I do level the best i can.. And its barly out of center... I use prokote.. It was about 17 hrs. Not over 24.. This is the second coat.. I put as little on as possible, the first coat was not tacky anymore.. And the extra didnt show my finger print.. Think this could be the issue? Nkt waiting the full 24hrs?
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Its the first time ive had this issue.. I just let her spin on the 9rpm dryer... I dont have the time to rotate by hand today.. Or last night.. My problem is i always do the epoxy process verry late at night or before work (2nd shift) It's acually kinda odd.. It did it at the stripper guide, and the 3rd from the tip.. And crept up onto the tube for the tiptop.. I do epoxy 1/4 inch up the tube
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Ok, so i understand the rod has to be as level as possible for thread epoxy (or any leveling product for that matter) and i understand its the rod.. Not the platform... That should be level.. Basically counter for the taper... The rod im currently spinning has like an 1/8" tip and 1/2" butt.. How would you go about leveling the rod? Shim each support individually? Im assuming my iss
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The whole does not go all the way through.. Its ok though crisis averted.. I used a pair of dykes, with rubber covering the jaws.. Gently rocked back and forth a little, and used then to pinch and lift as you would do to remove a electrical staple.. Didnt cut the rod, came out smooth.. My bigger concern was slipping with just my fingers on the fiberglass.. I know i know... Im not a fan of gloves
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For removing the old piece, just remembered my dremil torch has a excellent heat gun attachment.. Thing sounds like a jet engine when you fire it up lol that should work.. Assuming the glue has a lower melting point then the plastic.. And im 90%sure it does...
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Wow, that was one thorough and well put together post roger... Thank you... I have 3 spare fiberglass tensioners on thier way... But will either do the piano wire (as i like to reverse) or figure something out... Like i said.. Ive been looking into diffrent options.. Thank you very much
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I sent you an email with 2 i redid
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Im mesing with some sort of rod atleast 5 hours a day.. My wife isnt happy about it.. But it is what it is.. I seem to really realy enjoy doing restorations.. I am currently spining a diawa for a friend.. Have 16hrs. Wrapped up in the whole project.. But man does it look good... I think im going to need 2 coats of epoxy on this one though... Stupid double feet guides... I have rebuilt/built proba
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Yeah.. Its amazing what logic can do.. Its 4am here.. Im not thinking very hard about this.. Thats a fair idea.. Im honestly ready for a diffent rig.. The CRB aluminium base plates with a power wrapper would be nice... I just cant see spending that kind of money for something so simple... But its time to start looking into a "more advanced" setup i think..
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I guess i could use anything really for a tensioner...all it has to do is resist i guess.. The threads are on a threaded rod with springs to keep tension on the spools.. Im not so sue using a solder iron would be suck a good idea.. The whole frame is plastic..
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I noticed this morning that the fiberglass rod looks like the neck of a porcupine.. I ordered another already, but theres 3 good splits... I cant see 3 form overnight from wear and tear.. I mean i do use the thing a heck of alot... I managed to finish the job i was doing, thankfully no issues... My question.. Hiw the heck am i going go get it out of there for the replacment? I would assume th
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My basic plan of attack is to let him have fun with it.. Put it this way, his art is good enough to me i let him permantly put in on my body.. I trust his judgment 100%
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Hes not going to use a tatoo gun my friend.. It will be a paint brush, or nib ???? But now you have my gears turning... Cork would be a good medium for a tat gun... Hmm... Also, if you put a super thick coating of thread epoxy down first, it would probably work.. Think about it this way.. Your skin is 7 layers thick... The ink only penetrates (as long as you have a good artist) about 3-5 lay
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With pleasure.. I was thinking of seeing if he was willing to do like 4 or 5 rods if this pans out well.. Talk about custom! I know he does commission work, but hes a really good friend.. I did a restoration of my grandfathers rod a few weeks ago... And he offerd to give the lettering a go.. I managed to do ok, so i didnt need hks handywork.. But im sure he will be all in.. Im just trying to get
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Herb, duly noted.. And i will definatly heed your advise.. As always.. Lynn.. Lol yes.. I now your opinion on it.. Lol but i had a customer order a 4oz bottle.. So i figure ill have quite a bit left over.. As for wiping sags.. It tends to get uneven when i try that.. I dont know if im working with it too long, or just fail.. Perma gloss has been good too me so far.. Lets hooe i dont eat those
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I have a test blank i plan on working with first... I really have to get a power wrapper, Just for applying thin coats of epoxy.. Kinda hard with 9rpm...
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Im thinking of having my tatoo artist do up a rod, then permagloss over it.. Im jjst nlt sure what inks/paints wont run or streak.. Dr. Martins ink is good, this i know.. Bjt what about acrylics? Or should they be alcohol or oil based? I would hate for him to do all that work and it get destroyed trying to protect it.. I have color perserver, but as with most rod building products the labeling is
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Wow.. Id say thats a really good idea.. Except there isnt a store i know of that sells rods of that stature.. Except fly shops.. The zillion series are upwards of 250+ (atleast with a quick search) But i might give that some serious thought
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I am a machinist you know... I can make anything work :)
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Anyone know where i can get one? Baitcaster.. The open gothic looking one.. I have some seriously sick ideas.. I just need to get my hands on a couple..
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I do have to agree.. I cant argue with that.. Not that i planned to.. Thanks for the input... You mentioned bamboo... ive been meaning to give bamboo a go.. Not sure if it's something i would really enjoy or not though.. I did have an inquiry about repairing one.. At this point i feel thats way out of my league.. But i did tell him i would take a look and if nothing else, lead him in the righ
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All ways discussed are good, and effective ways to achieve the same goal.. The nail knot approach isnt hard to get the tags inline though, just pull both in the opposite direction along the blank, both tag ends will end up alignd and tight.. I see what you guys are saying though.. The nail knot approach would be better suited for a trim band in the middle of nowwhere.. Like between guides.. For m
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Ok, yeah.. Exactly as i thought... I just glanced at the pictures so if this is in the article i appologize in advance.. A trick to keep the thread from rolling over itself for the trim band at the beginning kf the wrap (last half of the article) is to split a 1" piece of straw, put in around the blank, take your thread facing toward the handle laying it along the straw, wrap over the thr
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Hey guys, quick question.. Im redoing a Diawa for a friend.. The guides need to be rewrapped among other things.. There is black thread with a paint band at the begining and a quarter inch back on the blank sides of the guides (for double foot guids) What is the best way to make a 2 wrap, maybe 3 trim band in the beginning like that? Im assuming using a cut straw basically making a nail knot?
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I sent them an email via the contact page.. Thank you though..
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I have.. Thats the first place i looked.. Surprised its not availabe on thier site.. Ill contact them, just figured i would ask before bothering them if i missed something
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Ive looked online, cant find one.. Anyone know a link before i contact the manufacturer?
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I am definatly going to use thread.. You guys are right, it would just simply look better.. Next task, after finish sanding, is going to be the cork.. I sure hope i can bring it back to life.. Other then deep pitting... There really is only 1 gouge, im just afraid useing the filler js going to be blatantly obvious, and look like crap.. Heres a question.. How would u40 cork sealer work to stop
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Just giving an update.. Wow.. Thats a beautiful blank now that the top half is sanded.. Its amazing what a little bit of care can do to something
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lol hit a snag about 3 minutes into stripping the guides.. what is an acceptable paint to use on rod blanks? after permagloss, before prokote... the trim bands are gold paint.. fooled me
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