t very hard it can be sanded off a blank with little effect.
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